F 

87 

.B6 

L78 

1893 


Livermore , Samuel  T 
Block  Island 


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Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2015 


https://archive.org/details/blockisland01live 


BLOCK  ISLAND 


I.  A MAP  AND  GUIDE. 

II.  A HISTORY  (Abridged). 


REV.  S.  T.  LIVERMORE,  A.  M. 


REVISED  AND  ENLARGED. 


BOSTON,  MASS.: 
Pbess  of  L.  Babta  & Co. 
1893. 


Copyrighted 
By  S.  T LIVERMORE, 
1383. 


u7?o  B 


INDEX. 


Page. 

Page 

Aborigines,  .... 

47 

Grove  Point, 

26 

Arrests,  .... 

60 

Golden  Grove — brig, 

. 100 

Bay,  Block  Island, 

42 

Harbor, 

. 20 

Bathing  Beach, 

31 

Harbor  Hill, 

. 22 

Breach,  The, 

42 

Harbors, 

. 75 

Briton’s  Rock, 

41 

Harbor  Pond, 

. 36 

Beacon  Hill, 

24 

Hostilities,  . 

. 52 

Block  Island  Sound, 

41 

“ Indian, 

. 53 

“ French, 

. 55 

Cemetery,  The,  . 

30 

“ English, 

. 53 

Centre,  The, 

22 

Hotels, 

9 

Cow  Cove,  .... 

41 

Clay  Head,  .... 

26 

Inhabitants,  . 

50 

Churches,  .... 

120 

Indian-Head  Neck, 

. 27 

Charlestown  Wreck — poetry, 

114 

Life  Saving  Stations, 

12 

Chagum  Pond, 

34 

Light  Houses, 

9 

Call,  Eirst  Minister’s,  . 

121 

Library, 

. 119 

Chapel,  .... 

125 

Legends, 

. 88 

Danielson,  G.  W. — steamer, 

12 

Location, 

. 46 

Dorry’s  Cove, 

43 

Meeting  Houses,  . 

. 123 

Discovery,  . . . . 

46 

Mohegan  Bluffs,  . 

. 23 

Dancing  Mortar,  . 

89 

Mails,  . 

13 

Eort  Island,  .... 

28 

Mortar, 

. 89 

Fog  Signal,  .... 

11 

Mill  Pond,  . 

. 37 

Fresh  Pond, .... 

34 

Middle  Pond, 

. 35 

Fisheries,  . . . . 

65 

Moluncus — brig,  . 

. 82 

French,  The, 

55 

Messer,  Laura  E., 

. 85 

Mays,  The,  . 

. 84 

Grace’s  Cove, 

43 

Great  Pond, 

32 

Names  of  the  Island, 

. 48 

Greene,  Gen.  Nath’l,  . 

65 

(3) 

4 


INDEX. 


Page. 

Page. 

Old  Harbor,  . . . 42 

1 Sound,  Block  Island,  . 

. 41 

Signal  Station, 

. 14 

Phrases,  Sailor,  . . . 74 

Schools, 

. 119 

President  Grant’s  Visit,  . 120 

Sands  Pond, 

. 34 

Phantom  Ship,  . . . 10G 

Surface, 

. 49 

Palatine  Legend,  ...  92 

Springs, 

. 38 

Poetry,  . . . .106 

Steamer,  First, 

12 

Pleasure  Fishing,  . . .38 

Products,  ....  49 

Tempest,  Sudden, 

. 71 

Possession,  ....  57 

Trimm’s  Pond, 

. 37 

Petition  to  It.  I.  Assembly,  . 57 

Palmer,  Rev.  A G.,  D.D.,  . 106 

Whittier, 

. 101 

Willey,  Dr., 

. 96 

Revolutionary,  ...  58 

Wrecks, 

. 78 

Refugees,  . . . .61 

Wrecking,  . 

. 84 

War  of  1812, 

. 63 

Sandy  Hill,  . . . .25 

Whales, 

. 73 

Sandy  Point,  . . . 26  | 

Warrior,  wrecked. 

. 80 

Settlers,  landing  of,  . . 48 1 

Williams,  Roger, 

. 120 

SUPPLEMENTARY  INDEX. 

Revised  Map, 

7-8 

Local  Distances,  . 

133-4 

Quotation  from  Dana, 

10| 

Distances  from  B.  I., 

135-7 

Block  Island  Cottages, 

44-5 

Mails,  .... 

137 

Episcopal  Chapel, 

125-6 

Secret  Societies,  . 

137 

The  Inlet,  . 

132 

Wharf  Improved, 

137 

Recent  Wrecks,  . 

132-3 

Average  Temperature, 

137 

PREFACE. 


The  object  of  this  book  is  to  answer  the  rapidly  increas- 
ing inquiries  concerning  Block  Island.  To  do  this  special 
effort  has  been  made  to  have  the  map  and  the  guide  ac- 
curate and  instructive  to  strangers.  Its  historical  and  le- 
gendary part,  it  is  believed,  will  furnish  instruction  and 
amusement  enough  to  compensate  the  reader  for  the  price 
paid  for  the  Map,  Guide,  and  History. 

If  the  author  is  correct  in  these  estimates,  there  is  good 
reason  for  his  expectation  of  a double  rewTard  for  his  labor, 
first  in  the  hope  of  benefiting  and  pleasing  the  public,  and 
secondly  in  obtaining  from  them  a liberal  patronage. 

Believing  that  all  things  are  given  us  “ richly  to  enjoy,” 
and  that  those  are  happiest  who  do  the  most  to  make  others 
happy,  the  writer  anticipates  much  from  the  conviction  that 
this  little  book  will  guide  many  to  one  „of  the  most  attrac- 
tive sources  of  health,  rest,  and  pleasure  that  can  be  found 
upon  the  coast  of  the  Atlantic.  After  a residence  upon 
Block  Island  of  four  winters  and  three  summers,  he  has 
here  given  some  of  the  results  of  his  study  of  old  authentic 
records,  and  of  careful  observation,  much  of  which  is  taken 
from  his  History  of  Block  Island  published  in  1877,  and 
now  nearly  out  of  print. 

As  sc  much  of  that  history  is  here  incorporated  the  fol- 
lowing notice,  as  a sample  of  many  others,  is  taken  from 
the  Woonsocket  Patriot  of  March,  1881. 

“ A History  of  Block  Island  from  its  discovery  in  15  24  to 
the  present  time  ; by'Rev.  S.  T.  Livermore,  A.M. 


6 


PREFACE. 


“ The  growing  popularity  of  Block  Island  as  a place  of 
summer  resort  makes  a good  history  of  that  Island  desira- 
ble at  this  time.  A perusal  of  the  above-named  book  will 
convince  the  reader  that  the  author  has  been  thorough  and 
painstaking  in  the  investigation  of  old  records  and  collect- 
ing of  other  material  for  the  work,  and  a halo  of  interest 
is  thrown  around  the  Island,  such  as  no  visit  to  its  shores 
or  legend  of  the  ‘ Fire  Ship  ’ can  awaken  in  the  mind  of 
the  visitor  unaided  by  this  faithful  and  highly  interesting 
account  of  this  attractive  “ sea-girt  isle.”  Do  you  contem- 
plate a visit  to  Block  Island?  Take  this  book  with  you.” 
Criticisms  and  suggestions  for  the  improvement  of  future 
editions  will  be  thankfully  received. 

S.  T.  LIVERMORE. 

. Bridgewater,  Mass., 

April,  1S82. 


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The  Island  lies  nine  leagues  away, 

Along  its  solitary  shore, 

Of  craggy  rock  and  sandy  bay, 

No  sound  but  ocean’s  roar, 

Save  where  the  bold,  wild  sea-bird  makes  her  home, 
Her  shrill  cry  coming  through  the  sparkling  foam. 


NEAR  THE  HARBOR.  . 


But  when  the  light  winds  lie  at  rest, 

And  on  the  glassy,  heaving  sea, 

The  black  duck,  with  her  glossy  breast, 

Sits  swinging  silently, 

How  beautiful!  No  ripples  break  the  reach, 

And  silvery  waves  go  noiseless  up  the  beach. 

— II.  II.  Dana. 


BLOCK  ISLAND. 


HOTELS. 

The  first  hotel  for  hoarders  from  abroad  was  opened  in 
1842  by  Mr.  Alfred  Card , one  hundred  and  eighty  years 
from  the  first  settlement  by  sixteen  families.  It  stood 
where  the  Adrian  House  is  now  located.  There  Mr.  Card 
“set  the  first  excursion  table  for  boarders  of  pleasure” 
ever  furnished  on  the  Island.  His  first  party  consisted  of 
seven  men  from  Newport,  one  of  whom  was  Mr.  Van 
Buren.  They  remained  two  days,  and  “ they  were  the  first 
party  that  ever  employed,  at  Block  Island,  a boat  and  boat- 
men to  carry  them  a fishing.”  Mr.  Card  says,  — “ John 
L.  Mitchell  and  Samuel  W\  Bose  carried  them  out.” 

Fifteen  years  afterwards,  in  1857,  there  were  three  hotels 
for  the  accommodation  of  visitors  and  boarders.  These 
would  lodge  about  one  hundred.  Since  then  they  have  in- 
creased in  number  and  capacity  until  Block  Island,  as  a 
summer  resort,  ranks  among  the  first  in  popularity  on  the 
coast  of  the  Atlantic. 

LIGHT  HOUSES. 

The  first  Light  House  on  Block  Island  was  located  on 
Sandy  Point,  the  northerly  extremity,  and  was  erected  by 
the  Government  in  the  year  1829.  Its  keeper  was  William 
Weeden,  previously  of  Jamestown,  R.  I.  It  was  serviceable 
less  than  ten  years. 

The  second  light-house  was  built  upon  the  same  point,  in 
1837.  It  was  a substantial  building,  located  in  a less  ex- 


10 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


posed  position  than  was  the  first,  farther  inland.  It  had 
two  towers,  and  its  lights  were  exposed  from  them  by  par- 
abolic reflectors.  Mr.  W.  A.  Weeden  was  its  keeper  until 
1839,  when  he  resigned  and  was  succeeded  by  Mr.  Simeon 
Babcock,  who  was  succeeded  in  1841  by  Mr.  Edward  Mott 
by  appointment  of  President  Harrison.  This  house  served 
about  twenty  years. 

The  third  liglit-house  was  erected  on  the  point  in  1857, 
was  kept  by  Mr.  E.  Mott.  This  house  stood  the  storms 
about  ten  years  only.  These  three  houses,  all  built  within 
thirty  years,  were  rendered  useless  by  the  shifting  sands 
on  which  they  were  located. 

The  fourth  light-house,  and  the  one  now  in  use  on  Sandy 
Point,  was  built  in  1867.  It  is  stone,  well  built,  and  pro- 
tected so  as  to  give  promise  of  long  and  valuable  service. 
Mr.  Hiram  D.  Ball,  brother  of  the  proprietor  of  the  Ocean 
View  Hotel  on  the  Island  has  kept  the  lights  on  the  Point 
since  1861,  then  appointed  by  President  Lincoln. 

This  last  light-house  is  a favorite  resort  of  visitors  who 
reach  it  by  the  Neck  Road  from  the  Harbor,  and  by  Main 
Street  and  Cemetery  Street. 

The  new  light-liouse  is  situated  on  the  south-east  corner  of 
the  Island  which  is  triangular  in  form,  as  described  by  its 
first  discoverer  in  1524.  At  that  angle  the  land  is  elevated, 
and  the  light  conspicuous  far  at  sea.  It  stands  on  a bluff  one 
hundred  and  twenty-feet  above  mean  low-water.  Its  lant- 
ern is  fifty-two  feet  above  the  ground,  and  two  hundred  and 
four  feet  above  the  sea.  It  is  of  brick,  and  was  erected  in 
the  summer  of  1874  by  Mr.  L.  H.  Tynan,  of  Staten  Island,  at 
a cost  of  $75,000.  The  glass  of  the  lantern  cost  the  Govern- 
ment $10,000,  and  consists  mainly  of  prismatic  lenses 
scientifically  arranged  to  produce  the  best  effect.  Six  per- 
sons at  the  same  time  can  stand  within  this  lantern.  It  has 
been  seen  thirty-five  miles,  and  was  first  lighted  February 


THE  FOG  SIGNAL. 


11 


1,  1875.  It  consumes  one  thousand  gallons  of  oil  annually, 
burning  four  circular  wicks,  one  within  another,  the  largest 
about  three  and  a half  inches  in  diameter,  the  least  seven- 
eighths  inches  in  diameter. 

Aside  from  the  attractions  of  the  new  light-house  itself, 
whose  first  keeper  was  Mr.  H.  W.  Clark,  whose  courtesy 
to  thousands  of  visitors  is  remembered  with  pleasure,  the 
landscape  scenery  there,  and  while  going  and  coming,  and 
the  extensive  view  out  upon  the  ocean  well  repay  the  visit- 
ors. The  route  there  from  the  harbor  is  southerly,  up  High 
Street  and  by  Hodge  Street  nearly  to  Sands  Pond,  thence 
easterly  by  cart  track  and  gates  across  several  farms.  Dis- 
tance from  the  harbor  about  three  miles,  and  a good  road 
most  of  the  way.  The  light-house  stands  near  the  place 
where  the  Mohegan  captives  were  starved  by  the  Mani- 
seans,  long  before  the  Island  was  settled  by  the  English. 
There  Mr.  Clark  has  charge  of  the  Light,  the  Fog  Signal, 
and  the  Storm  Signals. 

THE  FOG  SIGNAL. 

This,  as  well  as  the  light-houses  and  life-saving  stations, 
is  a Government  institution,  and  is  connected  with  the  new 
light-house,  separated  from  it  about  one  hundred  feet.  It  is 
under  the  superintendence  of  the  keeper  of  the  light-house, 
and  is  blown  to  warn,  mariners  to  avoid  the  Island  in  fogs 
and  storms  when  the  light  is  of  little  avail.  It  is  sounded 
by  the  steam  of  a four -horse  power  engine,  two  of  such 
being  kept  in  readiness  for  service.  The  sound  is  made  in 
immense  trumpets,  directed  towards  the  sea,  seventeen  feet 
long,  of  cast  metal.  The  trumpet  does  not  make,  but 
directs  the  sound  which  originates  from  the  siren,  or  buzz 
in  the  small  end  of  the  trumpet,  the  larger  end  of  which 
is  about  five  feet  in  diameter.  The  siren,  made  of  brass, 
strong,  is  struck  by  the  current  of  steam  and  made  to  re- 
volve with  so  great  velocity  as  to  make  the  sound  that  goes 


12 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


out  through  the  fogs  and  storms  over  the  sea  to  warn  the 
mariner  of  his  approach  to  danger.  Whoever  stands  near 
that  fog-horn  when  sounding  will  not  he  surprised  that 
ships  are  frightened  away.  It  once  made  a deaf  mute 
jump  and  run  for  dear  life. 

LIFE-SAVING  STATIONS. 

Two  of  these  are  upon  the  Island,  one  at  the  harbor,  and 
the  other  at  Cooneymus,  on  the  west  side.  The  former 
was  established  in  1872,  at  an  expense  of  about  $2,000, 
including  “gear,”  and  the  latter  at  greater  expense  was 
erected  in  1874.  Each  accommodates  seven  expert  sailors, 
one  of  them  being  captain,  and  they  patrol  the  shores  each 
night  through  the  winter,  watching  for  vessels  in  distress. 
These  stations  are  furnished  with  cooking-stoves,  tables, 
dormitories,  beds,  and  the  best  modern  appliances  for  sav- 
ing those  in  peril,  on  the  sea,  near  the  shore.  Annual  ex- 
pense about  $3,000. 

FIRST  STEAMER. 

The  first  permanent  Block  Island  steamer,  the  George  W. 
Danielson,  built  by  the  Block  Island  Steamboat  Company,  was 
launched  at  Mystic,  Conn.,  in  May,  1880.  Her  first  trip 
on  her  regular  line  from  Block  Island  to  Newport  and 
Providence  was  made  June  15,  1880,  and  it  was  one  of  the 
great  events  of  the  Island  when  she  took  the  place  of  the 
Island  schooners  and  of  the  frail  masted  open  boats  in 
which  passengers  were  exposed  to  all  sorts  of  weather,  to 
head  winds  and  to  calms.  She  was  built  with  special  re- 
ference to  the  heavy  seas  of  winter  and  the  comfort  of 
pleasure-seekers  in  summer.  She  has  proved  herself  very 
staunch  and  convenient.  Her  masts  not  only  add  to  her 
speed,  but  are  a means  of  safety  in  case  of  failure  in  her 
machinery.  She  is  manned  by  the  best  of  sailors.  Her 
commander,  Captain  George  W.  Conley,  a Christian  gen- 


THE  MAILS  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


13 


tleinan  of  great  experience  at  sea,  formerly  master  of  a 
first-class  coaster,  is  cautious,  brave,  and  strictly  tem- 
perate. No  better  man  could  be  found  for  his  position. 

In  1885,  mostly  in  the  summer,  the  G.  W.  Danielson 
carried  about  10,000  passengers.  She  carries  the  mail 
between  Providence,  Newport,  and  Block  Island. 

THE  MAILS  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 

One  hundred  and  seventy  years  after  Block  Island  was 
colonized  by  settlers  from  Massachusetts  its  first  regular 
mail  was  established.  Previous  to  that  letters  reached  its 
inhabitants  through  the  post-office  at  Newport,  and  the 
letters  from  the  Island  were  mailed  at  various  places  visited 
by  the  Islanders  while  marketing  their  fish  and  produce. 
Their  first  post-master,  William  L.  Wriglit , was  appointed 
December  13,  1832,  and  his  office  was  his  bed-room.  From 
that  date  up  to  1876  the  arrival  of  the  mail  was  the  great 
event  of  the  Island.  Then  news  by  letters  and  papers  was 
fresh  “from  America.”  As  the  mail  was  opened  a circle 
of  faces  gathered  around,  and  by  a custom  kept  up  more 
than  forty  years  the  whole  Island  was  duly  informed  of  the 
arrival  of  each  letter,  whether  of  love  or  business.  F or  the 
postmaster  proclaimed  to  the  anxious  listeners  the  name  of 
each  person  addressed,  and  his  hearers  from  all  parts  of 
the  Island  carried  home  and  reported  the  news  of  the  last 
arrivals.  It  was  customary  for  one  neighbor  to  answer 
for  several  others  who  were  absent  from  the  calls  of  the 
postmaster  at  the  distribution. 

The  first  contractor  for  carrying  the  Block  Island  mail 
was  Captain  Samuel  W.  Rose,  on  a salary  of  $416  a year, 
leaving  the  Island  on  Wednesday  morning  at  eight  o’clock, 


14 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


and  returning  from  Newport  at  the  same  hour  on  Thurs- 
day. Captain  Rose  was  succeeded  by  his  son  Captain  John 
E.  Rose,  who,  rather  than  be  underbid  by  his  competitor, 
contracted  to  carry  the  mail  to  Newport  for  one  cent  a year, 
and  after  four  years  of  faithful  service  to  the  Government 
he  had  received  only  one  cent  of  the  four  due,  and  that  one 
was  paid  by  a Providence  gentleman  who  wanted  the  honor 
of  paying  from  his  own  pocket  the  whole  expense  of  carry- 
ing the  Block  Island  mail  one  year.  Now,  in  summer, 
the  mails  are  daily,  and  part  of  the  time  several  each  day, 
and  the  Islanders,  by  their  own  steamer  and  telegraph,  are 
thoroughly  identified  with  other  nations. 

THE  SIGNAL  STATION. 

This,  like  the  Wolf  Head  Light  off  Land’s  End,  has  con- 
verted a place  of  former  disaster  into  a means  of  safety. 
That  light  is  founded  upon  a sunken  rock  which  rises  in 
deep  water  like  a tower  to  the  surface  in  low  tide,  and  for 
centuries  was  the  terror  of  all  navigators  of  the  English 
Channel.  Now  it  supports  the  most  valuable  beacon  of  the 
channel.  So  Block  Island,  on  which  hosts  of  wrecks  have 
occurred,  now  atones  for  her  past  offences  by  displaying 
signals  of  warning  to  the  vast  processions  of  vessels  almost 
constantly  in  sight  of  her  shores. 

The  establishment  of  this  station  was  an  event  of  so 
much  importance  to  the  public  and  to  the  Island  that  a re- 
cord of  its  incipient  steps  is  here  deemed  appropriate,  the 
enterprise,  like  that  of  securing  the  Breakwater  and  the 
Life  Saving  Stations,  and  the  New  Light-House,  originat- 
ing on  the  Island. 

The  following  letter,  with  accompanying  petition,  was  for- 
warded to  various  commercial  houses  and  cities  along  the 
Atlantic  coast,  and  to  the  Chamber  of  Commerce,  New 
York,  besides  to  various  boards  of  trade  : — 


THE  SIGNAL  STATION. 


15 


Block  Island,  R.  I.,  Oct.  20,  1875. 

I wish  to  call  your  attention  to  the  benefits  to  be  derived 
from  a Signal  Station  located  upon  this  Island. 

The  Station  would  probably  be  where  the  New  Light  now 
is,  upon  the  southern  bluffs  of  the  Island.  There  are  fre- 
quently 200  sail  of  vessels  passing  near  these  bluffs  at  one 
time,  and  there  is  no  place  on  our  whole  Atlantic  coast  more 
exposed,  or  where  the  signal  of  foul  or  fair  weather  would 
be  greeted  by  so  many  vessels. 

The  cable,  necessarily  connected  with  it,  might  be  used, 
in  addition  to  its  regular  despatches,  for  the  purpose  of 
telegraphing  news  of  vessels  bound  in  or  out,  wrecks  or 
disabled  vessels,  and  such  other  news  as  would  be  of  na- 
tional interest.  It  also  would  be  of  local  value,  so  much  so 
as  to  probably  be  self-sustaining. 

Again  : Since  the  Government  Breakwater  has  been  con- 
structed, the  fishing  interests  have  grown  largely,  so  that 
during  the  fishing  seasons  of  Spring  and  Autumn,  a hund- 
red or  more  fishing  crafts  are  about  the  Island.  To  them 
the  Signal  would  be  of  great  value. 

In  view  of  the  above  facts,  will  you  please  take  some  in- 
terest in  having  the  inclosed  petition  signed  by  the  com- 
mercial men  in  your  city  and  then  forward  it  directly  to 
the  Representative  in  Congress  for  your  district  ? 

Respectfully  yours, 

NICHOLAS  BALL. 

To  the  Honorable  the  Senate  and  House  of  Representatives  in 
Congress  assembled. 

We,  the  undersigned,  who  have  a special  interest  in  the 
shipping  business  transacted  along  the  whole  Atlantic 
Coast,  do  hereby  petition  the  Honorable  Senate  and  House 
of  Representatives  of  the  United  States  for  the  establish- 
ment of  a Signal  Station  on  Block  Island,  to  be  connected 
with  the  main  shore  by  a telegraphic  cable. 

The  cost  of  such  a station  and  cable  would  be  but  little 
compared  with  their  great  importance  to  the  commerce  of 
the  country  ; and  we  are  assured  that  their  necessity  has 
already  been  recognized  by  various  officials  of  the  Govern- 
ment, among  whom  may  be  mentioned  the  distinguished 
President  of  the  Light  House  Board,  Professor  Joseph 
Henry. 


16 


HISTORY  OP  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


Chamber  of  Commerce  of  the  State  of  New  York, 
New  York,  Nov.  5,  1875. 

Nicholas  Ball,  Esq., — 

Dear  Sir , — Your  note  of  the  20th  ult.,  with  the  enclosed 
Memorial  to  Congress  in  regard  to  the  establishment  of  a 
Signal  Station  on  Block  Island,  was  submitted  to  the  Cham- 
ber of  Commerce  at  its  meeting  yesterday,  and  referred  for 
report  to  its  Committee  on  Commerce  and  Revenue  Laws. 

Your  obedient  servant, 

GEORGE  WILSON,  Secretary 

Chamber  of  Commerce  of  the  State  of  New  York, 
New  York,  Dec.  7,  1875. 

Dear  Sir , — The  petition  to  Congress  for  the  establish- 
ment of  a Signal  Station  on  Block  Island  was  unanimously 
approved  by  the  Chamber  of  Commerce,  at  its  meeting  on 
Thursday  last,  and  ordered  to  be  transmitted  to  that  body. 

In  addition  to  the  signature  of  the  President  of  the 
Chamber  to  the  petition,  we  have  obtained  the  names  of  the 
Presidents  of  all  the  Marine  Insurance  Companies  of  this 
city,  and  of  the  leading  shipping  merchants  engaged  in  the 
eastern  trade. 

Y our  obedient  servant, 

GEORGE  WILSON,  Secretary. 

Nicholas  Ball,  Esq. 

Chamber  of  Commerce  of  the  State  of  New  York, 
New  York,  Dec.  10,  1875. 

Dear  Sir.  — In  response  to  your  request  of  the  6th  inst., 
I enclose  herewith  a copy  of  the  proceedings  of  the  Cham- 
ber at  a meeting  held  on  the  2d  inst.,  relative  to  the  estab- 
lishment of  a Signal  Station  on  Block  Island. 

Your  obedient  servant, 

GEORGE  WILSON,  Secretary. 


Nicholas  Ball,  Esq. 


THE  SIGNAL  STATION. 


17 


Extract  from  proceedings  of  the  Chamber  of  Commerce, 
New  York,  at  its  monthly  meeting,  held  December  2, 
1875  : — 

The  regular  monthly  meeting  of  the  Chamber  of  Com- 
merce was  held  Thursday,  Dec.  2,  1875,  at  one  o’clock, 
p.m.,  at  the  rooms  of  the  Chamber,  No.  63  William  St. 
Present  : Samuel  D.  Babcock,  Esq.,  and  a quorum  of 
members. 

^ ^ ^ ^ ^ 

Mr.  James  W.  Elwell,  Chairman  of  the  Committee  on 
Foreign  Commerce  and  the  Revenue  Laws,  to  whom  was 
referred  at  the  last  meeting  of  the  Chamber  the  communi- 
cation of  Mr.  Nicholas  Ball,  with  the  accompanying  petition 
to  Congress  for  the  establishment  of  a Signal  (Station  on 
Block  Island,  submitted  a report  on  the  subject,  which  was 
unanimously  adopted  and  ordered  to  be  placed  on  file,  and 
the  petition  forwarded  to  Congress  as  recommended  by  the 
Committee. 

[Attest.]  GEORGE  WILSON,  Secretary. 

(A  copy  of  the  Report  and  Memorial  are  appended  herewith .) 
To  the  Chamber  of  Commerce : 

Your  Committee  on  Foreign  Commerce  and  the  Revenue 
Laws,  to  whom  was  referred  for  consideration  at  the  last 
meeting  of  the  Chamber  the  communication  of  Mr.  Nicho- 
las Ball,  with  the  accompanying  petition  to  Congress  for  the 
establishment  of  a Signal  Station  on  Block  Island,  beg  leave 
to  report,  — 

That  the  subject  has  received  their  careful  attention,  and 
the  Committee  are  of  the  opinion  that  the  establishment  of 
such  Signal  Station  is  a necessity,  and  would  be  of  great 
benefit  to  the  commerce  of  the  country.  The  Committee, 
in  response  to  the  request  of  Mr.  Ball,  have  obtained  the 
signatures  of  the  President  of  the  Chamber,  the  Presidents 
of  all  the  Marine  Insurance  Companies,  and  of  the  principal 
shipping  houses  of  the  city,  to  the  petition  which  they  now 
submit  for  approval  and  presentation  to  Congress. 

JAMES  W.  ELWELL,  Chairman. 
New  York,  Dec.  1,  1875. 

[A  true  copy.]  GEORGE  WILSON,  Secretary. 


18 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


THE  CHAMBER  OF  COMMERCE 

OF  THE  STATE  OF  NEW  YORK, 

By  Samuel  D.  Babcock,  President. 
JOHN  D.  JONES, 

Pres.  Atlantic  Mutual  Ins.  Co. 

F.  S.  LATHROP, 

Pres.  Union  Mutual  Ins.  Co. 

F.  B.  BLEECKEK,  Jr., 

V.  P.  New  York  Mutual  Ins.  Co. 
ALFRED  OGDEN, 

V.  P.  Orient  Mutual  Ins.  Co. 

ALEX.  MACKAY, 

V.  P.  Gnat  Western  Ins.  Co. 

J.  P.  PAULISON, 

Pres.  Sun  Mutual  Ins.  Co. 

JNO.  K.  MYERS, 

Pres.  Pacific  Mutual  Ins.  Co. 

DANIEL  DRAKE  SMITH, 

Pres.  Commercial  Mutual  Ins.  Co. 

EL  WOOD  WALTER, 

Pres.  Mercantile  Mutual  Ins.  Co. 

JAS.  W.  EL  WELL  & CO., 

Shipping  Agents  and  Owners. 

MURRAY,  FERRIS  & CO., 

Aqls.  N.  Y Sp  Sav.,  Nas.  Prov.  Lines. 
SNOW  & BURGESS, 

Agents  Sp  Owners. 

OELRICKS  & CO., 

Agents  Bremen  Line. 

BORDEN '&  LOVELL, 

New  York. 

OLD  COLONY  STEAMBOAT  CO., 
per  Borden  Sp  Lovell,  New  York. 

FALL  RIVER  PROPELLER  LINE, 

Geo.  Ketchani,  Agent. 

R.  LOWDEN, 

Agent  Black  Star  Line  of  Steamships. 

[A  true  copy.]  GEORGE  WILSON,  Secretary. 

Office  of  the  Boston  & Philadelphia  Steamships, 
Boston,  Dec.  29,  1875. 

Mr.  Nicholas  Ball,. — - 

Dear  Sir,  — Yours  of  the  27th  received.  The  petition 
which  you  sent  me  has  been  signed  by  the  agents  of  our 
Southern  coastwise  steam  lines,  and  nearly  all  our  Marine 
Insurance  companies. 

Yours  truly, 

E.  B.  SAMPSON,  Agent. 


THE  SIGNAL  STATION. 


19 


Washington,  D.  C.,  Nov.  24,  1875. 

Me.  Nicholas  Ball,  — 

Sir,  — Your  papers  relating  to  the  establishment  of  a 
Signal  Service  Station  on  Block  Island  having  been  referred 
to  me,  I will  be  glad  to  have  you  furnish  me  with  a map  or 
drawing  showing  in  detail  the  position  of  the  Island  to  the 
main  land,  and  the  various  distances,  so  that  lean  calculate 
the  amount  of  cable  required  to  connect  them. 

Y ery  respectfully, 

H.  H.  C.  DUN  WOODY, 

1st  Lieut.  Fourth  XJ.  S.  Artillery. 
Office  of  Chief  Signal  Officer  A.  S.  0., 

Washington. 

Office  of  the  Chief  Signal  Officee, 
Washington,  D.  C.,  Nov.  29,  1875. 

Mb.  Nicholas  Ball,  — 

Sir,  — Your  communication  relative  to  the  establishment 
of  a Cautionary  Signal  Station  at  Block  Island  has  been 
carefully  considered  by  the  Chief  Signal  Officer,  who  directs 
me  to  say  that  he  regards  the  location  as  one  which  would 
doubtless  prove  of  particular  value  as  a Signal  Station  to 
both  the  shipping  interests  and  the  Signal  Service. 

The  Charts  showing  the  coast  line  in  the  vicinity  of 
Block  Island  have  been  examined  with  a view  of  supplying 
you  with  an  approximate  estimate  of  the  expense  of  secur- 
ing telegraphic  communication  with  the  Island.  The  near, 
est  direct  line  to  the  main  land  passes  from  the  north  ex- 
tremity of  the  Island  to  a point  about  midway  between 
Judith  Point  and  Noys  Point,  a distance  a little  less  than 
ten  miles.  From  cable  landing  to  the  railroad,  where  it  is 
presumed  telegraphic  connection  may  be  made,  is  about 
five  miles  more,  and  with  the  five  miles  of  wire  on  the 
Island,  will  require  for  the  entire  line,  ten  miles  of  cable 
at  $1000  per  mile,  and  say,  twelve  miles  of  wire  at  from 
$100  to  $150  per  mile. 

Very  respectfully, 

H.  H.  C.  DUN  WOODY, 

Lieut.  A.  S.  O.  and  Asst. 


20 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


The  desired  appropriation  of  $15,000  was  made  by 
Congress  Dec.  19,  1879,  and  the  cable  was  laid  April  25, 
1880,  superintended  by  Lieut.  James  A.  Swift,  of  the 
Signal  Service,  at  the  conclusion  of  which  the  Hon.  Nicho- 
las Ball  delivered  a brief  and  appropriate  address  to  his  fel- 
low townsmen.  Sergt.  W m.  Davis,  of  the  Signal  Corps  U. 
S.  A.,  arrived  upon  the  Island  July  7th  under  orders  from 
the  Department  to  establish  a full  Meteorological  Station, 
and  on  the  18th  of  July  opened  direct  communication  with 
Point  Judith  and  Narragansett  Pier,  R.  I.  His  first  message 
was  sent  to  Providence  by  Mr.  C.  E.  Perry  of  the  Island, 
and  the  first  one  received  was  from  Capt.  John  E.  Rose, 
also  an  Islander  then  at  Narragansett  Pier.  The  office  was 
opened  in  the  store  of  Mr.  J.  T.  Dodge,  at  the  Harbor.  On 
the  first  of  Sept.,  1880,  Sergt.  Davis  began  taking  and  send- 
ing weather  observations  to  the  Department  at  Washington, 
D.  C.  On  the  11th  of  March,  1881,  the  Block  Island  cable 
parted  — cause  unknown. 

This  Station  displays  its  Signals  on  Harbor  Hill,  and  at 
the  New  Light  House,  with  which  it  has  connection  by 
telephone,  and  also  with  the  Life  Saving  Station  at  the 
Harbor. 

This  telegraphic  communication  is  of  great  value  to  sum- 
mer guests,  especially  to  business  men,  who  can  now  regu- 
late their  visits  by  their  knowledge  of  daily  affairs  at  home. 
Yachting  parties  and  all  classes  now  can  report  arrivals  and 
departures  and  other  matters  without  delay. 

THE  HARBOR. 

This  is  to  Block  Island  what  Liverpool  is  to  England. 
It  is  almost  a village.  Here  for  centuries  the  treasures  of 
the  deep  have  been  landed  for  the  support  of  successive 
generations  of  the  inhabitants.  Here  the  old  fishermen 
look  with  tearful  eyes  upon  a few  relics  of  the  past  and 
sigh  over  the  encroachments  of  modern  inventions.  Here 


THE  HARBOR. 


21 


from  cliildliood  they  have  gone  tip  and  down  the  banks  in 
the  steps  of  their  forefathers,  have  counted  and  dressed 
their  fish  as  they  did,  and  thence  have  wended  their 
weary  way  homeward.  Here  they  have  enjoyed  an  excite- 
ment that  could  well  dispense  with  the  theater,  the  club- 
room,  the  rat-pits  of  cities,  the  race-course  and  the  regatta. 
Here,  in  spring,  fall,  and  winter  their  fishing  fleet  have 
been  launched  and  moored.  Here  many  a race  homeward 
has  been  sailed  — not  for  a cup  of  gold,  but  for  dear  life, 
with  a crowd  of  kindred  upon  the  shore  to  rejoice  over 
the  safe  landing  of  those  pursued  by  the  violent  tempest. 

Now,  in  summer,  all  is  changed,  as  by  the  turn  of  the 
kaleidoscope.  The  fifteen-hundred -feet  Government  Break- 
water, the  wharf,  the  many  steamers  arriving  and  depart- 
ing, with  bells  ringing  and  whistles  blowing,  the  crowds  of 
visitors  coming  and  going,  the  rustling  of  silks  and  wav- 
ing of  white  handkerchiefs  from  the  high  decks,  the  car- 
riages now  passing  and  repassing  where  the  old  fish  houses 
once  stood,  the  zealous  information  from  the  employees  of  a 
dozen  hotels,  the  yachting  parties  hoisting  sail,  or  coming 
into  the  basin,  fishing  parties  arranging  for  “the  banks,” 
and  the  Island  “ High -hook  ” men  exhibiting  their  twelve 
hundred  blue  fish  just  caught  in  their  seine,  while  others 
with  a less  number  taken  with  a troll  are  furnishing  mater- 
ials for  the  hotel  tables,  while  the  Bathing  Beach  is  alive  — 
all  of  this  is  a glimpse  of  the  Harbor,  near  which  are  most 
of  the  hotels  for  summer  visitors. 

At  the  Harbor  are  stores,  mechanic  shops,  the  post  office, 
the  signal  station  and  telegraph,  halls,  and  saloons,  life  sav- 
ing station,  etc.  Here  nearly  all  the  shipping  of  the  Island 
is  transacted,  and  here  a chapel  for  accommodation  of 
summer  visitors  is  built. 


22 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


THE  CENTER. 

This  is  located  about  a mile  west  of  the  Harbor.  Here 
the  people  from  all  parts  of  the  Island  come  for  various 
purposes.  The  stores  here  do  a large  business.  One  of 
them,  as  well  as  one  at  the  harbor,  is  an  ornament  to  the 
Island,  and  attractive  to  visitors.  At  the  Center  are  the 
town  hall,  the  high  school,  the  library,  and  the  First  Baptist 
Church.  Here,  too,  is  the  old  wind  mill  that  has  done  good 
service  since  1815  with  its  four  arms,  each  thirty  feet  long, 
and  here  the  people  of  the  West  Side  market  their  fish, 
produce,  eggs,  poultry,  sea-moss,  etc. 

The  Centre  may  be  visited  directly  from  the  harbor  by 
Main  Street,  or  by  a drive  down  the  Neck  Road  to  Ceme- 
tery Street,  and  thence  by  the  Great  Fond  and  the  Ceme- 
tery ; or  by  High  Street  to  Dodge  Street,  thence  by  Dodge 
Street  to  Coe’s  Gate,  thence  by  cart  track  to  the  Fresh 
Pond,  and  thence  by  Centre  Street  to  the  Center.  This  last 
route  affords  very  fine  landscape,  and  distant  water  views. 

HARBOR  HILL. 

But  a part  of  this  once-noted  hill  now  remains.  It  is  in 
the  rear  of  the  gothic  cottage  built  by  Mr.  Darius  Dodge  a 
little  west  of  the  Harbor,  on  the  right-hand  corner  as  one 
turns  from  Main  Street  to  go  down  the  Neck  Road. 
Much  of  that  hill  has  been  carried  away  by  frosts,  rains, 
and  heavy  seas.  On  it  was  a heavy  battery  in  1740  and 
previously  to  protect  the  Island  against  French  and  Spanish 
invasions.  That  battery  commanded  the  Bay.  Edward 
Sands  was  then  “ Captain  of  the  Island,”  and  had  com- 
mand of  the  quota  of  soldiers  there.  It  was  in  reference 
to  this  battery  on  Harbor  Hill  that  the  R.  I.  Legislature 
enacted  “ That  the  six  great  guns  at  New  Shoreham  be 
mounted  on  carriages,  in  the  most  convenient  manner,  as 
shall  be  judged  by  the  inhabitants  ; and  that  they,  at  their 
own  charge,  procure  two  barrels  of  gunpowder,  one  hund- 


MOHEGAN  BLUFFS. 


23 


red  and  twenty  great  shot  and  forty  pounds  weight  of 
musket  halls.”  These  great  guns,  and  the  military  stores 
were  removed  to  the  main  land  at  the  beginning  of  the 
revolution.  One  of  the  cannon  balls  lingered  upon  the  Is- 
land, was  made  a part  of  a wooden  anchor  for  a light  ves- 
sel in  the  Great  Pond,  after  having  been  lost  many  years, 
was  fished  up  there  many  years  ago,  and  is  now  in  the  pos- 
session of  the  writer.  That  part  of  the  Hill  where  the 
battery  and  earth  works  were  probably  located,  was  where 
the  tide  now  ebbs  and  flows,  and  has  disappeared  like  thous- 
ands of  other  strongholds  that  have  been  carried  by  the 
waves  and  tides  of  time  into  oblivion.  Prom  what  re- 
mains of  Harbor  Hill  one  of  the  finest  views  may  be  had 
of  the  Bay  and  Harbor.  There  the  Storm  Signals  of  the 
Island  are  now  displayed. 

MOHEGAN  BLUFFS. 

These  have  been  improperly  called  the  cliffs.  But  Block 
Island  never  had  any  cliffs.  Not  even  a ledge  there  has 
yet  been  discovered,  without  which  there  is  no  foundation 
for  cliffs.  These  high  bluffs  are  like  those  of  Clay  Head, 
with  less  impregnation  of  iron.  When  viewed  from  a short 
distance  at  sea  they  make  a weird  and  pleasing  impression, 
but  are  not  comparable  with  those  along  the  upper  Missis 
sippi,  and  in  the  vicinity  of  Omaha.  Yet,  to  those  not  fa- 
miliar with  the  more  imposing  heights  the  Mohegan  Bluffs 
may  well  be  considered  grand,  and  pleasing,  well  repaying 
for  a yacht  excursion  to  the  south-east  of  the  Island,  or  for 
a walk  to  them  at  low  tide  along  the  east  shore  ; or  for  a 
ride  to  them  by  the  road  to  the  New  Light  House,  viz.  : by 
High  Street,  Hodge  Street,  and  Cart  Track  from  Sands’ 
Gate. 

These  Bluffs  took  their  name  from  the  Mohegan  Indian 
warriors  who  invaded  the  Island  many  centuries  ago,  were 
driven  to  these  bluffs,  cornered  up  there,  and  starved  by 


24  HiSTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 

the  Manisseans,  or  Island  Indians.  This  name  applies  to 
them  all -along  the  south  shore  from  the  New  Light  House 
to  the  vicinity  of  Black  Rock.  In  the  waters  at  their  feet 
have  been  found  very  line  places  for  catching  large  bass 
with  pole  and  reel.  Expert  fishermen  have  caught  them 
there  that  weighed  over  sixty  pounds.  Favorable  boulders 
can  be  reached  at  low  tide. 

BEACON  HILL. 

This  is  the  highest  land  upon  the  Island,  and  is  a minia- 
ture sugar  loaf  mountain.  By  a circuitous  drive  its  sum- 
mit can  be  reached  with  carriages.  Many  visitors,  ladies 
and  gentlemen,  prefer  to  go  there  on  foot.  A strong,  cool 
breeze  will  at  all  times  give  them  an  agreeable  greeting. 
Its  name  originated  from  the  light  there  used  from  time 
immemorial  to  warn  the  inhabitants  of  approaching  ene- 
mies, especially  during  the  old  French  and  the  Revolution- 
ary wars.  It  was  the  rendezvous  for  Indians  when  they  had 
their  pow-wows  and  war-dances.  There  they  assembled 
from  time  to  time,  drank  rum,  and  bade  defiance  to  their 
enemies  at  Montauk,  and  at  Watch  Hill  where  the  fierce  chief 
Sassacus  and  his  bloody  warriors  looked  with  covetous  eyes 
towards  Manisses.  It  was  there,  evidently,  that  Thomas 
Terry  by  his  strategy  and  fluent  use  of  their  language  vir- 
tually disarmed  them  of  their  scalping  knives  as  they  were 
drinking  rum  and  thinking  of  the  sixteen  families  of  white- 
faced intruders  who  were  monopolizing  their  lands  and 
fisheries.  Mr.  Terry  knew  they  got  their  cask  of  rum 
of  the  trader  Arnold  then  on  the  Island,  and  ingeniously, 
in  their  own  tongue,  wrought  up  their  indignation  towards 
the  trader.  When  he  had  sufficiently  fired  their  prejudice, 
as  they  made  their  wrathful,  half-drunken  protestations, 
seeing  their  cask  of  rum  was  on  the  verge  of  the  “ long 
descent  to  the  bottom  ” of  the  hill,  and  that  the  bung  was 
out  of  the  cask,  managing  to  have  a strong  Indian,  then 


SANDY  HILL. 


25 


partially  intoxicated,  stand  the  upper  side  of  the  cask  while 
Mr.  Terry  said  to  him,  — “ If  you  dislike  Mr.  Arnold,  as 
you  pretend,  prove  it  by  saying  — Tuckisha , Mr.  Arnold, 
and  by  giving  his  cask  a hard  kick.” 

With  a savage  yell  the  Indian  exclaimed, — 11  Tuckisha! 

(I  don’t  care  for  you)  Mr.  Arnold,”  and  gave  the  cask  so 
violent  a kick  that  it  went  rolling  down  the  hill  and  the 
rum  escaping  until  it  was  all  out,  and  that  made  the 
Indians  sober,  but  not  discerning  enough  to  perceive  the 
trick  of  wasting  their  rum. 

From  its  summit  the  best  view  of  the  Island  is  obtained. 
One  looks  down  upon  it  in  all  directions,  and  its  undulating 
surface  is  very  conspicuous,  interspersed  with  its  scores  of 
ponds.  The  spectator  sees  the  encircling  waters  of  the 
ocean  all  around  the  Island,  except  at  a small  point  near  * 
the  new  Light-house.  There,  too,  one  may  see,  in  a clear 
atmosphere,  with  a good  glass,  Montauk,  Stonington,  Watch 
Hill,  Point  Judith,  and  Newport,  and  vessels  in  great  num- 
bers far  at  sea.  The  hill  is  about  three  hundred  feet  high. 

To  visit  Beacon  Hill  from  the  Harbor,  go  to  the  Center, 
thence  by  Main  Street  to  the  foot  of  the  hill  on  the  right, 
where  the  bars  are  lowered  for  footmen,  and  removed  for 
carriages. 

SANDY  HILL. 

This  is  on  the  West  Side,  a little  south  of  Grace's  Cove, 
near  the  Sound  shore.  It  is  a pile  of  sand  and  gravel,  in 
the  form  of  a sugar-loaf  or  cone,  rising  about  a hundred 
feet,  with  room  on  the  top  for  a small  pic-nie  party,  where 
there  is  a tuft  of  tall  coarse  grass  in  summer,  and  a con- 
stant sea  breeze.  It  rests  upon  a thick  bed  of  excellent 
peat,  and  is  a study  for  the  naturalist.  It  may  be  visited 
by  following  the  shore  north  from  Horry’s  Cove,  or  by 
Cart-track  from  Main  Street  near  the  west  foot  of  Beacon 
Hill. 


26 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


SANDY  POINT. 

This  is  the  northern  extremity  of  the  Island,  and  is  pure 
sand.  On  it  have  been  four  successive  light-houses.  The 
first  three  were  of  brief  service  on  account  of  their  sandy 
foundation,  which  was  disturbed  by  winds,  waves,  and 
tides.  Too  many  have  inferred  that  because  it  is  sand  all 
the  Island  is  sandy  and  barren,  which  is  a great  mistake. 

GROVE  POINT. 

This  is  a short  distance  easterly  from  Sandy  Point,  and 
many  years  ago  projected  much  farther  and  more  sharply 
into  the  sea  than  at  present,  and  then  made  Cow  Cove  more 
distinct  than  it  now  is.  Its  name  originated  from  the  brig 
Golden  Grove , which  was  wrecked  upon  it  about  a century 
ago,  or  about  the  time  the  Palatine  visited  the  Island,  not 
long  before  she  was  wrecked  in  the  Bay  of  Bengal,  accord- 
ing to  authentic  records.  The  Golden  Grove  was  from 
Halifax,  laden  with  pork  and  lard.  Her  captain,  William 
Chitty,  and  his  crew  remained  upon  the  Island,  and  when 
they  and  the  Islanders  wanted  a barrel  of  pork  they  went 
to  the  wreck  and  helped  themselves. 

Her  crew  made  up  some  doggerel  poetry  about  their 
voyage,  two  lines  of  which  are, — 

“ From  Halifax,  that  frozen  shore, 

On  Christmas  day  we  made  the  shore 
On  Block  Island,  etc.” 

This  “ Christmas  day  ” corresponds  with  the  legend  that 
the  Palatine  came  ashore  about  Christmas. 

The  crew  frequently  celebrated  their  wreck,  while  repeat- 
ing the  following  couplet: — 

“ Since  on  Block  Island  we  saved  our  lives, 

Here’s  health  to  our  sweethearts  and  our  wives.” 

CLAY  HEAD. 

This  is  the  high,  corrugated  bluff  seen  on  the  northerly 
part  of  the  Island  while  approaching  it  from  Newport,  and 


INDIAN-HEAD-NECK. 


27 


is  that  part  nearest  to  Point  Judith.  It  is  the  bold  shore 
mentioned  in  Whittier’s  “Palatine,”  in  the  line, — 

“ The  false  lights  over  the  Rocky  Head  ! 

It  is  not  rocky,  but  consists  almost  entirely  of  clay  and 
sand,  in  which  are  a few  boulders.  Yery  fine  qualities 
of  blue,  red,  and  white  clay  are  found  there,  and  some 
fantastic  combinations  of  iron,  clay,  and  sand,  e.  g.,  a mix- 
ture of  clay  tinged  with  iron  forming  itself  around  pure 
sand,  from  a gill  to  half  a peck  in  quantity.  The  clay, 
with  a small  opening,  hardens,  the  sands  in  time  gradually 
escape  out  of  the  said  opening,  leaving  behind  them  a few 
pebbles  like  birds’  eggs,  and  these  pebbles  cannot  pass  out 
where  the  sand  did,  and  these  clay  formations  become 
simply  stone  shells,  colored  with  iron,  with  pebbles  rattling 
inside.  The  Islanders  call  the  place  where  such  have  been 
abundant, — “ Pots  and  Kettles”  of  Clay  Head.  This  name 
sounds  about  as  well  as  the  more  scientific  geode. 

One  of  the  most  pleasant  walks  of  the  Island,  in  the 
cool  morning  of  summer,  is  from  the  Harbor  along  the 
Bathing  Beach  to  the  northerly  part  of  Clay  Head.  To 
do  this  the  visitor  needs  no  guide^ — no  directions  more 
complex  than  the  Boston  boy  gave  to  the  English  gentle- 
man, as  he  replied  to  the  latter, — “Keep  this  street  and 
follow  your  nose."  During  this  beautiful  walk,  you  may 
see  strange  birds,  shells,  minerals,  breakers,  the  sun  rising 
out  of  the  sea,  and  hear  many  strange  sounds. 

INDIAN-HEAD-NECK. 

This  narrow  little  bluff  on  the  east  shore  of  the  south 
end  of  the  Great  Pond  is  a historic  point  of  considerable 
interest.  Here  the  Indians  anciently  buried  their  dead, 
and  filled  the  graves  with  an  ample  supply  of  shell-fish 
from  the  adjacent  Pond.  The  writer  collected  more  than 
half  a bushel  of  scallop  shells  from  one  grave  opened  by 
2 


28 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


the  frost  in  the  hank  facing  the  Pond,  while  spending  a 
winter  upon  the  Island.  Some  of  the  shells  had  never 
been  opened,  but  were  full  of  fine  earth  and  sand,  needing 
a little  lime  to  make  a petrifaction.  Here,  east  of  the 
road,  lived  the  heroic  Thomas  Terry.  On  this  Neck  he 
disarmed,  alone,  thirty  strange  Indians,  putting  their  guns 
in  his  house  until  they  should  leave  the  Island. 

This  .Neck  took  its  name  from  circumstances  only  par- 
tially understood.  There,  for  some  crime,  anciently,  two 
heads  of  Indians  were  placed  upon  stakes,  sharpened  at 
the  top,  and  they  remained  in  that  condition.  Tradition 
informs  us  that  these  two  Indians  were  Mohegans  or 
Pequots,  and  hence  their  heads  were  placed  upon  the  stakes 
with  their  faces  looking  homeward,  towards  Stonington 
or  Watch  Hill.  From  their  position  the  early  settlers 
gave  the  bluff  the  name  of  Indian- Head- Neck.  It  is  not  far 
from  the  Bathing  Beach,  and  is  visited  from  the  Harbor  by 
going  down  the  Neck  Road  to  Cemetery  Street  on  the  left, 
and  the  bluff  of  the  Neck  is  but  a short  distance  from  this 
intersection.  From  that  old  burying-place  a fine  view  is 
had  of  the  Great  Pond  and  its  surroundings,  and  of  the 
ocean  stretching  far  away  with  its  many  sails  of  commerce. 

FORT  ISLAND. 

This  little  historic  place  is  located  a short  distance  south 
of  the  south  end  of  the  Great  Pond,  from  which  Trimm’s 
Pond  is  separated  by  a narrow  isthmus,  on  which  Cemetery 
Street  passes  towards  Indian-Head-Neck  and  Sandy  Point. 
From  this  isthmus  Fort  Island  is  separated  by  a narrow 
channel  but  a few  rods  in  width,  while  a considerable  body 
of  water  is  on  its  other  sides.  It  is  an  elevated  plat  of 
about  five  acres,  and  is  the  property  of  Mr.  Samuel  Mott, 
whose  house  is  the  one  nearest  to  the  Island.  It  was  occu- 
pied for  a fort  two  hundred  years  ago,  and  how  many 
centuries  previous  no  record  announces.  It  was  doubtless 


F0KT  ISLAND. 


29 


a rude  structure,  consisting  mainly  of  a breastwork  around 
the  little  Island  and  elevated  some  distance  from  the  water. 
To  this  the  Manisseans  could  retreat  when  hard  pressed  by 
their  invaders.  The  bloody  battles  there  with  the  Mohegans, 
or  with  the  Pequots  long  before  the  murder  of  Oldham  and 
the  capture  of  Block  Island  by  Endicott,  and  its  settlement  by 
the  English  can  easily  be  imagined.  But  in  none  of  them, 
we  are  sure,  was  there  ever  displayed  such  heroism  as  the 
first  settlers  there  exhibited,  when  neither  a gun  was  fired, 
nor  an  arrow  shot,  nor  a blow  struck. 

Three  hundred  native  warriors,  with  guns,  bows  and 
arrows,  scalping  knives  and  tomahawks  were  still  claiming 
homes  on  Block  Island.  It  was  aggravating  for  them  to 
see  their  old  corn  plantations  and  fishing  grounds  monop- 
olized by  a few  pale-faced  foreigners,  to  have  their  lands 
and  liberties  taken  from  them  without  compensation,  and  to 
be  made  slaves.  They  knew  their  greater  numbers  and  yet 
stood  in  awe  of  the  greater  sagacity  of  the  white  man. 
But  their  hostile  feelings  increased,  and  occasionally  broke 
out  in  “insults,  with  threatening  speeches,  and  offering 
smaller  abuses,”  as  reported  by  one  intimate  with  eye-wit- 
nesses. With  such  feelings  in  three  hundred  savage  breasts 
sixteen  men  and  a boy  had  to  contend,  and  they  bravely 
challenged  the  whole  Indian  forces  of  the  Island  to  meet 
them  for  a field  fight.  The  Indian  warriors  accepted  the. 
challenge,  and  on  the  day  appointed  assembled  on  Fort 
Island.  The  defiant  little  army  of  seventeen  marched 
bodly  to  the  conflict.  They  were  none  the  less  brave 
though  not  a blow  was  struck.  They  expected  to  overawe 
their  enemies  by  defiance,  or  were  resolved  to  use  their 
weapons  to  the  best  of  their  ability.  Says  Mr.  Niles,  one 
of  the  earliest  inhabitants  of  the  little  colony,  “ Thither 
they  came  with  utmost  resolution,  and  war-like  courage, 
and  magnanimity.” 

During  this  procedure  at  Fort  Island  we  can  but  faintly 


30 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


imagine  another  scene  which  the  historian  cannot  well  de- 
scribe. It  was  that  assemblage  of  wives,  mothers,  and  chil- 
dren at  the  Sand’s  Garrison,  or  stone  house  where  there  must 
have  been  the  most  painful  anxieties  over  the  issues  of  the 
day.  If  there  were  to  be  blood  shed  at  Fort  Island,  what 
less  than  the  scalping  knife  and  the  tomahawk  could  be 
expected  by  the  helpless  inmates  of  that  garrison  ? But 
happily  the  prayers  and  tears  and  agonies  there  were  all 
turned  to  rejoicing  when  the  good  news  was  heard  of  the 
peaceful  capitulation.  (See  Hostilities.) 

To  visit  Fort  Island,  now  a cultivated  field,  go  from  the 
Harbor  to  the  Center,  thence  by  Cemetery  Street  to  the 
south  shore  of  the  Great  Pond,  a short  distance  south  of 
which  the  place  of  the  ancient  Fort  is  accessible. 

THE  CEMETERY. 

The  Block  Island  Cemetery , a quarter  of  a mile  north 
of  the  Center,  is  on  an  elevation  that  overlooks  much  of 
the  East  Side,  and  of  the  Neck,  and  from  it  a fine  water 
view  is  had  of  the  Great  Pond,  Block  Island  Sound,  Block 
Island  Bay,  and  the  Atlantic  eastwards  as  far  as  the  eye 
can  reach.  In  this  cemetery  may  be  found  some  of  the 
graves  of  the  first  and  most  prominent  settlers.  On  a hori- 
zontal slab  in  the  upper  and  central  part  of  the  grounds 
may  be  seen  this  Epitaph, — 

HERE  LYES  INTERRED  THE 
BODY  OF  MR.  JAMES  SANDS  SENIOR 
AGED  73  YEARS  WHO  DEPARTED  THIS 
LIFE  MARCH  13  A.  D.  1695. 

Near  it  is  the  grave  of  the  venerable  Simon  Ray,  desig- 
nated by  a gray  stone  slab  on  which  is  a long  and  honora- 
ble record  of  his  virtues.  He  died  in  his  one  hundred 
and  second  year.  There,  too,  may  be  seen  the  cen- 


THE  BATHING  BEACH. 


31 


tenary  grave  of  Ackers  Tosh,  and  near  the  northwest  corner 
of  the  cemetery  are  the  seven  graves  of  the  passengers  lost 
by  the  wreck  of  the  Warrior  on  Sandy  Point,  and  near 
them  is  the  little  grave  of  an  unknown  infant  drowned  and 
floated  ashore  from  the  wreck  of  the  steamer  Metis  oft: 
Watch  Hill. 

The  cemetery  is  visited  by  many,  and  is  reached  from 
the  Harbor  by  going  to  the  Center,  and  thence  by  Cemetery 
Street  past  the  Wind  Mill  and  Central  House. 

THE  BATHING  BEACH.  * 

This  is  one  of  the  principal  attractions  of  the  Island. 
The  sand  is  fine,  clean,  and  generally  so  compact  when  kept 
moist  by  the  gentle  surf  that  the  inhabitants  prefer  the 
beach  to  the  Neck  Road  while  passing  between  the  Neck 
and  the  Harbor  with  buggies.  Unless  the  beach  has  been 
greatly  disturbed  by  a storm  its  descent  is  gradual,  but  not 
so  much  so  as  to  make  a long  wade  necessary  to  obtain 
suitable  depth.  Here  the  elements  combine  their  efforts  to 
afford  a luxury  and  a vigor  that  cannot  be  obtained  in  the 
cities.  Here  fashion  drops  her  ornaments  and  seeks  na- 
ture’s health-giving  freedom.  Here  the  most  delicate  may 
experience  the  truth  of  the  saying, 

“ On  smoother  beaches  no  sea  birds  light, 

No  blue  waves  shatter  to  foam  more  white. 

And  the  thousands  who  have  enjoyed  the  amusing  inci- 
dents of  the  Beach  among  the  temporary  Mermen  and  Mer- 
maids have  found  the  social  element  to  combine  with  those 
of  the  sea  and  air  to  fulfil  the  promise  of  the  poet,  — 

“And  the  pale  health-seeker  findeth  there 
The  wine  of  life  in  its  pleasant  air.” 

The  Bathing  Beach  is  on  the  east  shore,  and  is  distinguish- 
ed by  its  many  little  houses  seen  from  approaching  steamers. 
It  is  near  enough  to  the  hotels,  for  going  and  coming,  either 


32 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


on  foot  by  tlie  vigorous,  or  in  carriages  by  others,  is  a ne- 
cessary part  of  the  enjoyment,  giving  a previous  and  sub- 
sequent circulation  of  the  blood  quite  essential  to  health. 
Facilities  for  bathing  are  increasing  annually,  such  as  con- 
veyances, suits,  houses,  etc.  Up  to  the  present  time  this 
beach  has  been  remarkably  free  from  accidents,  and  this 
may  be  owing  in  part  to  the  required  depth  being  found 
near  the  shore,  and  thus  keeping  the  bathers  from  the 
greater  force  of  the  undertow,  also  keeping  them  nearer 
together. 

In  the  vicinity  of  the  bathing  houses  Mr.  G.  McCotter, 
from  Brooklyn,  has  an  interesting  process  of  separating  the 
black  or  iron  sand  from  the  other  sand.  This  is  done  by 
magnetic  attraction.  The  iron  sand  is  used  for  the  manu- 
facture of  steel,  and  large  quantities  are  exported  to  New 
York. 


THE  PONDS. 


These  are  among  the  remarkable  features  of  Block 
Island.  While  thousands  of  tracts  of  land,  high  and  low, 
uneven  and  level,  may  be  found  without  lake  or  pond  — each 
of  these  tracts  larger  than  the  Island,  here  a hundred  may 
be  counted  that  do  not  become  dry  once  in  ten  years,  none 
of  them  connected  with  a stream  large  enough  to  be  called 
a brook.  They  are  of  all  sizes  and  shapes,  from  the  little 
duck  pool  to  the  great  pond  which  is  said  to  cover  one 
thousand  acres.  They  are  of  incalculable  value  to  the  little 
farms  into  which  the  land  is  divided,  nearly,  if  not  quite 
all  of  which  are  thus  favored.  Only  the  more  important  of 
these  can  here  be  described.  The  principal  ponds  are 
stocked  with  bass,  and  fine  ones  have  been  caught. 


THE  GREAT  POND. 

This,  like  the  Island  itself,  has  had  various  names.  But 
the  one  most  appropriate  is  the  one  here  given.  It  is  the 
oldest,  and  is  probably  the  English  of  the  Indian  name 


THE  PONDS. 


33 


given  it  by  the  Manisseans  “ time  out  of  mind.”  This,  too, 
is  the  name  applied  to  it  by  Roger  Williams,  the  noted  In- 
dian interpreter,  in  1649.  There  is  no  good  reason  now  for 
calling  it  “ Salt,”  for  it  is  fresh,  too  fresh  for  clams,  scallops, 
and  oysters.  Many  years  ago  it  was  properly  a gulf,  when 
it  was  connected  with  the  ocean  at  the  Breach. 

Its  depth  is  variable,  and  its  bottom  is  uneven,  like  the 
surface  of  the  Island  in  general.  Twelve  fathoms  are  its 
maximum  on  the  side  nearest  the  sea,  from  which  it  is  se- 
parated by  a narrow  rim  of  sand,  especially  as  seen  from 
Beacon  Hill.  It  abounds  with  fish  which  furnish  sport  to 
visitors  who  prefer  its  quiet  surface  to  that  of  the  rolling 
sea.  It  is  a large  and  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  and  very 
attractive  to  pleasure  seekers  who  are  fond  of  fishing, 
swimming,  rowing,  and  sailing.  Free  from  the  swells  and 
dangerous  surf  of  the  sea,  several  miles  in  length,  and 
wide  enough  for  long  tacking  in  any  wind,  it  will  doubtless 
continue  to  increase  in  attractiveness.  Besides,  it  is  a study 
for  the  naturalist,  for  whence  is  its  supply  ? If  from  the 
surrounding  ocean,  why  is  it  fresh  ? Perhaps  it  illustrates 
Bacon’s  saying  that  “ sea-water  passing  or  straining  through 
the  sands  leaveth  the  saltness.” 

How  visited.  From  the  harbor  there  are  two  routes. 
One  is  by  Main  Street  to  the  Center.  There  turn  to  the 
right,  pass  the  Littlefield  Wind  Mill,  the  Cemetery,  and  this 
is  near  the  Great  Pond.  The  other  route  is  to  leave  Center 
Street  at  the  W oonsocket  House,  turning  to  the  right,  and 
passing  down  the  Neck  Road,  until  Cemetery  Street  is  in- 
tersected, where  the  Great  Pond  is  soon  reached,  and  the 
carriage  may  be  driven  along  its  water’s  edge,  at  the  foot 
of  Indian-Head-Neck,  or  it  may  follow  the  carriage  way 
over  Indian-Head-Neck  towards  the  Cemetery,  thence  to 
the  Center,  and  thence  to  the  Harbor,  making  a pleasant 
hour’s  drive. 


34 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


CHAGUM  POND. 

This  is  next  in  size  to  the  Great  Pond.  Its  name  is  com- 
monly pronounced  Shaw  gum,  and  it  probably  originated 
from  an  Indian  who  lived  on  the  Island  in  1711,  was  then 
a slave  to  some  lordly  master,  stole  a boat,  ran  away,  lost 
the  boat,  was  captured,  and  was  punished  by  the  wardens 
by  six  months  added  to  his  former  period  of  servitude. 
Part  of  the  Pond  is  in  Sandy  Point.  Its  water  is  fresh  and 
clear,  and  on  its  northerly  side  is  separated  by  a narrow 
Isthmus  from  the  sea,  over  which  the  sea  has  been  known 
to  break  into  the  pond,  as  it  did  in  the  great  gale  of  1815, 
passing  over  so  deep,  so  suddenly,  and  with  such  force  as 
to  carry  a footman,  Edward  Gorton,  then  passing,  into  the 
pond  where  he  was  buried  so  deep  in  the  sand  as  never  to 
be  recovered.  This  pond  is  visited  by  the  Neck  Road, 
which  leads  to  the  Sandy  Point  Light  House  located  near 
this  pond. 

THE  FRESH  POND. 

It  covers  several  acres,  is  free  from  the  brackish  taste  of 
other  ponds,  is  clear,  and  abundant  in  perch,  and  bass  have 
been  caught  in  it.  Here  visitors  enjoy  the  game  of  “high 
hook,”  as  the  one  is  proclaimed  who  catches  the  most,  and 
also  the  luxury  of  bathing.  Near  the  shores  of  this  pond, 
more  than  a century  ago,  was  the  central  place  of  business, 
east  of  the  north  end.  Here  stood  the  first  school-house, 
the  first  church,  the  parsonage,  and  the  Honeywell  Wind 
Mill. 

This  pond  is  reached  by  passing  from  the  Harbor  to  the 
Center,  and  thence  south  about  a mile.  A short  distance 
south  or  west  of  the  pond  visitors  have  fine  views  of  the 
Atlantic,  and  of  Montauk,  by  the  aid  of  glasses. 

SANDS  POND. 

This  gem  in  an  emerald  setting  is  a curiosity  as  well  as  a 
thing  of  beauty.  Its  location  is  on  some  of  the  highest  land 


THE  PONDS. 


S5 


of  the  Island,  and  has  no  watershed  of  any  account,  and 
neither  inlet  nor  outlet  now  known.  It  is  the  clearest,  and 
most  regular  shaped,  has  but  a few  feet  of  average  depth,  and 
never  becomes  dry.  It  is  not  easy  to  explain  why  a pond 
is  there  any  more  than  in  a thousand  other  places.  N o vol- 
canic appearances  suggest  that  it  is  an  extinct  crater  with 
an  invisible  connection  with  some  source  of  supply  more 
elevated.  This  pond  ought  to  furnish  much  of  the  ice  of 
the  Island.  It  takes  its  name  from  Dea.  R.  T.  Sands  and 
his  brother  William  C.  Sands  who  live  near,  and  own  land 
around  its  shores.  In  it  are  bass. 

Visitors  find  the  Sands  Pond  by  passing  from  the  Har- 
bor up  High  Street  to  its  junction  with  Dodge  Street  bearing 
to  the  right,  and  Dodge  Street,  passing  Noah  Dodge’s  fine 
residence,  from  which  one  of  the  best  landscape  views  of  the 
Island  is  had,  leads  to  the  Sands  Pond.  Thence,  by  cart 
track  passing  through  a few  gates,  visitors  may  enter  Center 
Street,  near  Fresh  Pond,  and  thence  enjoy  good  roads  and 
fine  prospects  by  the  Center  back  to  the  Harbor. 

THE  MIDDLE  POND. 

This  is  on  the  Neck,  near  the  west  shore,  south  of  Cha- 
gum  Pond  a short  distance,  and  about  midway  between  that 
and  Wash  Pond,  a small  body  of  water  a little  south  of 
Middle  Pond,  and  named  as  it  is  because  around  its  shores, 
during  the  war  of  1812  with  England  the  British  vessels 
often  anchored  near,  and  the  marines  came  ashore  there 
and  washed  their  garments.  At  the  middle  pond  they  re- 
plenished their  ships  with  fresh  water  — made  fresh  evi- 
dently by  filtering  from  the  sea  through  the  sand.  Here 
the  Islanders  bartered  with  the  sailors,  but  were  not  allowed 
to  sell  rum,  although  they  did  it  sometimes  on  the  sly. 
Benjamin  Sprague,  now  about  ninety,  says  he  was  on  his  way 
there  with  barter,  and  met  some  English  officers  coming  in 
elegant  uniform  on  horses  towards  the  Harbor.  T)ne  said 


36 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


to  Mr.  Sprague  “ Wliat  have  you  to  sell?”  “Ducks, 
chickens,  and  beans,”  was- the  reply.  “ What’s  in  that  jug  ? ” 
said  the  officer.  Instead  of  answering,  Mr.  Sprague  says, — 
“ I looked  him  up  in  the  face.  He  laughed,  and  said,  ' I’ll 
buy  your  ducks,  chickens,  and  beans,  and  go  on,  and  let  my 
steward  have  them,  and  let  my  men  have  a drink  apiece, 
but  don’t  let  them  get  drunk.’  They  went  on,  and  so  did  I. 
Now,  said  I,  there’s  good  sailing,  and  I’ll  make  a good  voy- 
age. So  when  I arrived  at  the  Middle  Pond  the  steward 
paid  me  for  my  ducks,  etc.,  and  I told  him  about  the  rum, 
and  he  nodded  assent.  I then  went  near  the  marines,  put 
up  two  fingers,  and  beckoned  them  to  follow  me.  I went 
down  by  the  bank,  behind  some  willows,  and  two  came. 
The  rum  was  half  water,  and  I sold  each  a pint  for  a dollar 
a pint.  After  they  went  back  two  more  came,  and  so  on 
until  I sold  all  out  to  them  at  a dollar  a pint.  As  it  was 
then  about  noon  they  urged  me  to  dine  with  them,  and  I 
did,  and  they  had  their  English  rum  with  their  rations. 
They  asked  me  to  drink  some,  and  I did  ; and  they  asked 
me  if  I did  not  think  their  rum  was  better  than  mine. 
I told  them,  yes,  but  did  not  tell  them  how  much  of  mine 
was  water.”  By  watering  it  he  obeyed  the  commander’s 
order — “ Don’t  let  any  of  them  get  drunk.”  Middle  Pond 
will  long  be  remembered  as  a favorite  rendezvous  for  the 
English  fleet  in  1812.  It  is  visited  only  by  cart  paths  from 
the  Neck  Road. 

THE  HARBOR  POND. 

A little  at  the  north  of  the  Woonsocket  House,  and  at  the 
left  while  passing  from  the  Harbor  down  the  Neck  Road, 
lies  this  body  of  brackish  water,  made  so  by  its  nearness  to 
the  Bay,  and  by  the  great  amount  of  black  or  iron  sand  in 
its  vicinity.  At  times  its  appearance  is  very  rusty,  and 
sometimes  has  a purple  tinge.  Its  row  boats,  sailing  boats, 
and  fishing  afford  much  pleasure.  It  is  connected  with 
Indian  Head  Pond,  and  the  latter  with  Trimm’s  Pond. 


THE  PONDS. 


37 


tkimm’s  pond. 

This  pond  takes  its  name  from  Godfrey  Trimm  who  used 
to  live  on  its  west  shore  near  Wm.  P.  Ball’s,  and  at  that 
house  the  woman  almost  gave  a refugee  “ his  quietus  ” with 
her  scissors.  In  it  is  Ford  Island,  a little  south  of  the  south- 
ern extremity  of  the  Great  Pond.  This  pond  straggles 
around  more  than  any  other,  and  does  much  to  beautify 
the  location  of  the  Seaside  House,  and  the  landscape  in 
front  of  the  Central  House,  stretching  from  near  the  N eck 
Road  to  Cemetery  Street.  Its  waters  for  many  years  have 
been  noted  for  eel-fishing  in  winter,  and  as  the  home  of  the 
Island  “ Sea-serpent.”  He  is  so  large  that  when  seen  a few 
years  since  by  a sturdy  young  man,  the  latter  hastened  to 
the  nearest  house,  trembling  with  fear,  and  tried  to  describe 
the  “old  settler.”  He  was  seen  during  the  summer  of 
1876.  The  serpent  is  evidently  a very  large  water-snake, 
harmless,  and  as  shy  as  the  ancient  natives  who,  perhaps, 
worshiped  this  one’s  forefathers.  The  part  of  this  pond 
east  of  Indian-Head-Neck  is  sometimes  called  Indian  Head 
Pond. 

THE  MILL  POND. 

This  is  the  only  one  of  the  kind  on  the  Island,  and  is  seen 
at  the  bridge  between  the  Harbor  and  the  Center.  Here  a 
mill  for  grinding  corn  anciently  stood,  and  was  built  by 
Capt.  James  Sands.  Here  his  only  child  at  the  time,  “a 
girl  just  able  to  run  about  and  prattle  a little,”  was  drown- 
ed. Here,  too,  was  the  “Sands  Garrison,”  and  an  old, 
miniature  earth-work  still  remains  across  the  street  from 
the  pond.  Here,  since  the  memory  of  the  present  older 
generation,  was  also  a “ carding  machine  ” for  making 
“rolls”  of  wool.  It  is  fed  by  a rill  from  a swamp  south- 
west of  the  pond.  It  is  a pleasant  border  to  the  school, 
house  lot  near  the  pond,  and  a great  convenience  to  Mr. 
Almanzo  Littlefield. 


38 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


THE  SPRINGS. 

The  most  noted  springs  of  the  Island  are  near  the  shore, 
southeasterly  from  the  spring  house  to  which  their  water  is 
forced  by  a hydraulic  ram.  They  boil  up  from  the  ground 
beautifully,  and  are  a favorite  resort,  as  they  are  furnished 
with  cups,  insulated,  and  surrounded  by  seats  by  Mr.  B.  B. 
Mitchell  their  owner,  and  the  proprietor  of  the  Spring 
House.  They  are  found  by  a short  stroll  from  the  Break- 
water southerly  along  the  beach  until  one  reaches  the  rill 
from  them  descending  to  the  ocean.  A few  steps  up  this 
rill  in  a gentle  gulley  bring  one  to  the  springs.  Or  they 
may  be  reached  by  way  of  Spring  Street  and  the  Spring 
House.  One  is  clear,  cold,  and  palatable ; the  other  is 
strongly  impregnated  with  iron. 

PLEASURE  FISHING. 

This  is  of  comparatively  recent  origin  on  Block  Island,  and 
is  an  institution  established  and  maintained  entirely  by  visit- 
ors. For  what  Islander  ever  thought  of  catching  a fish  sim- 
ply for  the  fun  of  it  ? Money  or  hunger  has  always  been  his 
motive  for  fishing.  So  while  he  enjoys  his  outlays  for  yacht, 
finely  furnished  for  capturing  the  gamy  blue  fish  and  his 
neighboring  denizens,  supplying  “ gear  ” of  all  needed  vari- 
eties, all  in  hope  of  revenue,  the  parties  whom  he  serves 
enjoy  the  lively  ocean  sails  about  the  Island,  the  graceful 
rocking  of  the  vessel  at  anchor,  while  men  are  baiting 
hooks  for  gentler  hands  which  have  been  thrilled  there  per- 
haps for  the  first  time  by  a modest  shake  of  a new  acquaint- 
ance at  the  lower  end  of  the  line.  The  skipper  thinks  of 
his  pay,  and  of  the  little  accommodations  he  can  afford  to 
win  the  patronage  of  a second,  and  future  voyages  of  the 
same  gay  party  who  seem  to  be  as  free  with  their  money 
as  with  their  jokes,  laughter,  and  merriment  of  various 
descriptions.  Now  and  then  the  heads  of  parties  seem  sur- 
prised to  find  that  the  sober  Islander  has  learned  and  prac- 


PLEASUHE  PISHING. 


39 


tices  some  of  the  tricks  of  business  so  common  on  the 
main  land,  and  they  wisely  conclude  that  next  time  they 
will  have  a definite  understanding  before  going  aboard. 
This  is  an  important  prerequisite  to  a pleasant  sailing  party, 
preventing  a temptation,  to  the  skipper,  and  also  an  unpleas- 
ant settlement,  in  some  cases.  The  amount  of  pleasure, 
however,  experienced  by  such  excursionists  depends  mainly 
upon  their  own  dispositions.  If  they  expect  that  fisher- 
man’s yacht  to  be  furnished  with  all  the  appointments  of 
an  elegant  home  or  hotel  ; if  they  expect  to  be  free  from  the 
unavoidable  color  imparted  by  the  sun  and  Seabreeze;  if 
they  cannot  endure  the  necessary  fish  odor  that  so  much 
heightens  by  contrast  the  value  of  perfumery  ; if  they  can- 
not pleasantly  accept  a little  dash  of  spray  over  the  bow 
occasionally  ; if  their  clothing  is  too  good  to  be  soiled  a 
little  ; if  they  are  too  stiff  necked  to  avoid  the  shifting 
boom,  and  thus  get  their  hats,  if  not  their  heads  smashed  ; 
if  they  have  no  patience  to  endure  the  brief  calm  that  de- 
prives them  of  their  dinner  or  tea  ; if  they  are  so  unjust 
as  to  complain  when  no  one  is  to  blame  ; if  they  have  no 
sense  of  the  ludicrous,  and  no  skill  for  entertaining  them- 
selves and  others  they  may  be  a party,  but  not  a pleasure 
party  while  sailing  and  fishing  together.  Pleasure  fishing, 
therefore,  for  its  highest  enjoyment  at  Block  Island,  re- 
quires a pleasant  party,  all  of  whom  expect  and  prepare  for 
inconveniences,  expecting  to  “ rough  it  ” for  a few  hours, 
unanimously  resolved  to  neither  give  nor  take  offence,  but 
to  assist  each  other  in  deriving  all  the  amusement  possible 
from  the  little  voyage  at  sea  with  hook  and  line  and  bait 
for  a little  practice  in  “ hauling.” 

The  Pond  Fishing  is  rapidly  increasing  in  popularity. 
Here  is  less  exposure  to  sea-sickness.  Here  a depth  of 
water  can  be  chosen  that  would  afford  no  excuse  for 
drowning,  and  at  the  same  time  the  pleasures  of  boating 
and  fishing  can  be  enjoyed.  Here  the  women  and  chil 


40 


HISTORY  OP  BLOCK.  ISLAND. 


dren  can  participate  in  safety,  and  it  would  require 
volumes  to  describe  the  amusements  of  pond  fishing  where 
fond  parents  watch  the  excitement  among  the  boys  and 
girls  hauling  the  shiny  perch  in  rapid  succession.  The 
happy  days  of  childhood  while  fishing  on  the  ponds  of 
Block  Island  will  form  many  bright  and  pictured  pages  in 
the  memory  of  many  in  old  age  as  they  shall  look  back 
upon  their  excursions  to,  and  summer  life  on  the  “ little 
isle  of  the  sea.”  Nor  will  the  novelty  and  relish  of  eating 
the  fish  of  their  own  catching  be  soon  forgotten,  and  in 
the  more  sober  thoughtfulness  of  riper  years  it  will  be  better 
understood  that  these  innumerable  fishes  were  given  us, 
not  to  school  us  in  cruel  insensibility,  but  “richly  to  enjoy.” 
This  is  indicated  even  by  the  silence  of  the  fish  when  cap- 
tured. Were  he  to  utter  a cry  of  distress,  like  a ratdn  a 
steel-trap,  or  a pig  in  the  hands  of  its  owner  — if  a hun- 
dred fish  in  the  boat  were  to  do  this  at  the  same  time  we  can 
imagine  how  great  would  be  the  temptation  of  sensitive 
persons  to  jump  overboard.  But  as  it  is,  all  is  pleasurable. 
The  love  of  fishing  is  to  be  gratified  on  the  same  principle 
of  gratifying  the  love  of  seeing.  Light  is  for  the  eye,  and 
so  are  fish  for  the  fishermen. 

Pond-fishing,  like  that  in  the  yacht  upon  the  sea,  must 
be  free  from  the  etiquette  of  the  drawing-room,  in  some  re- 
spects, to  have  it  pleasant.  Too  strict  a regard  for  one’s 
toilet  can  spoil  all  the  amusement  of  the  boat  and  tackle. 
Clothing  should  be  worn  that  creates  no  painful  anxiety 
about  its  being  soiled  or  torn.  If  the  feet,  hands,  and  arms 
get  wet  — if  the  face  is  browned  in  the  sun  and  wind,  this 
is  a part  of  the  business  and  should  occasion  no  fretting, 
but  rather  innocent  jokes  and  laughter.  Persons  whose 
habit,  or  pleasure  is  that  of  spoiling  the  pleasures  of  others 
should  never  find  a place  in  the  party  fishing  for  pleasure. 
A good  rule  to  act  upon  at  Block  Island  is, 

“ Let  ns  laugh  when  we  may,  be  sober  when  we  can, 

But  vindicate  the  ways  of  God  to  man.” 


SURROUNDING  WATERS. 


41 


SURROUNDING  WATERS. 

Block  Island  Sound  is  the  name  applied  by  the  U.  S.  Coast 
Survey  to  the  body  of  water  lying  north  of  the  Island,  and 
separating  it  from  the  Charlestown  and  W atch  Hill  vicinity, 
and  also  approaching  Point  Judith.  The  narrowest  place 
in  this  Sound,  opposite  Sandy  Point,  is  a little  less  than  ten 
miles  in  width. 

Cow  Cove,  north  of  Chagum  Pond,  was  once  much  more 
distinct  than  at  the  present.  Then  Grove  Point  projected 
much  farther,  but  like  Sandy  Point  has  been  worn  away  by 
the  heavy  seas,  until  but  little  appearance  of  a bay  remains. 
According  to  tradition  the  first  settlers  landed  at  Cow  Cove, 
which  is  said  to  have  taken  its  name  from  the  fact  that 
there  they  put  overboard  the  first  cow  ever  upon  the  Island, 
and  in  presence  of  the  excited  Indians  compelled  her  to 
swim  ashore. 

Briton's  RocJc  designates  the  water  off  Clay  Head  where 
a very  dangerous  rock  is  concealed  in  deep  water,  the  top 
of  which  rises  nearly  to  the  surface.  One  of  the  most  seri- 
ous accidents  in  the  history  of.  the  Islanders  occurred  there 
on  the  9th  of  February,  1797.  Gideon  and  John  Rose, 
brothers,  Samuel  Wright  and  John  Wills,  while  in  their 
boat  laden  with  perch  for  New  York,  were  passing  Clay 
Head  in  a fair  southerly  wind,  and  are  supposed  to  have 
struck  upon  Briton’s  Rock,  for  they  were  there  all  drowned, 
and  by  a change  of  wind  were  all  driven  on  shore  and 
buried  by  their  friends. 

A similar  calamity  to  the  Island  occurred  on  the  night 
of  Feb.  18,  1880.  Then  Captain  Archibald  Millikin,  com- 
mander of  a three-mast  coaster,  Captain  George  Addison 
Rose,  and  Elihu  W.  Rose,  were  drowned  in  Providence 
River  between  Fox  Point  and  Mill  Harbor.  They  were  in 
a small  yawl  boat,  the  night  was  dark  and  windy,  and  they 
are  supposed  to  have  been  capsized.  Their  bodies  were 
recovered  and  buried  by  their  many  mourning  friends. 


42 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


Bloch  Island  Bay  is  the  body  of  water  making  almost  a 
semicircle  of  the  shore  from  Clay  Head  to  the  Breakwater. 
It  has  the  finest  beach  upon  the  Island,  and  in  its  waters 
all  manner  of  vessels  anchor  with  safety,  except  when  the 
wind  comes  into  the  northeast.  Then  there  is  danger 
of  being  land-locked,  or  of  going  ashore.  This  bay  affords 
a beautiful  view,  as  seen  from  the  prominent  points  along 
the  eastern  shore  south  of  the  harbor. 

Old  Harbor  is  opposite  a section  of  the  eastern  shore  ex- 
tending from  the  Breakwater  to  Old  Harbor  Point.  Many 
years  ago,  before  the  Pole  Harbor  was  made,  it  was  a place 
of  frequent  landing  in  fair  weather.  In  that  harbor  was 
the  origin  of  the  “Harbor  Boys  ” legend,  as  related  in  the 
account  of  the  Refugees,  and  one  of  their  ghosts  reappeared 
not  many  years  since,  as  an  old  Islander  was  near  the 
springs  of  the  Spring  House,  and  listened  with  trembling 
to  the’  solemn  voice  which  was  a little  more  grum  than  in 
his  younger  days.  It  was  the  first  time  he  ever  heard  a 
hydraulic  ram,  and  little  imagined  that  his  “Harbor  Boy” 
was  carrying  water  up  to  that  hotel. 

The  Atlantic  Ocean  is  the  designation  for  the  water  from 
Old  Harbor  along  the  eastern  shore  to  the  south  shore,  and 
thence  to  Sandy  Point. 

The  Breach , which  was  once  of  so  great  importance  to 
the  Island,  does  not  now  properly  exist.  At  no  time,  now, 
does  it  connect  the  Great  Pond  with  the  sea,  except  by 
mechanical  labor  to  reduce  the  high  water  in  the  Great 
Pond,  and  this  is  done  by  the  town  to  keep  the  Neck  Road 
passable.  The  easterly  storms  sometimes  drive  the  heavy 
seas  from  the  Block  Island  Bay  over  into  the  Great  Pond, 
and  when  this  occurs  in  connection  with  spring  rains  and 
thaws  the  Neck  Road  becomes  impassable  until  the  Breach 
is  opened. 

During  those  storms  of  high  water  innumerable  fish  in 
the  Great  Pond  have  escaped  into  the  ocean,  and  thousands 


SURROUNDING  WATERS. 


43 


have  been  left  on  the- sand  between  the  Great  Pond  and  the 
Bay,  as  the  water  has  suddenly  receded. 

grace’s  cove. 

This  is  on  the  west  side  of  the  Island,  and  is  formed  by 
a small  projection  of  land  into  the  sea,  and  this  projection 
is  known  as  Grace’s  Point.  The  Cove  is  not  far  from  Sandy 
Hill,  and  has  long  been  a place  for  landing  small  boats. 
Here  the  Mohegans  landed,  it  is  supposed,  when  they  came, 
many  centuries  ago,  from  Stonington  or  Watch  Hill  to  in- 
vade the  Island  by  moonlight  and  were  overpowered  and 
starved  on  the  Mohegan  Bluffs.  Here  the  brig  Moluncus 
came  ashore  in  1855,  and  while  her  captain  and  crew  were 
ashore  bantering  with  wreckers  she  was  got  off  by  wind 
and  tide  in  the  night,  and  in  the  stormy  night  found  by  the 
wreckers. 

dorry’s  cove. 

This  also  is  on  the  west  side,  and  probably  took  its  name 
from  Tormot  Rose  who  was  also  called  Dormot,  and  from 
Dormot  came  Dorry,  and  the  cove  was  named  after  him 
either  because  he  owned  the  land  adjacent,  or  because  of 
an  incident  which  there  occurred.  The  bank  was  precipi-, 
tous  many  years  ago,  when  he  lived  there,  and  he  was  clear- 
ing his  land  of  stones  by  carting  them  with  his  oxen  to  the 
bank  of  the  cove  where  he  dumped  them  down  into  the 
sea.  One  day  while  backing  his  oxen  for  a dump  he  backed 
them  too  far  and  the  cart  loaded  with  stones  went  over  the 
bank  and  took  the  oxen  over  too,  and  one  was  lost  thereby. 
Mr.  Rose  mourned  his  loss  so  much  that  a neighbor  said  to 
him,  — Why,  you  mourn  for  your  ox  more  than  Job  did 
for  the  loss  of  all  of  his.”  The  afflicted  man  replied,  — 
“Well,  Job  never  had  so  likely  an  ox.”  The  Cove  is  at 
the  western  terminus  of  Main  Street. 


44 


BLOCK  ISLAND  COTTAGES. 


BLOCK  ISLAND  COTTAGES. 

The  most  magnificent  of  these,  and  indeed  one  of  the 
finest  of  its  kind  in  the  world,  is  the  elegant  mansion  of 
Mr.  Edward  F.  Searles,  of  Methuen,  Mass.,  who  has  here 
exhausted  all  the  resources  at  the  command  of  almost 
fabulous  wealth  in  the  erection  of  a stately  pile  of  orien- 
tal splendor.  Every  stranger  approaching  the  Island  asks 
many  questions  about  the  imposing  structure,  whose  noble 
dome  glistens  in  the  sunlight  on  the  southern  slojie  of 
the  Corrugated  Bluffs  of  the  Neck. 

On  an  eminence  north  of  Surf  Hotel  is  the  charming 
residence  where  Mrs.  C.  T.  Salisbury  and  her  daughters, 
of  Providence,  R.  I.,  make  their  abode  through  the  sum- 
mer, and  sometimes  linger  through  the  bright  and  balmy 
Neapolitan  weather  of  Block  Island’s  September  and 
October,  leaving  only  when  the  surly  blasts  of  Novem- 
ber sweep  sullenly  over  the  hills. 

Nestling  under  the  edge  of  the  bluff  at  Southeast 
Point,  reminding  one  of  the  eyrie  of  an  eagle  among  the 
mountains  of  Switzerland,  is  the  cosey  cottage  or  chalet 
of  Hon.  F.  W Miner,  of  Providence,  R.  I.,  noted  for 
several  years  as  the  home  from  June  until  October  of 
one  of  the  most  enthusiastic  and  successful  of  fishers  for 
the  gamey  striped  bass. , 

Westward,  a mile  or  so,  stand  the  ideal  hygienic  cot- 
tages of  Miss  Dr.  A.  E.  Vaill,  of  New  York,  who,  with 
her  sister,  has  here  established  a model  sanitarium  known 
as  the  Mecca  of  many  former  invalids.  They  have  here 
breathed  anew  the  breath  of  life  and  health  that  floats 
over  these  towering  bluffs  in  the  eternal  breezes  born  of 
the  near  Atlantic. 

To  the  west,  half  a mile  as  the  bird  flies,  is  the  beauti- 
ful villa  of  Mr.  Everett  N.  Barlow,  of  which  it  is  sufficient 
to  say  that  it  was  selected  by  the  Scientific  American  as 


HISTOBY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


45 


the  subject  of  an  illustration  in  its  architectural  supple- 
ment of  a model  American  seaside  cottage. 

Near  Black  Rock  and  almost  at  the  jumping-off  place 
of  creation  is  the  Ultima  Thule  of  Block  Island’s  sum- 
mer dwellings,  the  cottage  of  Mr.  Thomas  E.  Tripler,  of 
New  York.  Here  nature  seems  to  have  made  one 
supreme  and  final  attempt  to  achieve  perfection,  appear- 
ing at  her  best  in  all  her  varied  moods.  Amid  ocean 
scenery  of  the  most  romantic  kind,  one  is  fanned  from 
May  until  October  by  zephyrs  soft  as  those  of  Tempe’s 
fabled  vale,  while,  when  storms  are  abroad  in  winter,  he 
will  almost  need  to  hold  his  hair  on,  as  is  indicated  by 
those  four  massive  chains  by  which  Mr.  Tripler  has  found 
it  necessary  to  anchor  his  cottage  to  masonry  set  deep  in 
the  earth. 

Other  beautiful  villas  there  are,  only  less  than  the 
above  in  attractiveness  and  interest,  and  the  number  is 
steadily  increasing. 


II. 


AN  ABRIDGED  HISTORY 

OF 

BLOCK  ISLAND 

FROM 

1524  to  1882. 


Rev.  S.  T.  Livermore  A.M. 


46 


HISTOEY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


LOCATION. 

Block  Island  is  located  directly  south  of  the  central  point 
on  the  southern  coast  of  Rhode  Island,  twelve  miles  out 
at  sea,  connected  with  the  main  land  by  a submerged  bar 
well  known  to  navigators.  It  is  southwest  from  Newport 
about  twenty-five  miles,  and  about  eighteen  miles  north  of 
east  from  Montank,  which  is  the  east  end  of  Long  Island. 
By  the  Coast  survey  its  position  is  in  latitude  41°  08'  north, 
longitude  71,J  33'  west.  It  is  sufficiently  remote  from  the 
main  shore,  and  small  enough  to  be  wholly  exempt  from 
the  sultry  land  breezes  of  summer  when  its  refreshing  cool- 
ness is  most  enjoyable. 

DISCOVERY. 

When  this  Island  was  first  discovered  by  the  civilized 
world  no  one  can  state  with  certainty.  Its  first  inhabitants 
known  were  a branch  of  the  Narragansett  Indians.  The 
earliest  record  known  of  its  discovery  was  in  1524,  by 
Verrazano,  a French  navigator.  He  made  a record  of  its 
location  as  being  about  fifty  leagues  east  of  New  York,  and 
three  leagues  from  the  main  land,  and  described  its  shape 
as  triangular,  “ full  of  hills,  covered  with  trees.” 

Ninety  years  afterward  the  Island  was  visited  by  Adrian 
Block,  a Dutch  explorer,  whose  name  is  supposed  to  have 
been  given  to  it  by  his  crew,  or  by  himself.  They  were 
probably  the  first  civilized  men  who  landed  upon  its  shores. 
Their  French  predecessors  seem  to  have  sailed  about  it, 
as  their  account  of  it  speaks  of  their  having  seen  “ fires 
all  along  the  coast  ” of  the  Island. 

In  1636  Captain  John  Oldham,  a trader  from  Boston, 
visited  the  Island  where  he  lost  his  life  by  the  savages  who, 
the  ancient  record  says,  “ came  into  his  boat,  and  having 
got, a full  view  of  commodities  which  gave  them  good  con- 
tent consulted  how  they  might  destroy  him  and  his  company, 
to  the  end  they  might  clothe  their  bloody  flesh  with  his  law- 


ITS  POSSESSION. 


47 


ful  garments.”  By  Iris  death,  the  Island  became  extensively 
known  throughout  New  England  and  Europe. 

ITS  POSSESSION. 

1.  By  the  Aborigines.  2.  By  Massachusetts.  3.  By 
four  men.  4.  By  the  first  settlers  and  their  descendants. 

Its  first  owners  of  whom  we  have  any  account  were  the 
Narragansett  Indians,  and  as  they  were  a powerful  tribe, 
occupying  the  main  land  nearest  to  the  Island,  we  may  sup- 
pose them  to  have  held  it  for  centuries  previous  to  its  dis- 
covery. Soon  after  the  murder  of  Oldham  it  was  subju- 
gated by  Colonel  Endicott,  under  authority  from  Massachu- 
setts, as  a punishment  for  that  murder,  and  its  possession 
by  that  colony  was  acknowledged  to  Governor  Yane  in 
1637  by  the  Chief  Miantinomo,  the  great  Sachem  of  the 
Narragansetts.  Of  this  transfer  Governor  Winthrop  said 
in  1637, — “Miantinomo,  the  Narragansett  Sachem,  came 
to  Boston.  The  governor,  deputy,  and  treasurer  treated 
with  him,  and  they  parted  upon  fair  terms.  He  acknowl- 
edged that  all  the  Pequod  country  and  Block  Island  were 
ours,  and  promised  that  he  would  not  meddle  with  them  but 
by  our  leave.”  But  what  had  that  chief  to  do  with  the 
Pequod  country  ? Roger  Williams  was  intimately  acquaint- 
ed with  the  natives  of  Block  Island  before  it  was  settled  by 
the  English,  and  in  1637  wrote  to  Governor  Winthrop  that 
they  had  obligated  themselves  to  pay  a tax  to  Massachu- 
setts, and  its  subjects,  of  one  hundred  fathoms  of  beads  or 
wampum  annually.  In  1658  the  Island  was  transferred 
from  said  colony  to  John  Endicott,  Richard  Bellingham, 
Daniel  Dennison,  and  William  Hawthorne,  and  in  1660  they 
sold  it  to  sixteen  individuals  for  £400,  and  these  last  pur- 
chasers had  the  Island  surveyed  and  apportioned  to  each 
buyer  in  1661,  and  in  1662,  with  their  families,  their  sailing 
vessels  built  at  Braintree,  near  Boston,  having  been  sailed 
around  Cape  Cod  to  Taunton  to  meet  the  emigrants,  there 


48 


HTSTOHY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


embarked,  passed  down  the  Taunton  River,  and  thence  to 
the  Island  where  they  and  their  descendants  have  since 
remained  and  prospered. 

ITS  NAMES. 

Manisses  was  its  original  and  Indian  name,  signifying 
“ Little  God,”  or  “•  Little  God’s  Island.”  This  also  was  the 
name  of  its  first  inhabitants  of  whom  we  have  any  knowl- 
edge. Its  origin  and  first  application  to  the  Island  will 
ever  remain  one  of  the  hidden  mysteries  of  the  Aborigines. 

Claudia  was  its  first  civilized  name,  given  to  it  by  Ver- 
razzano  in  1524  in  honor  of  the  mother  of  Francis  I,  king 
of  France. 

Adrian's  Eyland  was  the  name  put  upon  the  Dutch  maps 
in  161 4.  This  is  essentially  the  same  as  the  name  now  in 
use,  and  was  modified  by  the  colonists  to 

Block  Island.  This  name  continued  in  use,  unaltered  by 
its  English  occupants  and  others  until  1672,  and  will  prob- 
ably never  be  supplanted,  unless  the  more  euphonic  and 
ancient  Manisses  shall  be  resumed. 

New  Shoreham,  alias  Block  Island , was  the  name  incor- 
porated into  the  town  charter  of  the  Island  in  1672,  and 
for  about  two  hundred  years  this  prefix  had  the  monopoly. 
It  was  adopted  in  said  charter  as  a reminder  of  places  in 
England  dear  to  the  memory  of  the  Islanders,  or  as  they 
expressed  it — “ As  signs  of  our  unity  and  likeness  to  many 
parts  of  our  native  country.”  The  final  syllable  ham, 
meaning  house,  farm,  or  village , is  very  common  in  England. 

The  Ministerial  lands  is  another  name  of  the  Island  that 
was  somewhat  common  anciently,  and  is  very  significant 
of  the  character  of  the  little  colony  there  who,  when  they 
surveyed  the  land  for  themselves  in  1661,  also  apportioned 
a part  for  the  support  of  the  gospel  among  them,  and  that 
land  they  said  should  11  continue  for  that  use  for  ever." 

Block-house  Island,  on  an  old  map  in  the  State  Library  at 


ITS  SURFACE  AND  PRODUCTS. 


49 


Albany,  printed  in  Augsburg  in  1777,  originated  from 
the  “topographical  observations  of  0.  J.  Southier,”  and  he 
probably  imagined  its  origin  to  be  from  that  kind  of  a 
house  then  common  in  the  colonies,  and  upon  his  own  au- 
thority appended  the  word  house. 

The  last  modification  of  this  name  has  been  the  recent 
change  in  the  Post  Office  Department  where  it  is  now  sim- 
ply Block  Island. 

t 

ITS  SURFACE  AND  PRODUCTS. 

“It  was  full  of  hills,”  was  the  French  navigator’s  de- 
scription in  1524,  and  none,  better,  perhaps,  can  be  given. 
A more  uneven  surface  but  ■few,  if  any,  have  ever  seen.  It 
will  be  very  difficult  to  find  its  equal,  except  as  one  looks  at 
the  ocean  when  its  surface  is  covered  with  one  tidal  wave 
followed  by  another,  on  and  between  both  of  which  are  in- 
numerable regular  and  chop  waves  of  all  dimensions.  Be- 
tween these  little  hills  are  hundreds  of  ponds,  while  the 
Great  Pond  in  relation  to  the  Island  is  an  inland  sea.  The 
multitude  of  walls  which  now  fence  the  little  farms  there 
indicate  the  inconvenience  of  cultivating  the  soil  by  the 
early  settlers.  No  ledges  there  have  yet  been  discovered, 
but  granite  boulders  and  pebbles  without  number,  in  a soil 
naturally  quick  and  productive. 

Three  and  a half  centuries  ago  the  Island  was  “covered 
with  trees.”  When  taken  from  the  Indians  in  1637  it  was 
well  timbered  and  had  two  large  cornfields  protected  on 
all  sides  by  forests.  One  of  these  was  on  the  southerly 
part,  and  the  other  on  the  northerly  part  known  by  the 
early  settlers  as  the  “ Corne  Neck,”  and  now  called  The 
Neck.  The  first  settlers  for  sixty  years  had  timber  sufficient 
for  buildings,  fences,  and  fuel,  but  peat  was  almost  the  only 
material  for  “firing”  from  1760  to  1860.  and  it  is  still 
abundant  in  many  of  nature’s  pockets  between  the  hills  of 
the  Island,  while  of  but  few  can  it  now  be  said,  — 


50 


HISTORY1  OF  BLOCK.  ISLAND. 


“ Old  wives  spinning  their  webs  of  tow, 

Or  rocking  weirdly  to  and  fro 
In  and  out  of  the  peal’s  dull  glow.” 

The  products  of  the  Island  during  the  last  hundred  years 
have  not  been  sufficient  to  give  support  and  thrift  to  its 
dense  population,  although  its  soil  has  been  well  nourished 
with  fish  offal  and  about  10,000  loads  of  sea- weed  annually. 
Its  noted  fisheries  have  ever  been  a principal  support  and 
source  of  revenue  to  its  inhabitants,  who  have  found  a 
ready  market  in  many  cities  along  the  neighboring  coast, 
until  its  attractiveness  as  a summer  resort  has  created  a 
large  home  demand  in  the  watering  season.  A detailed 
account  of  its  resources  — gmin,  fish,  sea-moss,  poultry, 
eggs,  etc.,  may  be  seen  in  its  history  published  in  1 87T. 

THE  INHABITANTS. 

They  are  of  English  descent,  of  the  Roger  Williams  stamp, 
and  have  maintained  their  identity  as  a colony  with  remark- 
able tenacity.  In  LSI!  their  population  was  1,147 ; 1, 138  of 
whom  were  American  born,  and  1,032  were  born  upon  the 
Island.  Where  is  there  another  such  a locality  ? The 
men  are  hardy,  industrious,  and  brave  sailors.  They  live 
better  than  the  average  of  country  people.  In  1877  there 
were  110  in  619  adults  who  were  over  60  years  old. 

Intellectually  the  men  are  in  advance  of  those  in  country 
towns  generally.  Their  trading  excursions  along  the  main 
coast  from  Portland  to  New  York  have  given  them  good 
opportunities  for  observing  men  and  things,  and  in  latter 
years  much  of  the  outside  world  in  various  phases  has  come 
to  them  in  pursuit  of  health  and  pleasure.  They  are  all 
skilled  in  the  art  of  driving  a good  bargain,  and  have  the 
faculty  of  keeping  what  they  have  gained,  which  with  their 
industry  makes  them  a very  independent  people.  They 
are  rapidly  improving  in  educational  interests,  as  evinced 
by  their  new  and  well  appointed  school  houses.  They  are 


51 


THE  INHABITANTS. 

far  more  courageous  as  sailors  than  otherwise.  They  have 
never  had  a jail  nor  a resident  lawyer.  Chief  "Warden 
Wm.  P.  Lewis,  in  1877  had  tried  100  cases,  80  civil,  20 
criminal,  without  a lawyer  except  in  one  case,  and  then  he 
was  defeated. 

The  Women  of  the  Island  have  been  noted  for  their  in 
dusty  and  devotion  to  the  domestic  relations.  Vigorous, 
virtuous,  dignified  and  genial,  they  have  heartily  cooperated 
with  the  men  in  obtaining  a livelihood,  and  in  promoting 
the  welfare  of  society.  Tidy,  but- not  gaudy;  frank,  but 
never  simpering,  what  they  have  lacked  in  refined  educa- 
tion has  been  compensated  for  by  a large  supply  of  common 
sense  and  native  genius.  Some  of  them  have  well  improv- 
ed their  advantages  in  schools  abroad,  and  the  boys  and 
girls  of  the  rising  generation  are  obtaining  a degree  of  in- 
telligence and  refinement  quite  in  advance  of  former  gener- 
ations. 

The  morals  of  the  Islanders  will  compare  favorably  with 
any  other  locality  of  equal  population.  Their  self  imposed 
taxes  for  educational  and  religious  purposes  have  been  con- 
siderably heavier  than  the  average  of  such  taxes  on  the 
main  land.  Indeed,  the  first  settlers  were  distinguished  by 
their  intelligence  and  good  morals,  and  as  such  attracted 
the  attention  of  Benjamin  Franklin,  Major-General  Greene, 
and  others  of  distinction.  The  wife  of  Simon  Ray,  jr., 
was  the  granddaughter  of  Roger  Williams,  and  this  Mr. 
Ray  and  his  father  were  the  resident,  unordained  ministers 
of  the  Island  ninety  years.  Anna  Ray  married  Governor 
Samuel  Ward  of  Rhode  Island,  and  her  sister  Catharine 
married  Governor  William  Greene,  of  the  same  state,  and 
as  they  had  no  brothers  their  family  disappeared,  but  their 
good  influence  has  been  perpetuated  with  the  surname 
Ray , so  common  among  the  Islanders,  until  the  present. 
Much  might  be  said,  too,  of  the  moral  power  of  James 
3 


52 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


Sands,  a leading  man  among  tlie  first  settlers  whose  descen- 
dants are  still  upon  the  Island,  and  much  respected. 

HOSTILITIES. 

Casual  visitors  there  little  imagine  the  hostile  scenes  that 
have  been  enacted  where  they  now  see  only  the  signs  of  peace 
and  pleasure.  More  detailed  accounts  of  them  may  be  found 
in  the  History  of  Block  Island  than  can  here  be  given. 
The  rich  cornfields  three  centuries  ago,  the  ample  fishing 
grounds  on  and  around  the  Island,  the  abundance  of  fowls 
there,  especially  those  migrating  in  spring  and  fall,  and  the 
exhaustless  stores  of  scallops  and  oysters  then  in  the  Great 
Pond,  made  the  ancient  Manisses  a tempting  bone  of  con- 
tention between  the  Narragansetts,  Mohegans,  andPequots. 
The  natives  used  to  relate  to  the  early  settlers  strange  and 
bloody  conflicts  between  these  hostile  tribes.  At  one  time 
the  Island  Indians,  many  centuries  ago,  started  on  an  expe- 
dition, in  their  canoes,  against  the  Mohegans  forty  miles 
distant,  on  the  main  land.  At  the  same  time,  by  moon- 
light, the  Mohegans  launched  their  fleet  of  canoes  for  the 
Island,  but  were  first  discovered  by  the  Islanders  who  had 
the  reflection  of  the  light  in  their  favor,  and  they  therefore 
put  back,  hauled  their  canoes  ashore  and  hid  them,  and 
then  lay  in  ambush  for  the  Mohegans  who  landed,  marched 
into  the  interior  while  their  canoes  were  smashed,  and  their 
retreat  was  cut  off  by  the  Islanders  who  pursued  the  invad- 
ers, drove  them  to  the  Mohegan  Bluffs,  so  named  from  this 
affair,  and  there  hemmed  them  in  until  they  perished  from 
starvation.  At  that  point  in  1760,  was  an  earth -work  called 
the  Mohegan  Fort,  and  unless  it  has  sloughed  off  into  the 
sea  by  the  action  of  frost  and  tides  a relic  of  it  may  yet 
be  discovered.  The  savage  appearance  of  the  warriors 
whose  wigwams  once  occupied  the  places  where  hotels  and 
private  residences  are  now  standing  is  indicated  by  a Mr. 
Vincent  who,  centuries  ago,  described  the  Pequots  as 


HOSTILITIES. 


53 


“ Straight  and  tall,  of  limbs  big  and  strong,  seldom  seen 
violent  or  extreme  in  any  passion.  Naked  they  go,  except 
a skin  about  their  waist,  and  sometimes  a mantle  about  their 
shoulders.  Armed  they  are  with  bows  and  arrows,  clubs, 
javelins,  etc.” 

Besides  the  savage  wars  among  the  Indians  themselves, 
new  hostilities  occurred  between  them  and  the  English  soon 
after  the  settlement  of  the  colonies.  In  163G  the  Indians 
murdered  Captain  John  Oldham  near  Sandy  Point,  in  his 
vessel,  for  which  barbarity  the  savages  were  severely  pun- 
ished by  Massachusetts  soon  after  by  the  invasion  of  Col. 
John  Endicott,  whose  little  fleet  bore  to  their  shores  the  first 
firearms  known  upon  the  Island.  The  expedition  was  two- 
fold, to  “ do  justice  unto  the  Indians  for  the  murder  of  Mr. 
Oldham,”  and  to  seize  and  hold  the  Island  by  right  of  con- 
quest. After  the  little  army  had  been  absent  from  Boston 
six  weeks  one  of  its  soldiers,  Israel  Stoughton,  wrote  back 
to  a friend,  — '■  ¥e  are  now  ready  for  Block  Island,  only 
we  wait  for  a fair  wind.  We  are  informed  of  many  In- 
dians there,  so  we  expect  the  toughest  work  we  have  had 
yet.”  The  fair  N.  E.  wind  came  and  bore  away  their  fleet 
to  its  destination  along  the  bathing  beach  of  the  Island 
where  they  anchored,  and  found  much  difficulty  in  wading 
ashore  on  account  of  the  surf.  Endicott’s  men  were  met 
by  a volley  of  arrows  from  about  forty  Indians  who  quickly 
fled  when  they  heard  the  volley  of  muskets  and  saw  their 
deadly  effects.  The  invaders  burned  about  sixty  wigwams, 
“ their  mats,  and  some  corn,  and  staved  seven  canoes,  and 
departed,”  doubtless  with  a good  supply  of  plunder.  The 
conquest,  however,  was  not  completed  until  a second  expe- 
dition under  the  above-named  Stoughton  in  1 G3  7,  who  landed 
his  forces  there  in  the  night,  killed  a few  of  the  natives, 
burnt  a few  wigwams,  “ came  to  parley,”  made  a treaty  of 
subjugation  by  which  the  Indians  were  to  pay  a tribute  of 
“ one  hundred  fathom  of  wampum  peague  ” [beads]  to 


54 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


Massachusetts  annually.  This  treaty  became  void  when 
the  Island  passed  into  the  possession  of  the  little  colony  by 
whose  descendants  it  is  now  occupied. 

The  second,  and  last  hostile  demonstrations  on  the  Island, 
in  which  the  Indians  were  a party,  was  within  a few  years 
after  its  settlement.  Conscious  of  their  greater  numbers  and 
power,  the  sixteen  families  were  looked  upon  as  intruders, 
far  away  from  allies,  and  a constant  temptation  to  the  flint 
arrow,  the  tomahawk,  and  the  scalping  knife.  Moreover, 
traders  sold  firearms  and  fire-water  to  the  Indians,  and  thus 
imperiled  the  infant  colony.  Individual  collisions  occurred. 
Precautions  were  taken  by  the  settlers.  They  established  a 
little  garrison,  threw  up  an  earth-work  still  to  be  seen  near 
the  bridge  on  the  road  from  the  Harbor  to  the  Center. 
They  had  a counsel  of  war,  and  decided  that  their  safety  de- 
pended upon  their  bravery  and  fearless  appearance.  By 
mustering  in  all  their  forces  they  raised  an  army  of  sixteen 
men  and  a boy.  Thomas  Terry,  then  one  of  the  proprie- 
tors, full  of  the  military  spirit,  and  the  ancestor  of  the  many 
Terrys  since  then  distinguished  for  their  bravery,  and  others 
agreed  to  challenge  all  the  Indian  warriors  on  the  Island  to 
a pitched  battle.  This  was  done,  the  challenge  accepted, 
the  day  fixed,  and  preparations  made  for  the  fight.  The 
day  came,  and  with  it  thirty  strange  Indians  from  the  main 
land  with  new  guns.  Terry,  in  the  morning,  met  them  as 
they  came  from  the  east  shore  near  Clay  Head  towards 
Indian-Head-Neck.  He  halted  them,  questioned  them 
closely,  forbade  their  advance,  disarmed  them  one  by  one, 
put  their  guns  into  his  house  near  by  until  they  should  re- 
turn, made  them  sit  down  until  he  had  passed  the  fort  on 
Fort  Island  where  the  Indians  had  assembled  for  the  battle. 
To  that  Fort  the  strange  Indians  were  then  welcomed  with 
the  most  savage  yells  of  applause.  But  the  little  army  of 
seventeen,  undaunted  marched  boldly  within  arrow  shot  of 
the  Fort,  led  by  the  music  of  a single  drum  briskly  played 


THE  FRENCH; 


55 


by  a Mr.  Kent,  (who  afterwards  moved  to  Swansea),  and 
there  they  repeated  their  challenge,  but  no  enemy  came  out 
to  fight,  the  hand  of  peace  was  shaken,  and  both  parties 
were  friendly  thereafter.  (See  detailed  account  in  History, 
under  “ Thomas  Terry.”) 

THE  FRENCH. 

The  French  Hostilities,  about  the  year  1690,  were  very 
damaging  to  Block  Island.  At  that  time  France  and  Eng- 
land were  at  war,  and  to  fight  the  New  England  colonies 
then  was  to  fight  England,  and  the  position  of  the  Island 
was  favorable  to  the  enemy,  and  its  commodities  of  grain, 
cattle,  and  poultry  were  tempting  to  the  French  privateers. 
In  Newport  the  approach  of  the  enemy  was  “proclaimed  by 
beat  of  drum,”  and  the  threatened  danger  from  abroad, 
added  to  that  of  perils-  from  the  natives  at  home,  caused  a 
tax  on  the  Island,  in  May,  1690,  of  £17  10s.  “for  the  sup- 
port of  their  majesty’s  interest  against  the  French  and  In- 
dian enemies.” 

William  Trimming’s  invasion  for  plunder  was  very  dis- 
astrous to  the  Island.  In  July,  1689,  he  entered  the  Bay 
with  “ a large  bark,  a barge,  a large  sloop,  and  a lesser 
one,”  and  by  his  fluent  English  made  the  armed  Islanders 
belie  /e  that  he  was  George  Austin,  a noted  English  priva- 
teer. Under  this  deception  he  landed  his  marines,  whose 
guns  were  concealed  in  their  boats  until  they  reached  the 
shore,  when  they  suddenly  attacked  and  obtained  control 
of  the  Island.  The  captured  soldiers  were  imprisoned  in 
Captain  James  Sand’s  stone  house,  and  their  guns  were 
broken  to  pieces  on  the  rocks  by  the  French,  and  a general 
pillage  of  the  Island  followed,  killing  cattle  for  food,  and 
also  to  impoverish  the  inhabitants,  one  of  whom  made  this 
record, — “ They  continued  about  a week  on  the  Island, 
plundering  houses,  stripping  the  people  of  their  clothing, 
ripping  up  beds,  throwing  out  the  feathers,  and  carrying 


56 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


away  the  ticking.”  A Frenchman  insulted  the  wife  of  the 
Quaker  physician,  Dr.  John  Rodman,  then  described  as  “a 
very  desirable  gentlewoman.”  The  Quaker  sprang  between 
them,  the  ruffian  cocked  his  pistol  at  him,  while  the  latter 
bared  his  bosom  and  deliberately  said, — “Thee  may  do  it 
if  thou  pleasest,  but  thou  shalt  not  abuse  my  wife.” 

This  invasion  aroused  the  colonies,  and  men-of-war  from 
Boston  and  New  York  were  sent  to  the  rescue.  The  hostile 
fleet  was  scattered,  a part  of  it  captured,  and  the  perfidious 
Trimming  was  killed  on  Fisher’s  Island. 

A second  visit  from  the  French  before  the  close  of  the 
year  1689  occurred  in  the  night,  with  consequences  similar 
to  the  former,  but  probably  more  terrifying  to  the  inhabi- 
tants. One  of  them,  many  years  afterwards  known  as  the 
venerable  Samuel  Niles  of  Braintree,  Mass.,  then  suffered 
in  person  more  than  any  other,  of  which  he  says, — “ I 
suppose  I was  the  greatest  sufferer  of  any  under  their 
hands  at  that  time;  for  before  I had  dressed  myself  one  of 
their  company  rushed  into  the  chamber  where  I lodged. 
Being  alone,  without  any  of  his  company,  not  knowing 
what  dangers  might  befal  him,  on  a sudden,  and  with  a 
different  air,  he  says  to  me,  :G-o  down,  you  dog.’  To  which 
I replied,  1 Presently,  as  soon  as  I have  put  on  my  stockings 
and  shoes.’  At  which,  with  the  muzzle  of  his  gun  he  gave 
me  a violent  thrust  at  the  pit  of  my  stomach,  that  it  threw 
me  back  on  the  bed,  as  I was  sitting  on  the  bed-side,  so 
that  it  was  some  time  before  I could  recover  my  breath. 
He  drew  his  cutlass  and  beat  me,  smiting  me  with  all  his 
power,  to  the  head  of  the  stairs,  and  it  was  a very  large 
chamber.  He  followed  me  down  the  stairs,  and  then  bound 
my  hands  behind  me  with  a sharp,  small  line,  which  soon 
made  my  hands  swell  and  become  painful.” 

The  Frenchman  must  have  struck  with  the  flat  side  of 
his  cutlass,  and  probably  hit  where  no  bones  were  broken, 
or  Mr.  Niles  would  have  described  minutely  the  fracture. 


THE  FRENCH. 


57 


A third  hostile  demonstration  from  the  French  occurred 
on  Sunday,  without  any  opposition.  The  inhabitants  con- 
cealed themselves  as  best  they  could,  some  “betaking 
themselves  to  the  woods  for  shelter.”  The  stay  of  the 
enemy  was  short,  as  they  soon  saw  the  approach  of  the 
English  man-of-war  Nonesuch,  under  command  of  Capt. 
Dobbins.  After  they  had  hastened  from  the  headquarters 
of  the  Island  an  eyewitness  made  this  record, — “ We  went 
boldly  (?)  to  the  house,  and  found  the  floor  covered  with 
geese,  with  blood  and  feathers;  the  quarters  of  the  hogs 
they  had  killed  hanging  up  in  one  and  another  part  of  the 
house — a melancholy  sight  to  behold!  Their  manner  of 
dressing  hogs  after  they  had  quartered  them  was  to  singe 
off  the  hair  over  a flame;  and  their  method  to  command 
the  cattle  was  (as  I saw  when  they  took  us  before)  to  thrust 
their  cutlasses  in  at  their  loins,  and  on  a sudden  the  hind 
quarter  would  drop  down,  and  as  the  poor  creature  strove 
to  go  forward,  the  blood  would  spout  out  of  the  hole,  and 
fly  up  near  or  full  a yard  in  height.” 

These  repeated  invasions  caused  but  little  personal  injury, 
while  they  were  very  damaging  to  property,  and  were 
very  terrifying  to  all  the  Islanders.  A fourth  and  similar 
demonstration  was  made  upon  this  unprotected  “isle  of  the 
sea,”  either  by  the  French,  or  by  pirates.  They  were 
bravely  repulsed  “in  an  open  pitched  battle,  and  driven  off 
from  the  shore,”  while  the  victors  escaped  injury,  “except 
one  man  slightly  wounded  in  his  finger.”  The  battlefield 
was  probably  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Harbor,  as  vessels 
usually  anchored  in  the  Bay. 

During  this  hostile  period  of  about  twenty-five  years  the 
condition  of  the  Islanders  may  be  seen  in  their  petition  to 
the  “ General  Assembly  of  Rhode  Island  and  Providence 
Plantations the  first  few  lines  of  which  are  here  given: — 
“ The  humble  petition  of  the  poor  distressed  Inhabitants  of 
Block  Island  which  expect  daily  No  other  than  to  be 


58 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


Invaded,  our  houses  demolished,  our  persons  and  Estates 
become  a prey  to  the  enemy  If  no  other  assistance  can  be 
had  than  what  we  can  raise  within  ourselves.”  Twenty 
years  now  passed  away  without  any  special  alarm,  until  the 
18th  of  April,  1717,  when  a strange  sloop  of  the  largest 
class  anchored  in  the  Bay,  and  some  of  the  crew  came 
ashore,  and  then  with  fresh  supplies  returned  peacefully  to 
their  vessels  accompanied  by  the  Islanders.  This  sloop, 
with  some  reason,  may  be  supposed  to  have  belonged  to 
the  pirate  Captain  Kidd.  It  was  under  command  of  one 
then  named  Williams.  His  conduct,  like  Kidd’s,  was  a mix- 
ture of  humanity  and  barbarism,  for  just  before  weighing 
anchor,  after  the  boat  containing  the  Islanders  had  gone 
from  the  sloop  part  way  to  the  shore,  they  were  compelled 
to  go  back  to  the  sloop,  and  there  three  of  their  num- 
ber, “ George  Mitchell,  William  Toesb,  and  Doctor  James 
Sweete,”  were  kidnapped  by  these  pirates  and  what  became 
of  them  is  a mystery. 

From  the  beginning  of  the  seventeenth  century  to  the 
Revolution  of  1776  the  Island  enjoyed  a good  degree  of 
peace  and  prosperity. 

REVOLUTIONARY. 

The  Revolutionary  Hostilities  were  by  far  the  most  dam- 
aging to  the  Island  of  any  that  have  ever  occurred.  No 
braver  resolutions  were  passed  in  the  colonies  than  those 
which  Block  Island  put  upon  her  record  at  a town  meeting 
held  March  2,  1774.  (See  History,  page  88.)  No  other 
place  was  exposed  to  greater  dangers,  and  yet  the  patriotic 
Islanders  put  their  property,  lives,  and  sacred  honor  as 
patriotically  upon  their  country’s  altar  as  did  the  signers 
of  the  Declaration  of  Independence.  As  the  war-cloud 
thickened  it  enwrapped  the  little  Island  in  two-fold  dark- 
ness, as  it  was  soon  after  more  thoroughly  sacked  by  the 
mother  colony  than  it  ever  had  been  by  the  French  priva- 


RETOLD  TIONARY. 


59 


teers,  and  then  was  left  by  her  to  the  cruel  mercies  of  the 
approaching  hostile  ships  of  England.  One  hundred  years 
it  had  been  represented  in  her  General  Assembly,  and  had 
paid  taxes  into  her  treasury.  One  hundred  years  it  had 
maintained  good  order,  and  some  of  its  families  stood  in 
the  first  ranks  of  society,  but  now,  when  help  and  sympathy 
were  most  needed,  none  could  be  given. 

In  August,  1775,  the  Rhode  Island  Assembly  passed  an 
act  that  took  from  the  Islanders  all  the  cattle  and  sheep  not 
then  needed  there  for  immediate  subsistence,  and  enacted 
“ that  two  hundred  and  fifty  men  be  sent  upon  that  Island 
to  secure  the  stock  until  it  can  be  brought  off.”  About  2000 
sheep  and  lambs  were  thus  taken  from  their  owners  to- 
gether with  many  cows  and  oxen.  Many  a tear,  doubtless, 
was  shed  as  these  familiar  animals,  many  of  them  pets  of 
women  and  children,  were  taken  away.  In  February  of 
the  next  year,  1776,  another  act  by  the  R.  I.  Assembly  was 
passed  to  impoverish  the  Island  still  more  by  taking  from 
it  more  sheep  and  cattle,  and  its  firearms  and  all  its  military 
stores.  Some  compensation  was  allowed  by  the  mother 
colony.  'While  Joseph  Dennison  2d  was  transporting  in 
the  schooner  Folly  the  stock  to  the  main  all  were  captured 
by  the  British.  About  this  time  the  colony  sent  Jonathan 
Hazard  to  the  Island  with  instructions  to  “ earnestly  exhort 
the  inhabitants  to  remove  from  the  Island.”  This  was  soon 
followed  by  an  act  forbidding  them  to  land  on  the  Rhode 
Island  coast,  except  to  become  citizens  on  the  main,  under 
penalty  of  fine  and  imprisonment,  and  all  inhabitants  of  the 
State  were  empowered  to  arrest  and  lodge  in  jail  any  such 
intruder  from  the  Island.  Indeed,  Block  Island,  at  the 
beginning  of  the  Revolution,  loyal  as  it  was  to  the  cause  of 
liberty,  was  first  thoroughly  sacked,  and  then  virtually  ban- 
ished by  its  mother  colony.  This  was  the  result  of  a mili- 
tary necessity,  as  it  could  not  be  protected  by  her,  and  as  its 
resources  left  there  would  have  been  captured  by  the  ene- 


60 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


my,  and  the  Island,  as  stated  in  the  bill  of  excommunica- 
tion, was  “ entirely  in  the  power  of  the  enemy.”  The  fish- 
lines, and  samp-mortars,  hand  cards,  and  spinning-wheels, 
were  left  to  the  Islanders.  Cut  off  from  groceries,  from 
mechanic  shops,  from  flour  mills,  from  all  markets,  and 
left  to  the  mercy  of  an  enemy  whose  ships  were  constantly 
hovering  around  her  shores,  the  little  isolated  colony  braved 
the  terrors  of  the  situation  as  nobly  as  any  band  of  Spar- 
tans found  upon  the  pages  of  history.  A¥ e have  no  record 
of  a murmur  from  their  lips  against  the  mother  colony, 
nor  of  an  act  that  indicates  a regret  of  their  patriotic  offer- 
ing of  their  all  upon  the  altar  of  liberty.  But  their  situa- 
tion, painful  in  the  extreme,  heroically  endured,  was  too 
pitiful  for  endurance  on  the  main  land,  and  it  awakened 
the  deepest  sympathies  from  the  parent  colony  whose  As- 
sembly relaxed  its  stringency,  and  allowed,  in  1777,  a limit- 
ed communication  to  be  resumed.  The  last  act  of  coloni- 
al severity  towards  the  Island  was  in  February,  1779,  and 
that  act  fell  upon  the  already  scathed  and  isolated  few  like 
the  crash  of  a thunderbolt,  whose  force  was  partially  spent 
upon  Waite  Saunders,  Thomas  Carpenter,  and  Peleg  Hoxie 
of  Kings  county  of  R.  I.,  as  they  were  arrested  for  “having 
carried  on  an  illicit  commerce  with  the  inhabitants  of  New 
Shoreham,”  i.  e.  Block  Island.  Their  conviction  would  of 
course  implicate  also  the  Islanders  of  whom  “ Wm.  Gorton, 
Robert  Champlin,  John  Cross,  Samuel  Taylor,  Simon  Little- 
field, Joseph  Sands,  John  Paine,  Stephen  Franklin,  Edward 
Sands,  and  Robert  Congdon,”  were  summoned  to  appear 
immediately  before  the  Assembly,  “ upon  the  penalty  of 
£150,  lawful  money  each,  for  non-appearance.”  Whether 
these  principal  men  of  the  Island  were  convicted  of  partici- 
pating in  said  “ illicit  commerce,”  or  what  the  result  of  the 
investigation  was  we  have  not  been  able  to  ascertain.  No 
doubt  there  were  some  upon  the  Island  whose  extremities 
made  them  yield  to  the  temptations  of  British  bribes,  and 


REFUGEES. 


61 


for  this  reason,  in  one  of  its  preambles,  the  General  Assem- 
bly of  Khode  Island  made  this  record  : — ■ “ Whereas,  the 
said  town  of  New  Shoreham  hath  been  for  a long  time,  and 
still  is,  within  the  power  and  jurisdiction  of  the  enemies  of 
the  United  States,  whereby  they  obtain,  in  consequence  of 
the  evil  practices  aforesaid,  supplies  for  themselves,  and  in- 
telligence from  time  to  time  of  the  situation  of  our  troops, 
posts,  and  shores  ; by  which  means  they  are  enabled  to 
make  frequent  incursions,  and  thereby  commit  devastations 
upon,  and  rob  the  innocent  inhabitants  of  their  property, 
and  deprive  them  of  their  subsistence  ; wherefore, 

Be  it  enacted,  etc.”  Suspicions  were  sharpened  against 
the  Islanders  in  September,  1779,  when  a British  vessel 
was  captured  by  an  American  privateer,  and  whom  should 
our  brave  sailors  find  upon  the  decks  of  their  prize  but  two 
Block  Islanders  — John  Eose  and  Frederick  W yllis  ! They 
were  arrested  by  the  sheriff,  delivered  to  Col.  Christopher 
Greene,  and  by  him  passed  over  to  Maj.  Gen.  Gates  to  be 
treated  as  prisoners  of  war.  In  May  of  1779  Stephen 
Franklin,  an  Islander,  was  arraigned  before  the  General 
Assembly  for  complicity  with  the  British,  and  passed  over 
to  Gen.  Gates  to  be  tried  as  a spy. 

REFUGEES. 

In  addition  to  the  troubles  from  the  mother  colony  and 
from  the  British  during  the  revolution  the  Island  was  kept  - 
in  almost  constant  alarm  by  a class  of  persons  known  as 
Refugees.  They  were  deserters  mainly  from  both  armies, 
and  were  perfect  desperadoes,  going  singly,  or  in  bands, 
unprincipled  and  cruel  in  their  demands.  One  of  these  out- 
laws entered  a house  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Littlefield  Wind- 
Mill.  He  was  seen  by  the  watchful  inmates  at  a little  dis- 
ance.  The  husband  hid  up-stairs  in  a pile  of  flax.  The 
refugee  entered,  and  among  his  insolent  inquiries  said  to 
the  wife,  — “Where  is  your  husband?”  She  answered 


62 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


sharply,  “ I haven’t  any  ! ” She  probably  considered  him 
divorced  while  concealed  in  the  flax.  A few  more  in- 
solent inquiries  banished  her  fears  and  filled  her  with  in- 
dignation, and  as  he  was  about  to  break  open  a chest  in  the 
corner  she  seized  her  scissors,  and  flew  at  him  with  the 
pointed  blade  in  position  to  stab,  exclaiming  in  terrific  tones, 
— “ Get  out  of  this  house,  you  infernal  villain,  or  I’ll  kill 
you  with  these  scissors  ! ” As  he  was  not  prepared  for  his 
“ quietus  with  a bodkin,”  the  next  act  in  the  almost  tragic 
scene  was  — Exit  Refugee. 

At  another  time  a whole  band  of  refugees  approached 
the  house  of  John  Sands.  The  inmates  were  terror  stricken, 
the  visit  of  the  desperate  creatures  was  so  well  understood. 
Here  again  the  bravery  of  the  Island  women  was  demon- 
strated. Mrs.  Sands  comprehended  the  whole  situation  and 
instantly  laid  her  plan  of  defence.  She  put  her  babe  in  the 
cradle,  and  did  not  wait  for  them  to  obtain  admittance  to  her 
house,  but  made  it  her  castle  by  holding  it  in  her  control, 
as  she  seized  a gun,  and  with  it  promised  in  meaning  terms 
the  death  of  the  first  Refugee  who  might  attempt  to  enter. 
Neither  of  them  being  willing  to  be  shot  thus  they  departed. 
Sometimes  a band  of  these  marauders  would  pass  over  from 
the  main  land  to  the  Island  in  a light  row  boat  that  could 
elude  the  swiftest  sails.  A galley  of  these  roughs,  accord- 
ing to  tradition,  nine  in  number,  four  oarsmen  on  a side, 
and  a helmsman,  approached  the  Island  for  plunder. 
They  attempted  to  land  at  the  Old  Harbor  Landing,  near 
the  spring  of  the  Spring  House.  They  probably  intended 
to  land  in  the  night.  The  burning  flames  of  oil  upon  Bea- 
con Hill  are  supposed  to  have  signaled  their  approach  in 
that  kind  of  a -boat  then  called  a ,l  Shaving  Mill.”  But 
with  the  darkness  of  that  evening  came  also  a heavy  sea 
from  the  southeast.  The  boat  was  now  tossed  to  and  fro 
like  a shaving  upon  the  waves.  The  armed  Islanders  in- 
ferred the  intended  point  of  landing,  and  there  secreted 


REFUGEES. 


63 


themselves  behind  rocks  and  boulders  to  give  the  invaders 
a warm  reception.  But  the  darkness  grew  dense  ; the  seas 
rolled  higher  as  the  wind  increased  ; the  surf  dashed  fear- 
fully against  the  rocky  shore  ; and  only  occasional  dim 
views  could  be  had  of  the  “ Shaving  Mill,”  until  nothing  was 
visible  upon  sea  or  land,  and  nothing  was  heard  amid  the 
angry  tones  of  the  sea  but  the  suppressed  words  passing  from 
one  to  another  on  the  alert  for  the  enemy,  until  a strong  deter- 
mined voice  upon  the  deep  was  heard  thundering  out  the 
command  — - “ Row  ! boys,  row  for  your  lives  ! ” The  Re- 
fugees were  approaching  the  shore  ! But  as  soon  as  they 
were  near  enough  to  be  struck  by  the  surf  their  “ Shaving 
Mill  ” went  to  pieces,  and  the  last  ever  known  of  them  was 
their  drowning  cry  — “ Help  ! Help  ! ” piercing  the  dark- 
ness, and  reaching  only  the  ears  of  those  whom  they  in- 
tended to  rob.  From  that  ill-fated  crew  originated  the 
weird  legend  of  the  “ Harbor  Boys,”  whom  the  Islanders 
for  a hundred  years  supposed  to  be  the  ghosts  of  the 
drowned  refugees  still  hovering  about  the  Old  Harbor 
landing,  and  repeating  in  dark  stormy  nights  there  the  old 
command — “ Row  ! boys,  row  ! ” and  the  cries  — “ Help  ! 
Help  ! ” The  writer  has  conversed  with  men  who  say  they 
have  heard  these  mysterious  voices  there,  and  these  ghostly 
voices  are  spoken  of  by  the  old  inhabitants  as  the  “ Harbor 
Boys.”  Why  not  imagine  these  ghosts  to  be  the  crew  of 
the  fire  ship  that  used  to  glide  about  Sandy  Point,  and 
which  some  one  named  after  the  Palatine  ? 

When  the  storm  cloud  of  the  Revolution  had  passed  over, 
nowhere  were  the  sunshine  and  the  bow  of  promise  more 
welcome  than  on  Block  Island,  and  ever  since  then  it  has 
shared  in  the  state  counsels,  and  in  the  sympathy  of  the 
mother  colony. 

The  war  of  1812,  instead  of  bringing  hostility  to  the 
Island,  brought  double  friendship  and  prosperity,  as  both 
hostile  nations  declared  it  to  be  neutral  ground,  and  the 


64 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


British  there  replenished  their  vessels  with  water  and  pro- 
visions and  paid  the  gold  liberally  for  these  supplies,  and 
by  their  good  discipline  and  gentlemanly  behavior  left  a 
pleasant  impression  upon  the  memories  of  the  Islanders. 

During  the  long  struggle  of  the  colonies  for  independence 
the  inhabitants  of  Block  Island,  with  no  earthly  ally, 
amenable  to  no  other  than  its  own  civil  authority,  except 
as  claimed  by  Great  Britain  to  belong  to  its  crown,  enjoyed 
and  enforced  all  the  fundamental  principles  of  a pure 
democracy.  Whether  familiar  with  any  treatises  of  juris- 
prudence, like  those  of  Justinian,  Blackstone,  or  Vattel, — 
whether  they  had  ever  seen  a code  or  not,  they  certainly 
had  a clear  knowledge  of  human  rights  and  duties,  and 
they  put  that  knowledge  into  practice  in  a manner  that 
would  have  been  a model  for  the  sages  of  Athens  and  for 
the  writer  of  our  Declaration  of  Independence-  The  town 
records  of  this  little,  forsaken,  war -pillaged  Island,  then  in 
sight  and  hearing  of  the  wrathful  guns  booming  on  the 
main,  show  a love  of  freedom  and  a faith  in  its  attainment 
and  possession  that  were  marvelous.  The  inhabitants  drew 
up  a constitution  of  their  own,  made  their  own  laws,  estab- 
lished their  own  civil  tribunal  for  all  grades  of  litigation, 
investing  in  their  high  court  of  three  wardens  the  power 
of  decision  in  all  cases,  except  in  trial  for  life,  beyond 
which  decision  there  was  no  appeal;  and  in  trial  for  life 
the  court  consisted  of  said  three  wardens  and  six  associate 
freeholders,  and  the  decision  of  a majority  of  this  tribunal 
was  without  appeal,  and  these  associate  freeholders  were 
finable  £20  each  for  absence  from  the  trial  for  capital 
punishment.  Thus  the  little  model  democracy,  amidst  the 
ravages  of  war,  isolated,  few  in  number,  forsaken  by  its 
mother  colony,  and  within  reach  of  the  paws  of  the  growl- 
ing British  lion,  and  infested  night  and  dsy  by  lawless 
Refugees,  and  even  by  the  treachery  of  a few  of  its  own 
citizens,  all  through  the  long  years  of  the  Revolution,  had 


THE  FISHEKIES  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


65 


its  regular  elections,  as  though  it  were  one  of  the  powerful 
nations  of  the  earth,  maintained  civil  and  religious  order, 
attended  to  transfers  of  real  estates,  kept  a record  of 
marriages,  births,  and  deaths,  cared  for  the  poor,  assessed 
and  collected  taxes,  but  left  no  record  of  murmuring  at 
their  lot,  or  of  doubt  that  under  the  leadership  of  Wash- 
ington and  Greene,  the  latter  of  whom  married  one  of  the 
daughters  of  the  Island,  would  ultimately  lead  our  brave 
armies  to  victory. 

THE  FISHERIES  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 

It  would  be  very  interesting  to  learn  when  the  first  fish 
was  taken  from  the  waters  of  Block  Island,  and  to  state  the 
number  of  millions  there  captured.  Such  a history  would 
probably  take  us  back  a thousand  years  or  more.  The  old 
native  Manisseans  used  to  narrate  their  war  legends  to  Sam- 
uel Niles,  more  than  two  centuries  ago,  and  those  legends 
may  have  come  down  from  a period  of  many  centuries  before 
Niles  conversed  with  those  Indians.  Those  war  legends 
indicate  the  great  value  placed  upon  the  Island  of  Manisses, 
which  means  the  Little  god  Island , as  they  were  waged  for 
its  valuable  fisheries,  for  there  were  plenty  of  other  lands 
quite  as  valuable  for  corn.  Then,  too,  the  Breach  into  the 
Great  Pond  was  providentially  kept  open,  and  immense 
quantities  of  oysters,  scallops,  and  other  shell-fish  were 
there  produced.  Now,  to  produce  the  same  a little  enter- 
prise is  necessary.  Indeed  it  is  not  twenty- five  years  since 
large  quantities  of  oysters  were  raked  from  the  bottom  of 
the  Great  Pond. 

The  Indians  also  fished  with  lines  similar,  probably,  to 
those  upon  which  they  strung  their  wampum.  The  sinkers 
to  these  fines  indicate  the  large  fish  caught,  and  the  deep 
water  from  which  they  were  taken.  They  were  stone,  some 
of  which  are  preserved,  weighing  from  a half  to  two 


66 


HISTOBY  OP  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


pounds,  round,  oblong,  with  a deep  groove  cut  in  each 
longitudinally  around  the  center,  and  the  line  was  tied 
around  the  sinker  in  its  groove.  "We  do  not  know  what 
they  used  for  hooks,  but  may  suppose  they  combined  a 
sharp  tooth  with  a shank  to  which  the  line  was  fastened,  as 
did  the  Sandwich  Islanders,  whose  hooks  we  have. 

The  first  record  we  find  concerning  the  fishing  business 
of  the  Island  by  the  settlers  was  made  in  1670,  when,  in 
response  to  a petition  from  the  Islanders,  the  General 
Assembly  of  Rhode  Island  appointed  a committee  to  raise 
contributions  “ to  make  a convenient  harbor  there,  to  the 
encouradging  fishing  designs This  had  reference  to  expor- 
tation of  fish  from  the  Island,  and  implies  the  beginning  of 
the  business  that  has  been  one  of  the  principal  supports  of 
the  Island.  In  1675  an  incident  there  occurred  indicative 
of  business  and  morals.  Peter  George,  one  of  the  first 
settlers,  had  a Negro  by  the  name  of  Wrathy,  who  was 
publicly  whipped  with  twelve  lashes  for  “ staling  fish  from 
Steven  the  Endian.”  The  Negro  was  then  Wratliy  indeed, 
and  he , at  least,  considered  fish  on  Block  Island  very 
costly. 

That  the  fisheries  of  the  Island,  one  hundred  and  eighty 
years  ago,  had  become  a lucrative  business  is  evident  from 
the  following  record  in  the  old  town  book,  put  there  in 
April,  1702.  The  record,  as  follows,  is  instructive  in  sev- 
eral respects.  “Then  Capt.  John  Merritt  bi’ought  before 
us  one  John  Meeker  for  being  a delinquent  for  absenting 
himself  from  out  of  said  Merritt’s  employment,  being  his 
servant  for  the  fishing  season  for  forty  shillings  pr.  month 
with  six  pounds  of  bread  and  six  pounds  of  pork  a week, 
the  which  considerations  the  said  Meeker  did  promise  to 
his  faithful  service  till  the  middle  of  June  or  thereabouts 
as  by  witness  on  oath  doth  appear  before  us.  We  there- 
fore determine  and  give  our  judgment  that  the  said  Meeker 
shall  perform  the  said  conditions  as  above  said.  The  forty 
shillings  pr.  month  is  to  be  paid  current  money  of  the 


THE  FISHERIES  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


67 


Colony  with,  cost  of  Court  which  is  one  shilling  for  the 
constable’s  fees,  and  two  shillings  for  other  charges  which 
said  Meeker  is  to  pay. 

“ Given  under  our  hands, 

SIMON  RAY,  Sen,  Warden, 
EDWARD  BALL,  Dep.  Warden. ” 

During  this  same  year,  1702,  the  fisheries  were  of  suffi- 
cient extent  to  make  the  saving  of  oil  quite  a business,  for 
then  the  town  sold  six  barrels  of  “oyle  for  ammunition.” 
Indeed,  still  farther  back,  in  1695,  the  town  stipulated 
with  one  Robert  Carr,  an  Islander,  in  reference  to  the 
Great  Pond,  to  be  “ forward  in  making  a harbor  and 
promoting  the  fishing  trade,"  In  1723  the  Rhode  Island 
Legislature  took  action  in  reference  to  the  Block  Island 
Fisheries  which  were  then  impeded  “ For  the  want  of  a 
pier  at  said  Island,  for  the  encouragement  of  the  navigation 
of  this  Colony,,  especially  the  fishery,  which  is  begun  to  be 
carried  on  successfully.” 

The  seasons  for  the  most  profitable  fishing  are  fall  and 
spring.  In  November  the  inestimable  droves  of  cod-fish 
travel  southerly,  and  they  seem  to  make  Block  Island  one 
of  their  guide-posts,  for  the  uniformity  of  their  movements 
from  century  to  century  indicates  their  familiarity  with  the 
waymarks  and  “paths  of  the  sea.”  They  are  known  by 
fishermen  as  “deep  water”  or  “bottom  fish,”  on  account  of 
their  swimming  so  near  the  bottom  of  the  water.  If  diverted 
from  their  paths,  and  likely  to  be  overtaken  by  a storm  in 
too  shallow  water,  they  are  sagacious  enough  to  swallow 
smooth  pebbles  for  more  ballast,  or  to  enable  them  to  keep 
to  the  bottom  to  prevent  them  from  being  driven  ashore. 
From  this  fact  the  fishermen  have  sometimes  been 
warned  of  their  own  dangers,  which  are  neither  few  nor 
small.  Their  success  depends  much  upon  their  finding 
the  paths  of  these  deep  water  travelers,  as  they  have  par- 
allel courses,  and  the  men  with  hooks  and  lines  “strike 


68 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


them  ” sometimes  in  one  and  sometimes  in  another.  These 
paths  are  on  all  sides  of  the  Island,  on  which  so  many 
millions  of  these  deep  water  “crafts”  have  been  wrecked 
that  if  it  were  possible  for  Neptune  or  others  of  the  “cod- 
fish aristocracy”  to  obtain  a hearing  at  Washington,  a 
strong  petition  for  the  removal  of  Block  Island  would 
be  pressed  with  great  pathos  and  persistence.  But  this 
“aristocracy”  will  not  learn  wisdom  from  their  disasters, 
and  so  each  generation  follows  the  paths  of  its  predecessors. 
In  the  autumn  the  cod  come  much  nearer  to  the  Island 
than  in  spring,  thus  greatly  favoring  the  fishermen  by 
shortening  their  distance  in  the  short  days,  and  enabling 
them  to  return  the  more  quickly  to  harbor  on  account  of 
sudden  storms,  as  at  times  they  are  obliged  to  weigh 
anchor,  hoist  sails,  and  fly,  like  a rising  flock  of  birds,  for 
safety. 

The  fishing  is  done  in  water  from  ten  to  twenty  fathoms 
deep.  Lines  and  hooks  are  used  that  are  strong  enough  to 
“haul  in”  fifty  pounds  rapidly.  The  salt  water  is  so  pene- 
trating and  softening  to  the  hands  that  a cot  or  glove  to 
protect  each  forefinger  is  necessary.  The  line  is  hauled 
over  the  hard  oak  “ gunnel,”  which  is  sometimes,  when  old, 
seen  with  deep  cuts  in  it  made  by  the  lines  while  hauling 
the  fish.  “ High -hook”  is  the  title  which  is  given  to  the 
one  who  has  caught  the  most  fish  for  the  day.  “ Who  is 
high-hook  to-day  ? ” is  a common  inquiry  after  thirty  or 
forty  Island  boats  have  landed  at  the  Harbor  with  their 
treasures. 

After  the  fall  fishing,  and  through  much  of  the  winter, 
there  are  a few  smacksmen  who  continue  fishing  through 
the  cold  weather.  Their  vessels  have  decks,  cabins,  fires, 
berths,  and  cooking  conveniences,  although  at  night  and 
during  storms  they  take  shelter  within  the  Break-water. 
In  the  center  of  some  of  their  smacks  is  a “well” — a place 
open  from  top  to  bottom  admitting  sea  water  equal  in  depth 


THE  FISHERIES  OF  BLOCK.  ISLAND. 


69 


to  the  draught  of  the  vessel,  and  in  this  water  fish  are 
kept  alive,  new  water  coming  in  at  the  bottom,  and  thus 
from  a thousand  to  fifteen  hundred  in  a vessel  are  taken  to 
market,  and  while  sailing  all  the  fish  in  the  well  are  headed 
in  the  direction  in  which  the  vessel  is  going,  as  though  they 
were  working  their  passage. 

Trawl  fishing  has  been  carried  on  to  some  extent  within 
the  Island  fisheries.  This  consists  principally  of  fishing 
with  about  a thousand  hooks  set  by  a single  crew.  The 
hooks  are  attached  to  lines  about  two  feet  long,  and  each 
of  these  lines  a few  feet  apart  is  fastened  to  a rope  which 
is  sunk  at  a certain  point  at  sea,  where  a buoy  is  left  to 
mark  the  spot,  and  this  line  is  stretched,  sunk,  and  buoyed 
so  that  it  is  near  the  bottom  with  its  tempting  clams  for 
baits  on  the  hooks.  All  the  fish  have  to  do  then  to  be 
caught  is  to  take  the  bait,  fasten  themselves  on  the  hook, 
and  be  hauled  up  on  the  long  rope  and  manipulated  by  the 
happy  fisherman  who  rejoices  in  a full  line. 

The  spring  fishing  is  much  like  that  in  autumn.  As  the 
cod  return  northerly  they  keep  farther  from  the  Island,  for 
the  most  part,  than  at  other  times.  This  may  be  owing  to 
the  direction  given  to  them  by  the  southerly  shores  of 
Long  Island.  They  also  seem  to  be  more  numerous  in 
spring,  owing,  perhaps,  to  their  being  less  scattered  in 
different  paths,  which  also  may  be  narrower.  These  paths 
are  generally  called  “ banks  ” by  the  fishermen.  They  lie 
in  spring  from  five  to  twenty  miles  from  the  Island.  Many 
more  are  caught  in  the  spring  than  in  the  autumn.  The 
spring  season  extends  from  the  first  of  April  until  into  June. 
During  this  season  the  mild  weather,  the  distance  of  the 
sail,  the  large  number  in  the  business,  the  early  starting  in 
the  morning,  the  rapid  footsteps  along  the  streets  from  two 
o’clock  until  four  in  the  morning,  the  rattle  of  sails  hoist- 
ing in  the  harbor,  the  sailor  phrases  of  the  fishermen,  and 
the  anxious  movements  to  become  “high-hook”  for  the 


70 


HISTORY  OR  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


day,  make  up  a scene  of  life  and  beauty  that  must  be 
witnessed  to  be  appreciated.  It  is  then  that  Whittier’s 
stanza  comes  in, — 

“ When  boats  to  their  morning  fishing  go, 

And,  held  to  the  wind  and  slanting  low, 

Whitening  and  darkening  the  small  sails  show.” 

It  is  a charming  scene,  in  the  month  of  May,  to  view 
from  an  elevated  point  on  the  land  from  thirty  to  fifty 
small  sails  going  out  to  the  Banks,  as  one  of  those  narrow 
slumbering  clouds  skirts  the  eastern  horizon,  under  which 
cloud  the  red  sun  begins  to  show  himself  rising  out  of  the 
sea,  and  towards  whom  the  vessels  are  gently  moving  in  a 
long  line  stretching  from  the  last  one  rounding  the  Break- 
water to  those  apparently  sailing  into  the  face  of  the  sun, 
whose  rays  have  soon  converted  said  cloud  into  a wreath 
of  fretted  gold  for  the  brow  of  the  king  of  day,  while  the 
stillness  of  the  morning  is  broken  only  by  the,  solemn 
murmur  of  wearied  waves  that  finish  their  journey  along 
the  shore. 

Far  different  is  the  scene  in  the  afternoon  when  one 
after  another  of  the  same  boats,  from  various  points  of  the 
compass,  come  straggling  back,  as  if  working  hard  to  bring 
their  burdens  that  press  the  gunnels  to  the  water,  with  wet 
and  wearied  fishermen  who  have  thrown  overboard  tons  of 
ballast  stones  to  make  room  for  the  hungry  and  hunger- 
satisfying  cod-fish,  many  of  which  Cooper’s  Leatherstocking 
would  call  “ sock-dolligers.”  Then  follows  the  lively  work 
of  dressing  ten  or  fifteen  tons  of  these  captured  denizens 
of  the  deep.  The  rapidity  with  which  this  work  is  done 
until  the  fish  in  the  boats  are  the  fish  in  the  great  tubs  for 
pickling  is  interesting.  Each  does  his  own  part,  and  all 
work  together  like  machinery.  Meanwhile,  if  the  day  has 
been  successful,  at  no  expense  of  time,  occasional  jokes  and 
laughs  are  heard  among  the  many  busy  workers  at  the 


THE  FISHERIES  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND.  *7 1 

Harbor,  and  the  occasional  inquiry, — “ Who  is  high-hook 
to-day  ? ” 

When  several  parties  have  fished  together  in  the  same 
boat  they  divide  the  fish  by  a rule  of  their  own  invention, 
and  with  dispatch.  If  one  owns  a boat  and  has  a partner 
in  fishing  they  throw  the  fish  ashore,  and  then  divide  them 
one  by  one  into  three  piles,  one  pile  earned  by  the  boat  for 
its  owner.  As  soon  as  all  are  thus  evenly  divided  one  of  the 
partners  turns  his  face  away  from  the  three  piles,  while  the 
other,  unseen,  points  to  one  after  another  of  the  piles,  saying, 
— “Whose  is  that  ?”  and  the  answers  from  the  other  settle 
the  division  for  the  day,  and  each  then  dresses  his  own. 
Meanwhile  livers  are  saved  for  oil  to  cure  consumptives, 
boys  are  there  getting  the  sounds,  and  farmers  are  busy 
with  their  carts  and  oxen  getting  the  offal  for  their  land. 
By  five  o’clock  the  work  of  the  day  is  nearly  over,  the 
frequent  click  of  the  fish-house  lock  is  heard,  and  little 
squads  of  weary  fishermen  are  seen  propelling  their  heavy 
feet  homeward  to  be  greeted  by  happy  wives  and  children 
and  to  enjoy  the  well  prepared  meal,  and  the  refreshing 
sleep  for  which  they  often  retire  earlier  than  does  the 
“unwearied  sun.” 

Occasionally  the  “ voyge  ” is  much  more  abruptly  and 
less  profitably  ended,  as  when  a sudden  storm,  in  the  early 
part  of  the  day,  comes  down  upon  that  little  fleet  like  a hawk 
swooping  down  upon  a brood  of  chickens.  Then  a speedy 
return  to  the  Harbor  begins,  in  some  cases  before  a hook 
has  been  dropped,  or  an  anchor  cast.  At  such  a time  spy- 
glasses from  many  windows  on  the  Island  are  pointing 
towards  the  fleet,  as  the  storm  has  increased  with  great 
rapidity.  Then  anxious  wives,  and  mothers,  and  children 
have  gathered  upon  the  shore  and  watched  for  returning 
kindred.  Previous  to  the  Government  Harbor  such  occa- 
sions were  exceedingly  perilous,  as  the  danger  of  landing 
in  the  high  and  violent  surf  was  so  great.  The  most 


1 2 


HISTORY  OP  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


graphic  description  would  be  only  a feeble  outline  of  the 
terrible  reality.  At  such  a time  behold  that  darkening 
cloud  coming  on  the  swift  wings  of  the  wind,  accompanied 
with  the  sudden  roughness  of  the  sea  occasioned  by  the  rap- 
idly traveling  storm  from  a distance,  while  the  fisherman’s 
homeward  boat  is  in  imminent  peril.  He  hastens  with  all 
sail,  but  when  he  reaches  the  Bay  the  danger  from  breakers 
along  the  shore  is  equal  to  that  on  the  deep.  He  hesitates 
to  land,  while  death  seems  to  be  boarding  his  vessel.  W ith 
his  crew  of  two  or  three  he  sees  his  kindred  on  the  shore 
in  agony.  Knowing  well  the  fury  of  those  mad  breakers, 
by  the  most  skillful  exertions  he  skims  over  the  waves  this 
way  and  that  in  the  Bay  until  remaining  there  seems  to  be 
fatal.  Then,  in  that  moment  of  desperation,  when  the 
only  chance  of  reaching  the  shore  alive  is  to  ride  the 
highest  breaker,  hear  the  captain  say,  as  one  now  living 
has  said, — “Boys,  we  shall  be  drowned  if  we  stay  here, 
and  we  may  as  well  try  to  go  ashore!”  Now  the  little 
vessel  is  headed  for  the  landing.  Rapidly  she  glides  to 
safety  or  destruction.  Eyes  upon  the  shore  fill  with  tears, 
hands  are  wrung  in  agony,  lips  quiver  as  their  whispered 
prayer  is  breathed  like  Peter’s  into  the  storm.  She  is  seen 
to  have  selected  the  strong  shoulders  of  the  largest  of  the 
“three  brothers,” — the  wave  that  may  carry  her  so  high 
upon  the  shore  that  the  next  wave  cannot  reach  and  strike 
her,  and  thus  afford  the  fishermen  a moment  in  which  to 
escape.  “Steady!  steady!  Not  too  fast,”  says  an  old 
seaman  on  the  shore.  For  if  the  boat  gets  too  far  upon 
said  shoulders  she  will  pitch  over  and  be  buried  in  an 
instant.  Neither  must  she  lag  behind,  for  if  she  does  the 
receding  wave  will  swamp  her  instantly.  Her  sail  is  raised 
or  lowered  by  the  inch  according  to  the  command  of  the 
captain  at  the  helm,  to  keep  her  balanced  on  that  wave. 
“She  rides!  She  rides!”  says  another  in  suppressed, 
anxious,  hopeful  tones,  among  others  standing  in  breathless 


THE  FISHERIES  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


73 


silence,  while  the  critical  instant  of  life  or  death  hastens, 
and  the  great  wave  carries  the  little  craft  high  upon  the 
land,  the  fishermen  are  safe,  and  the  “big  brother”  retires 
to  the  deep,  like  Jonah’s  whale. 

We  can  easily  imagine  that  boat  to  have  only  one  cod- 
fish in  it,  but  can  hardly  imagine  a buyer  beating  the 
fisherman’s  price  down  from  six  to  five  cents  a pound. 

Summer  fishing  by  the  Islanders  is  carried  on  chiefly  in 
Pounds,  and  with  seine  and  hooks.  The  seine  is  used  for 
catching  blue  fish  and  mackerel  principally,  and  this  branch 
increases  with  the  increasing  demands  of  the  hotels  and 
boarding-houses  in  the  watering  season,  when  so  many 
enjoy  the  great  luxury  of  the  choicest  fish  direct  from  the 
ocean. 

Prom  the  various  modes  of  catching  the  fish,  the  entire 
value  of  the  Block  Island  fisheries  may  safely  be  estimated 
at  seventy-five  thousand  dollars  annually.  This  estimate  is 
made  only  in  reference  to  the  Island,  while  many  vessels 
from  abroad  fish  there  for  cod,  mackerel,  sword-fish,  etc., 
and  enjoy  the  benefits  of  the  Harbor. 

Whales  in  considerable  numbers  have  hovered  about  the 
Island  late  years,  and  fishing  for  them  has  been  contem- 
plated, and  if  successfully  undertaken  prescriptions  may 
be  furnished  according  to  the  recommendation  to  a pro- 
fessional gentleman  on  his  way  to  the  Island  who  remarked 
that  he  had  been  told  the  fish  there  were  good  to  invigorate 
the  braiD,  and  asked  one  of  his  traveling  companions  this 
question, — “ How  much  fish  would  you  advise  me  to  eat  to 
bring  up  my  brain  ?”  “About  one-half  of.  a inhale  a day,” 
was  the  reply. 

These  monsters  of  the  deep  fear  the  fishermen  about  as 
much  as  the  latter  fear  them.  When  close  to  a boat  one,  a 
few  years  ago,  looked  at  the  frightened  father  and  son,  and 
they  looked  at  him,  until,  by  sinking  quietly  down  out  of 
sight,  he  exemplified  the  saying,— “The  fear  of  you,  and 


74 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


the  dread  of  you,  shall  be  upon  every  beast  of  the  earth, 
and  upon  every  fowl  of  the  air,  upon  all  that  moveth  upon 
the  earth,  and  upon  all  the  fishes  of  the  sea."  (Gen.  ix,  2.) 

SAILOR  PHRASES. 

These  were  formerly  very  common  among  the  fishermen 
on  the  Island  before  the  local  dialect  there  was  corrupted 
by  the  hosts  of  visitors  from  abroad.  Some  of  them  to  a 
landsman  are  very  forcible  and  by  no  means  devoid  of 
beauty.  Paul  could  not  find  a better  expression  for  his 
feelings  than  the  sailor  phrase  which  he  used  when  he 
spoke  of  his  “desire  to  depart,”  etc.  They  are  amusing, 
sometimes,  to  a stranger. 

Two  grown  brothers  were  crossing  a field.  Sam  had 
high  and  tight  boots,  Edwin  had  not.  As  they  came  to  a 
wet,  soft  place  Sam  took  Edwin  on  his  back  to  carry  him 
over.  While  on  their  way  they  dramatized  Bunyan’s 
Slough  of  Despond.  Sam  was  heavy,  and  Edwin  was  a 
heavy  pack,  and  Sam  began  to  sink.  He  exerted  himself 
with  all  his  might,  and  thus  sprained  his  leg  so  that  he 
could  do  nothing.  This  dismounted  Edwin,  and  both 
wallowed  in  the  mire,  until  Edwin  got  Sam  on  terra  firma. 
Then  Edwin,  more  alarmed,  as  he  saw  his  brother  unable 
to  stand,  than  if  he  had  been  in  a shipwreck,  ran  for  the 
doctor,  and  exclaimed  to  him, — “ I want  you  to  go  as  quick 
as  you  can,  for  I was  on  Sam’s  baok  crossing  a slough  and 
he  carried  away  his  leg  I ” 

The  comparison  of  a man  with  a disabled  leg  to  a dis- 
masted ship  for  a while  “carried  away”  the  doctor  with  a 
hearty  laugh. 

In  a similar  sense  an  Islander  who  had  lost  off  a button 
expressed  his  uneasiness  by  saying  that  his  suspender  was 
“ carried  away.” 

The  following  is  a specimen  prepared  especially  for  the 
writer  in  the  winter  of  1874. 


THE  HABBOES  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


75 


Directions  for  walking  from  the  Harbor  to  the  Neck 
School-House. 

Heave  along  the  beach  till  you  make  the  first  port  light 
round  the  Sand  Head. 

Steer  away  for  that  light  (in  a window)  till  you  make  the 
Sand  Head. 

Then  wear  away  to  the  nor’ad  till  you  make  the  next 
port  light.  Then  steer  away  for  that  till  you  make  the 
stone  wall. 

Then  bear  away  to  the  nor’ad,  and  keep  her  steady  till 
you  make  the  School-house  light  on  the  starboard. 

Many  a time  in  the  dark  evenings  of  winter  the  writer 
found  these  directions  to  be  valuable  while  walking  along 
the  shore  of  the  “ loudly  sounding  sea  ” on  his  way  to  some 
of  the  best  school-house  meetings  ever  attended. 

THE  HAEBORS  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 

“ There  was  no  harbor."  This  first  record  on  the  subject 
was  made  in  1660,  in  the  original  agreement  to  purchase 
and  settle  the  Island.  Five  years  afterwards  the  settlers 
petitioned  the  Court  of  Rhode  Island  for  help  to  build  a 
harbor,  and  this  petition  was  presented  by  Thomas  Terry. 
The  Governor,  his  Deputy,  and  Mr.  John  Clarke  were 
appointed  to  look  into  the  matter  by  visiting  the  Island. 
In  1670,  as  nothing  seems  to  have  been  done,  the  same 
petition  was  repeated  by  Thomas  Terry  and  Hugh  Williams, 
and  in  response  the  Rhode  Island  Assembly  appointed  a 
committee  of  two,  Caleb  Carr,  and  Joseph  Torrey  of  New- 
port, to  raise  contributions  “ to  make  a convenient  harbor 
there,  to  the  encouradging  fishing  designs.”  About  ten 
years  after  this  some  visible  results  of  this  movement 
appeared. 

The  Great  Pond  Harbor  was  the  first  with  which  the 
Island  was  favored.  This  was  constructed  by  a Harbor 
Company  organized  on  the  Island  in  1680,  assisted  by  a 
4 


76 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


town  tax.  Capt.  James  Sands  was  tlie  leading  man  in  this 
Company,  while  Simon  Ray  was  Chief  Warden  before 
whom,  Sept.  14,  1686,  others  were  acknowledged  as  new 
members.  This  enterprise  was  a failure,  and  the  Harbor 
Company,  in  July,  1694,  surrendered  its  charter.  This, 
however,  was  followed  with  repeated  but  unsuccessful 
efforts  on  the  part  of  the  town,  and  of  private  individuals 
until  June,  1705,  when  the  whole  enterprise  was  abandoned, 
the  difficulty  in  managing  the  Breach  was  so  great.  The 
principal  reason  assigned  for  this  abandonment  was  that 
by  "the  providence  of  God  a prodigious  storm  hath  broken 
down  the  above  said  harbor.” 

The  New  Harbor , or  Pier , was  in  use  in  1709,  and  the 
town  had  a graded  tax  on  foreign  vessels  for  entering  this 
harbor.  From  this,  in  1717,  mention  was  made  of  the 
“Harbor  Bay,”  and  in  this  year  a tax  for  fastening  at  the 
Bier  was  levied  by  the  town,  but  was  repealed  in  1718. 
This  Harbor  was  serviceable  about  twelve  years,  and  then 
was  destroyed  by  a storm. 

The  New  Pier.  After  the  former  had  been  swept  away, 
after  state  and  town  appropriations  for  a new  harbor,  after 
a joint  committee  had  begun  “cutting  a passage  through 
the  beach,”  this  project  was  stopped  in  February,  1735, 
by  an  act  of  the  General  Assembly,  which  at  the  same  time 
appropriated  £1,200  for  “making  an  addition  to  the  old 
Pier,  or  building  a new  one.”  The  work  of  building  a new 
one  was  retarded  by  frequent  storms.  The  State  appro- 
priated £200  more,  and  in  June,  1743,  £400  more,  making 
£1,800  in  all.  In  May,  1845,  the  State  Committee,  con- 
sisting of  Samuel  Rodman,  Teddeman  Hull,  and  Abel 
Franklin,  reported  on  the  New  Pier  to  the  Assembly  that 
they  “found  it  to  be  completely  finished.”  This  costly 
structure  could  not  endure  the  heavy  seas  that  beat  upon 
the  Island. 

The  Lottery  Harbor  was  projected  in  1762.  A charter  for 


THE  HARB0R3  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


77 


a lottery  to  obtain  means  for  another  harbor  was  granted, 
but  was  not  successful.  This  contemplated  another  trial  of 
the  Great  Pond  for  a harbor.  This  project  was  renewed  in 
1773,  contemplating  an  appropriation  from  town  and  state 
combined  with  a lottery.  In  the  record  then  made  it  is 
said : — 

“ The  place  now  proposed  for  opening  a communication 
with  the  sea  is  about  a quarter  of  a mile  southward  from 
the  old  channel,  where  the  water  is  much  deeper,”  etc. 
(Col.  Rec.,  viii,  209.) 

The  Pole  Harbor  was  begun  about  the  year  1816,  about 
fifty  years  after  the  Lottery  Harbor  efforts  had  been  dis- 
pelled by  the  approaching  Revolution.  This  was  an  indi- 
vidual enterprise,  each  man.  as  he  chose,  at  low  tide, 
setting  his  own  spiles  where  they  are  now  seen,  near  the 
Government  Harbor.  At  one  time  these  poles  were  over 
one  thousand  in  number.  They  did  good  service  to  the 
generation  now  passing  away,  although  quite  inadequate  to 
the  wants  of  the  public. 

The  Government  Harbor.  The  first  act  of  Congress  in 
favor  of  this  was  in  1838,  calling  attention  of  the  Depart- 
ments to  the  subject,  but  nothing  definite  was  accomplished. 
Nearly  thirty  years  afterward  the  subject  was  again  brought 
before  Congress  in  an  able  speech  by  Senator  Sprague  of 
Rhode  Island,  and  about  the  same  time  Hon.  Nicholas  Ball 
appeared  before  the  Senate  Committee,  as  a citizen  of  Block 
Island,  of  which  the  Boston  Journal  then  said, — “ The 
Committee  were  so  impressed  by  Mr.  Ball’s  plain  facts  they 
voted  to  recommend  an  appropriation  of  $40,000.  This 
was  followed  by  a thorough  government  survey  of  the 
Island  for  the  best  location  of  the  harbor,  and  special 
attention  was  given  to  the  Great  Pond,  and  without 
knowing  the  old  Island  records  of  former  experiments 
with  the  Great  Pond,  the  surveyors  came  to  conclusions 
of  necessary  failures  corresponding  with  failures  that  had 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


long  since  occurred  and  had  passed  from  the  knowledge  of 
the  public.  After  great  effort  on  the  part  of  many,  and 
especially  of  Hon.  Nicholas  Ball,  and  of  Hon.  Senator 
H.  B.  Anthony  of  Rhode  Island,  in  July,  1870,  Congress 
made  an  appropriation  of  $30,000  for  a Government  Harbor 
at  Block  Island.  Its  construction  was  begun  in  October, 
1870.  In  the  March  following  Congress  made  another 
appropriation,  of  $75,000,  and  in  June  of  1872,  it  made  a 
third,  of  $50,000,  and  under  this  appropriation  Hon.  J.  G. 
Sheffield  of  Block  Island  completed  his  contract  to  place 
10,000  tons  of  stones  in  the  Breakwater.  These  sums, 
amounting  to  $155,000,  paid  for  doing  the  work,  the  cost 
of  which,  in  1868,  the  United  States  Board  of  Engineers 
estimated  at  $372,000. 


WRECKS. 

For  many  years  Block  Island  has  been  noted  for  the 
wrecks  upon  its  shores.  These  have  resulted  from  its 
location,  and  from  fogs,  and  treacherous  tides  between  it 
and  Long  Island.  But  few  of  these  sad  spectacles  are  here 
given,  as  specimens  of  many  of  a similar  character. 

One  probably  occurred  in  its  vicinity  in  the  year  1704, 
as  at  that  time  a body  floated  ashore  and  received  special 
attention  from  the  citizens.  Captain  Edward  Ball  was  then 
‘•Crown  Officer,”  or  sheriff  of  the  Island,  and  by  right  of 
his  office  he  summoned  a jury  of  inquest,  who,  after 
“solemn”  examination,  rendered  this  verdict, — “We  find 
no  wounds  that  occasioned  his  death,  but  we  conclude  that 
the  water  hath  been  his  end,  or  cause  of  his  death.”  This 
act  at  least  indicates  their  humanity. 

The  Mars,  in  1781,  was  driven  upon  the  Island  by  one  of 
our  war  vessels.  She  was  an  English  merchantman,  laden 
with  goods  which  were  sold  by  the  sheriff  of  Kent  County, 
Rhode  Island. 

The  Ann  Hope,  about  the  year  1815,  an  East  Indiaman, 


WBECKS. 


79 


owned  by  Brown  & Ives  of  Providence,  went  ashore  on  the 
south  end  of  the  Island,  in  the  vicinity  of  Black  Rock,  in 
a snow  storm  in  the  night,  Captain  Lang  in  command. 
When  she  was  discovered  in  the  morning  by  the  Islanders 
the  fearful  scene  beggared  description.  She  was  going  to 
pieces,  as  her  keel  hung  fast  to  the  rocky  shore.  Her 
upper  deck,  on  which  were  several  cannon  for  fighting 
pirates  who  then  infested  the  seas,  had  separated  from  the 
hull  and  was  floating  away  upon  the  tide.  Her  cargo  of 
spices,  leather,  and  various  kinds  of  merchandise  was  drift- 
ing here  and  there,  while  the  Islanders  were  saving  some 
of  the  articles  that  came  ashore,  among  which  were  a few 
bags  of  coffee,  until  in  a short  time  all  were  borne  away 
by  the  tide.  Meanwhile  all  possible  efforts  were  made  to 
save  the  perishing,  some  of  whom  were  rescued,  and  the 
lifeless  bodies  of  others,  as  they  drifted  ashore,  were  taken 
and  buried  decently  by  the  inhabitants  on  the  bluff  over- 
looking the  place  of  the  sad  disaster.  Old  men  of  the 
Island,  in  pitiful  tones,  have  many  a time  recounted  the 
heart-rending  scenes  of  the  lost  “Ann  Hope.”  One  of 
them,  however,  Mr.  Amad  Hodge,  who  naturally  had  a 
keen  sense  of  the  ludicrous,  generally  closed  his  narrative 
with  a good  laugh,  as  he  described  one  of  the  wrecked 
sailors  who  proved  his  enjoyment  of  the  stimulant  given 
him,  and  the  manipulations  of  the  Islanders  to  resuscitate 
him.  He  appeared  so  much  like  a corpse,  and  others  were 
in  so  much  need  of  assistance,  that  one  of  his  manipulators 
said  to  the  other, — “ Let  us  try  to  save  that  one  out  there 
in  the  water,  for  this  man  is  as  good  as  dead  ! ” Where- 
upon the  latter,  who  was  supposed  to  be  in  a hopeless 
condition,  exclaimed,  as  if  impatient  for  more  stimulant, — 
“Na!  indade,  I’m  as  good  as  a half  a dozen  dead  men!” 
He  was  an  Irishman. 


80 


HISTOBY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


THE  WAKRIOR. 

The  Warrior,  a large  two-mast  schooner,  carrying  goods 
and  passengers  between  Boston  and  New  Y ork,  was  wrecked 
on  Sandy  Point  in  April,  1831.  That  Point,  the  extreme 
north  end  of  the  Island,  then  extended  considerably  farther 
out  into  the  Sound  than  at  present.  The  W arrior,  becalmed 
in  the  previous  evening  at  the  eastward  of  the  Island,  had 
drifted  until  she  was  completely  land-locked  by  the  side  of 
the  Point,  where  she  found  herself  early  the  next  morning, 
while  the  wind  was  blowing  a heavy  gale,  and  the  Sound 
was  foaming  with  whitecaps.  All  human  effort  to  change 
her  course  was  unavailing.  No  life-saving  apparatus  was 
at  hand.  Stalwart  Islanders  hastened  to  the  shore.  The 
vessel,  drifting  rapidly,  must  soon  be  dashed  to  pieces. 
The  following  letter,  from  Mr.  Benjamin  T.  Coe,  then  the 
Inspector  of  Customs  for  Block  Island,  and  a witness  of 
the  wreck,  was  written  to  John  C.  Morrison,  Esq.,  of  New 
York:— 

“ Dear  Sir, — Yours  of  the  19th  has  come  to  hand  this 
day.  There  were  no  goods  saved  from  the  W arrior,  of  the 
description  you  mentioned. 

“ It  is  impossible  to  describe  the  awful  situation  of  that 
vessel  when  she  first  came  on  shore,  the  sea  breaking  over 
her  masts,  and  seven  souls  hanging  to  her  rigging,  not  more 
than  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards  from  us,  and  completely 
out  of  the  power  of  man  to  render  any  assistance — the 
vessel  striking  so  hard  as  to  drive  her  bottom  up,  both 
masts  unstepped,  and  fell,  at  the  same  time  ripped  up  her 
main  deck  and  the  goods  immediately  washed  out  of  her 
and  drove  away  to  the  eastward.  Some  cotton  and  calico 
drove  ashore  here,  one  sack  of  hides,  something  like  forty 
dozen  carpenters’  rules,  etc.  What  goods  were  saved  I 
delivered  to  Mr.  Charles  Brown,  the  Agent  from  Boston, 
and  Mr.  Charles  M.  Thurston  of  Newport,  to  whom  I must 
refer  you. 


THE  WARRIOR. 


81 


“I  am  informed  there  were  thirty  tons  of  iron  in  the 
oottom  of  the  vessel,  which  is,  I think,  now  buried  up  with 
sand,  as  there  has  been  no  part  of  said  bottom  seen  about 
the  Island.  When  the  weather  grows  warmer  I intend  to 
make  an  examination  for  the  bottom  of  the  vessel.  It  may 
be  the  case  that  some  heavy  articles  can  be  found.  If  any- 
thing of  the  kind  you  mention  should  be  found  I will  give 
you  the  earliest  information  in  my  power.  Our  insulated 
situation  renders  it  very  difficult — we  have  no  chance  of 
writing,  only  when  our  boats  go  off,  and  that  is  not 
frequent. 

“Your  ob’t  servant, 

BENJAMIN  T.  COE.” 

Other  witnesses  tell  essentially  the  same  story,  with  some 
additional  particulars.  One  has  described  the  sand-bar 
from  the  shore  to  the  ship  as  sometimes  nearly  naked 
between  the  heavy  seas  passing  over  the  Point.  One  of 
the  crew,  large  and  resolute,  used  great  exertion  to  keep  his 
imperiled  companions  from  becoming  chilled  and  benumbed 
by  the  cold  wind,  by  his  keeping  them  active.  Finally,  as 
he  saw  no  hope  of  assistance  from  the  hundreds  on  the 
shore,  he  made  the  desperate  effort  of  running  on  the 
sand-bar  to  the  land  between  two  monstrous  waves,  but 
when  half  way  to  land  he  saw  a violent,  high  sea  coming 
upon  him,  and  he  bravely  turned  and  met  it  head  foremost. 
He  might  as  well  have  met  an  Alpine  avalanche.  His  dead 
body  soon  after  was  picked  up  on  the  beach.  Others  on 
the  wreck  lashed  themselves  to  the  deck,  and  after  the 
storm  were  taken  off  by  the  Islanders,  all  dead  and  black- 
ened by  the  bruises  received  from  the  debris  violently 
thrown  hither  and  thither  by  the  angry  waves.  That  was 
a solemn  day  when  seven  corpses  from  the  "Warrior  were 
lying  side  by  side  upon  the  green  bank  not  far  from  the 
wreck.  Captain  Scudder,  all  of  his  crew  and  passengers, 


82 


HISTORY  OP  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


finished  life’s  voyage  together  in  that  worst  of  places  in  a 
gale,  where  two  seas  meet. 

The  Islanders  made  respectable  coffins  for  the  unfortunate 
strangers,  laid  them  out  decently,  and  had  religious  services 
at  their  burial.  Their  seven  graves  may  now  be  seen  in 
the  northwest  corner  of  the  Cemetery  on  the  Island.  Cap- 
tain Scudder  and  his  mate,  it  is  said,  have  been  removed 
by  their  friends,  who  were  happily  surprised  in  finding 
their  dead  so  kindly  cared  for  by  the  hands  of  strangers. 

The  whole  number  of  lives  lost  by  the  wreck  of  the 
Warrior,  there  is  reason  to  believe,  was  twenty-one,  four- 
teen of  whom  drifted  away  never  to  be  seen  again  until 
the  sea  shall  give  up  its  dead.  Mr.  Anthony  Littlefield, 
who  witnessed  the  sad  disaster,  while  in  Boston  soon  after, 
heard  a man  say  that  he  was  on  board  the  Warrior  just 
before  she  sailed,  and  that  she  then  had  in  all  twenty-one 
— eighteen  men,  two  women,  and  a colored  maid-servant. 

This  fearful  wreck  is  said  to  have  been  the  result  of 
carelessness  on  the  part  of  the  watch,  who  did  not  give 
timely  warning  of  danger.  Mr.  Weeden  Gorton,  while 
watching  the  wreck,  says  he  saw  men  jump  overboard  like 
sheep  while  the  Warrior  was  going  to  pieces. 

THE  MOLUNCUS. 

The  Moluncus,  a brig,  stranded  on  Block  Island,  at 
Grace’s  Point,  in  1855,  an  account  of  which  is  here  given, 
in  part,  to  indicate  the  mettle  of  the  Island  sailors  in  the 
midst  of  great  dangers  at  sea.  A very  severe  storm  drove 
her  ashore  about  evening.  The  Island  W recking  Company 
were  soon  at  hand  and  bantering  to  get  her  off.  As  she 
was  so  fast  aground  her  captain,  crew,  and  the  wreckers -all 
left  her,  and  on  shore  went  to  the  house  of  Robert  C.  Dunn, 
a short  distance  from  the  vessel.  There  they  bantered 
some  time  about  the  price  of  getting  her  off  and  into  port. 
At  last  the  agreement  was  made,  the  condition  being 


THE  MOLUNCtJS. 


83 


$2,500.  Each,  party  took  a copy  of  the  contract.  By 
this  time  it  was  quite  dark,  rain  falling,  and  the  wind 
blowing  a gale.  But  the  wreckers  decided  to  examine  the 
vessel  as  far  as  possible  to  determine  what  gear  to  apply  to 
her  in  the  morning.  But  when  they  reached  the  place  where 
they  left  her,  behold  she  was  gone!  What  was  to  be  done  ? 
They  were  bound  to  get  her  into  port  by  the  stipulation. 
To  lose  her  was  to  lose  a fine  sum  of  money.  But  how 
could  she  be  found  in  such  a night  ? . The  furious  waves 
were  coming  towards  them  and  madly  breaking  at  their 
feet,  waves  accompanied  by  winds  howling  fearfully,  while 
over  all  brooded  thick  darkness.  That  wind  moved  an 
Island  barn  from  its  foundations.  They  had  neither  light 
nor  compass,  and  only  a frail  surf-boat  with  which  to 
venture  upon  such  a sea.  Yet,  without  parley,  the  more 
daring  seized  their  boat,  shoved  it  into  the  teeth  of  the 
wind  and  waves,  and  one  after  another  leaped  in  and 
pushed  off,  with  Capt.  N.  L.  Willis,  Frank  "Willis,  Sylva- 
nus  Willis  (three  brothers),  Simon  Ball,  Wm.  P.  Ball, 
Silas  Mott,  S.  R.  Allen,  Luther  Dickens,  and  Thomas 
Rathbone,  and  launched  to  search  for  the  lost  brig  in  the 
storm  and  darkness.  Soon  they  were  out  at  sea,  tossed 
here  and  there,  at  the  mercy  of  wind,  waves,  tide,  and 
darkness.  The  direction  of  the  wind  was  their  only  guide. 
Anxious  thoughts  flit  across  - their  minds  occasionally  as 
they  continued  the  search  for  the  faintest  outlines  of  the 
vessel,  but  none  could  be  seen.  At  last,  when  hope  deferred 
began  to  make  the  hearts  of  some  sick,  through  the  spray 
and  darkness  something  like  the  shadow  of  a ship  appeared. 
“Steady,  boys  I haul  steady  to  wind’ard,  for  your  lives!” 
said  the  Captain  in  an  old  “sea-dog”  tone  that  meant  what 
only  sailors  can  fully  understand.  Soon  all  hearts  grew 
light,  and  the  oars  were  pulled  with  a force  they  had  never 
felt  from  human  hands  before.  Words  were  few.  The 
brig  was  there,  miles  away  from  land,  rocking  in  the  deep 


84 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


troughs,  with  her  tall  masts  swaying  this  way  and  that, 
almost  lying  flat,  for  an  instant,  upon  the  water.  Her  lee 
side  was  cautiously  approached,  and  as  its  gunnel  came  to 
the  water’s  edge,  one  leaped  aboard,  a line  from  her  was 
made  fast  to  the  brave  boat,  and  soon  all  were  upon  her 
broad  deck,  manning  her  sails,  and  heading  for  Newport, 
where  their  well-earned  $2,500  in  gold  was  promptly  ten- 
dered by  the  Captain  whose  brig  was  got  off  by  the  rising 
tide,  and  by  a most  daring  venture  was  found  and  sailed 
into  port  in  good  condition. 

The  only  mishap  among  these  wreckers  was,  they  did 
not  adhere  strictly  to  their  contract,  and  by  bad  advice, 
claimed  salvage,  spent  about  $1,000  at  law,  were  defeated, 
and  at  last  took  the  money  stipulated  for  in  the  contract. 

There  have  been  times  when  so  many  wrecks  occurred 
simultaneously  on  the  Island  that  they  almost  suggest  some 
general  concert  of  action.  The  following  are  given  as  an 
instance. 

THE  MAYS. 

These  were  two  fine  schooners  wrecked  on  the  Island  in 
the  spring  of  1876.  Their  coincidences  were  remarkable. 
One  was  the  Catherine  May , Capt.  Davis,  the  other  was  the 
Henry  J.  May , Capt.  E.  E.  Blackman,  from  the  same  port, 
the  same  date;  went  ashore  the  same  day,  the  21st  of  May, 
at  nearly  the  same  point — the  southwest  part  of  the  Island, 
one  at  7:30  p.  m.  ; the  other  thirty  minutes  after.  The 
former  was  got  off  by  the  Old  Wrecking  Company,  and 
taken  to  Newport  for  $2,000;  and  the  latter  by  the  same 
Company,  and  was  taken  to  Fall  River  by  two  steamers  for 
$3,000.  These,  with  many  others,  would  have  been  a total 
loss  but  for  the  prompt  action  of  the  wreckers. 

WRECKING. 

This  does  not  mean,  as  some  might  think,  the  producing 
of  wrecks,  but  the  saving  of  vessels  already  stranded. 


WRECKING. 


85 


Although  hard  things  have  been  said  of  the  wreckers,  and 
doubtless  bad  things  have  been  done  by  them,  yet  they  no 
more  merit  unqualified  denunciation  than  do  physicians 
who  require  large  pay  for  great  cures.  Great  dangers  and 
expense  are  incurred  in  saving  from  total  loss  a vessel  that 
has  struck  a sandy  or  a rocky  shore. 

William  P.  Lewis,  Esq.,  of  Block  Island,  Secretary  of 
the  Old  Protection  Wrecking  Company  there,  has  furnished 
the  following  facts  of  its  business. 

During  the  seventeen  years  previous  to  1877  that  com- 
pany got  off  from  the  shores  of  the  Island  and  Point 
Judith  twenty-one  schooners,  five  barks,  and  three  brigs. 
The  value  of  property  thus  saved  was  about  one  million 
and  two  hundred  thousand  dollars,  besides  the  vessels 
saved  .by  the  New  Company  on  the  Island.  During  these 
seventeen  years  five  schooners  were  wholly  lost  on  the 
shores  of  the  Island,  valued  at  $120,000.  The  number 
of  wrecks  there  from  1843  to  1860  are  said  to  have  been 
greater  than  those  during  the  above  named  period.  A 
great  many  steamers  and  sailing  vessels  have  struck  the 
Island,  and  by  favorable  wind  and  tide  have  got  off  with- 
out coming  under  the  name  of  wrecks.  But  it  may  be 
safely  said  that  millions  have  been  lost  by  wrecks,  and 
millions  saved  by  wrecking  on  Block  Island.  These  casu- 
alties are  greatly  diminished  now  by  the  government 
light-houses,  fog  signal,  and  life-saving  stations,  and  signal 
stations  there,  and  it  is  believed  the  time  is  not  far  distant 
when  navigation  shall  be  so  well  understood,  and  precau- 
tions so  ample  for  the  mariner,  that  these  descriptions  of 
former  casualties  will  be  read  with  interest.  For  this 
reason  the  following  sketch  of  a wrecking  process  which 
the  writer  witnessed  is  here  given. 

The  Laura  E.  Messer,  a beautiful  three-masted  schooner, 
Captain  J.  P.  Gregory,  from  Newport  to  Baltimore,  in  the 
winter  of  1874-5,  by  some  mysterious  error,  in  a fair  wind 


86 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


and  not  very  dark  night,  ran  upon  Sandy  Point.  Her 
light  cargo,  a few  hundred  barrels  of  apples,  and  the  delay 
of  the  Captain  in  securing  the  aid  of  the  wreckers,  afforded 
a fair  opportunity  to  wind  and  tide  to  carry  her  high  up 
on  the  sand  bar,  so  that  a high  tide,  strong  wind,  and  a 
powerful  gear  were  necessary  to  get  her  off,  all  of  which 
made  the  work  for  the  wreckers  very  perilous,  as  at  that 
point  the  wind  and  rising  tide  produced  a strong  current 
on  the  east  and  west  sides  of  the  Island,  and  these  currents 
met  on  that  bar  or  point  with  such  violence  as  had  pre- 
viously destroyed  the  Warrior  in  1831,  the  fearful  scene  of 
whose  perishing  ci'ew  and  passengers  was  still  fresh  in  the 
minds  of  the  wreckers,  and  the  L.  E.  Messer  was  lying 
very  near  the  identical  spot  where  that  sad  catastrophe 
occurred. 

To  take  this  vessel  off,  imbedded  as  she  was  in  the  sand, 
required  more  power  than  any  steamer  could  apply,  and  it 
must  be  incessant,  and  unyielding;  against  wind  and  tide, 
for  perhaps  weeks  or  months  before  the  needed  combination 
of  power  from  wind,  tide,  and  gear  could  take  her  from 
her  bed. 

The  gear  consisted  of  immense  hawsers,  smaller  ropes, 
blocks,  chains,  heavy  anchors,  etc.  An  ingenious  network 
of  strong  ropes  over  the  deck  fastened  to  stanchions,  masts, 
and  windlass  distributed  all  the  power  to  all  her  parts,  and 
from  these  parts  it  was  all  concentrated  upon  two  great 
hawsers  that  stretched  from  her  bow  to  the  wrecking 
anchors  out  in  the  deep  water,  one  of  them  extending  out 
twenty-one  hundred  feet.  To  this  were  attached  three 
heavy  anchors  at  proper  distances  from  each  other.  The 
other  hawser  ran  out  parallel  with  the  first  nine  hundred 
and  sixty  feet,  and  to  this  was  added  a heavy  chain  four 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  long,  making  this  entire  cable  four- 
teen hundred  and  ten  feet  in  length,  and  to  this  two  large 
anchors  were  attached.  Either  of  these  five  anchors  was 


WRECKING. 


87 


sufficient  to  hold  a ship  in  an  ordinary  storm,  but  they  all 
had  a power  applied  to  them  simultaneously  so  great  as  to 
move  them.  This  was  done  by  the  windlass  and  pulleys 
on  the  deck  of  the  schooner — “The  best  windlass  we’ve 
ever  seen,”  said  the  old  captains  of  the  Island. 

Trim  and  beautiful,  with  her  tall  three  masts,  there  she 
sat  in  the  sand,  every  timber  in  her  groaning  under  the 
great  strain  from  her  anchors,  while  the  harsh  winds  of 
winter  night  and  day  struck  her  sighing  shrouds.  Moons 
waxed  and  waned,  tides  rose  and  fell,  storms . from  the 
wrong  direction  came  and  went,  and  only  a little  gain  was 
secured  by  wheeling  her  bow  off  shore.  Almanacs  were 
consulted  for  moons  and  tides,  and  as  the  highest  tides  were 
at  midnight,  then  the  wreckers  were  ready  for  action.  On 
the  night  of  its  highest  point  the  wind  blew  a gale,  and  it 
was  enough  to  make  one  grow  pale  to  watch  by  moonlight 
the  awful  commotion  of  the  angry  elements  a little  farther 
out  upon  the  Point  than  the  place  where  the  wreck  was 
lying.  There  we  had  a perfect  comment  of  Luke’s  mean- 
ing when  he  said — “two  seas  met.”  Not  only  was  the 
sight  appalling,  but  the  sounds  of  the  roaring  winds  and 
dashing  waves  were  terrific.  It  was  difficult  for  two  stand- 
ing face  to  face  to  understand  each  other’s  words. 

At  twelve  in  the  night  the  wreckers  were  to  be  on  deck. 
Some  had  spent  the  early  part  of  the  night  aboard  the 
wreck,  while  others  slept  in  the  Light-house,  close  by.  At 
the  appointed  time  it  was  very  interesting  to  see  the  old 
“sea-lions”  put  on  their  sailor  suits,  light  their  pipes  with 
the  cool  purpose  of  utilizing  those  fearful  elements  for 
mechanical  purposes.  They  were  temperate  men,  and  said 
but  little.  They  knew  their  danger.  For  if  she  should 
leave  the  beach,  with  them  on  her  decks,  and  be  hauled 
out  to  her  anchors  in  that  gale,  her  hawsers  might  chafe 
and  break,  and  then  she  would  be  driven  upon  the  Point 
where  the  Warrior  wp„s  so  suddenly  torn  to  pieces  while  all 


88 


HIST0KY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


on  board  perished.  With  the  windlass  a heavier  strain 
was  put  upon  the  hawsers  and  anchors,  her  tall  masts 
swayed  a little,  and  our  eyes  were  strained  to  see  her 
“jump”  from  her  bed  of  sand  as  the  propitious  tide  and 
heavy  sea  should  raise  her  up  suddenly.  But  the  wind 
changed,  the  tide  fell,  the  waves  were  cut  down,  and  she 
was  left  more  deeply  imbedded  than  ever. 

How  many  more  moons  must  wax  and  wane,  and  tides 
ebb  and  flow  before  another  combination  of  favoring  ele- 
ments none  could  tell.  How  many  pipes  were  filled  and 
smoked  after  that,  while  discussing  the  damage  likely  to  be 
done  to  that  “$5,000  gear,”  none  can  guess.  Weeks  of 
watching  and  waiting  the  wreckers  worried  away.  At  last 
the  day  came.  All  hands  were  there  in  the  night,  and 
aboard.  At  sunrise  the  high  tide  and  a heavy  swell  lifted 
her  up,  and  the  strain  from  her  anchors  and  hawsers  made 
her  dart  in  an  instant  from  the  beach  into  the  deep  water. 
The  “off  shore”  wind  carried  her  beyond  her  five  anchors, 
which  wheeled  her  about,  as  if  to  take  a farewell  look  of 
her  place  of  confinement.  The  waves  were  high,  and  she 
rode  them  with  seeming  impatience,  as  if  writhing  to 
escape.  Soon  her  last  anchor  was  weighed,  and  her  cables 
shipped,  and  like  a thing  of  life  spread  her  wings,  headed 
for  Newport,  and  seemed  joyfully  to  say, — “Farewell  to 
Sandy  Point,  and  its  Light-house  ” — 

“ Set  at  the  mouth  of  the  Sound  to  hold 

The  coast  light  up  on  its  turret  old, 

Yellow  with  moss  and  sea-fog  mold.” 


LEGENDS. 

Few,  if  any,  people*  are  without  mysterious  legends 
adorned  with  the  fantasies  of  superstition.  While  witch- 
craft was  scourging  Europe,  and  making  no  little  disturb- 
ance at  Salem  and  Boston,  it  is  not  strange  that  some  queer 
freaks  of  the  imagination  were  experienced  by  the  early 


THE  DANCING  MORTAR. 


89 


Pilgrims  and  their  descendants  on  Block  Island.  Although 
the  “horseshoe”  has  been  less  popular  on  the  Island  than 
it  has  been  in  London  and  Boston,  yet  its  oldest  inhabitants 
even  now  echo  the  suppressed  words  of  weird  legends 
told  a century  ago'.  In  reference  to  these  the  writer  once 
consulted  an  aged  blind  man  of  strong  intellect  and  emo- 
tional powers  who  was  familiar  with  the  ancient  Island 
legends.  His  relation  of  a few  was  a severe  tax  upon  the 
nerves  of  his  stoical  hearer,  who  never  again  conferred  with 
him  on  the  subject.  Indeed  it  is  a blessing  to  the  coming- 
generations  to  be  ignorant  of  the  multitude  of  fictitious 
stories  that  once  were  related  with  truthful  solemnity  by 
old  men  and  women  to  children  trembling  with  fear  in  the 
chimney  corner.  It  may  be  well  to  preserve  a few  as 
fossils  of  extinct  creatures  of  distorted  imaginations. 


THE  DANCING  MORTAR. 

This,  though  somewhat  intermixed  with  another  legend, 
has  its  own  individuality.  Like  every  ignis  fatuus  it  has 
its  foundation  in  a reality.  The  real  seems  to  be  this, — 
that  when  the  ship  Palatine  stopped  at  Block  Island  and 
left  her  diseased  and  dying  inmates,  she  either  then  or  on 
her  return  from  the  West  Indies  left  on  the  Island  logs  or 
blocks  of  lignum -vitae,  from  which  the  Islanders,  then 
destitute  of  mills,  made  mortars  for  crushing  their  corn. 
Two  of  those  mortars  are  now  in  existence,  the  one  here 
described  having  been  deposited  by  the  writer  in  Rhode 
Island  Hall  of  Brown  University. 

To  test  the  authenticity  of  this  legend  of  the  Dancing 
Mortar,  several  of  the  oldest  and  most  trustworthy  Island- 
ers were  consulted  concerning  it  separately,  without  inform- 
ing one  of  the  statements  of  the  other.  This  was  in  the 
year  1876.  Mrs.  Margaret  Dodge,  eighty-six  years  old,  of 
remarkably  clear  memory;  Mr.  Anthony  Littlefield,  and 
his  wife,  each  eighty -four  years  old;  Mr.  and  Mrs.  John 


90 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


Ball,  both  over  seventy;  Mrs.  Caroline  Willis,  eighty-one: 
and  others,  all  agreed  that  this  mortar  was  from  the  ship 
Palatine.  It  was  well  known  to  have  been  kept  and  owned 
at  the  house  once  owned  and  occupied  by  the  venerable 
Simon  Bay,  where  several  of  the  unfortunate  passengers  of 
the  Palatine  were  hospitably  received,  and  near  which 
house  are  their  graves.  There  it  remained  long  after  the 
Ray  family  had  passed  away,  and  his  house  was  occupied 
by  another  family. 

For  a considerable  period  after  this  change  the  old  Bay 
house  was  said  to  be  haunted.  But  few,  perhaps,  of  the 
present  readers  know  how  much  this  means,  unless  they 
are  familiar  with  the  old  stories  of  chimney  ghosts  and 
such  “hobgoblins”  as  Bunyan  had  in  mind  when  he  wrote 
the  Pilgrim’s  Progress.  In  and  around  that  house  such 
sights  and  sounds  were  said  to  have  been  seen  and  heard 
as  ordinary  nerves  protest  against  repeating  in  an  attempted 
description.  In  comparison  with  them  the  modern  fabrica- 
tions of  spiritualism,  and  the  tricks  of  ventriloquists  are 
puerile. 

The  Dancing  Mortar,  as  a part  of  the  furniture  of  that 
house  so  powerfully  haunted,  naturally  shared  in  the  myste- 
rious endowments  of  its  surroundings.  Before  contemplat- 
ing some  of  its  strange  freaks,  a view  should  be  had  of  it 
in  its  present  condition. 

It  is  of  lignum-vitae,  fourteen  inches  high,  about  ten 
inches  in  diameter,  and  is  nearly  as  heavy  as  would  be  the 
same  bulk  of  stone,  it  is  so  hard.  It  would  hold  about 
four  quarts.  The  gi’ains  of  its  fiber  are  diagonal,  for  the 
most  part,  and  so  interwoven  as  to  prevent  it  from  crack- 
ing by  hard  usage  or  from  age.  For  a considerable  time 
it  was  used  as  a splitting-block,  and  now  bears  the  marks 
of  the  axe  on  its  weather-worn,  gray,  and  shabby  exterior, 
made  so  by  a half  century’s  exposure  to  the  storms  of 
summer  and  winter.  Its  interior,  which  used  to  receive 


THE  DANCING  MORTAR. 


91 


the  corn  and  the  pestle,  now  looks  “aged  and  gray,”  and  it 
is  hoped  the  rosette  of  moss  which  it  wore  when  placed  in 
its  modern  and  more  classic  home  will  long  remain  as  an 
ornament  of  one  of  the  relics  of  antiquity. 

In  its  younger  days  it  did  its  dancing,  according  to  the 
legend,  when  the  old  house  where  it  was  had  the  reputation 
of  being  mightily  haunted.  Then,  they  say,  while  the 
inmates  were  conversing  on  common  topics,  or  musing 
over  the  hauntings  of  the  house,  this  mortar  would  begin 
to  move,  untouched  by  human  hand,  until  it  threw  itself 
from  its  standing  position  upon  its  side,  striking  with  a 
thud  upon  the  floor.  This  in  itself  was  sufficient  to  alarm 
the  spectators.  But  this  was  only  the  first  preparation  for 
dancing.  Its  next  move  was  to  roll  from  one  side  of  the 
room  to  the  other,  by  some  invisible  impulse.  At  this  the 
amazement  of  the  inmates  can  better  be  imagined  than 
described.  W e can  picture  to  ourselves  the  lively  times  in 
that  room,  lighted  by  a wood  fire  in  the  eyening,  as  men, 
women,  and  children  dodged  here  and  there  to  escape  the 
touch  of-  that  haunted,  rolling  mortar,  lest  they  too  should 
be  infected  with  its  witchery.  After  this  rolling  came  its 
final  antics  for  the  occasion.  These,  after  a little  respite, 
consisted  of  righting  itself  up  again  on  end.  Then  came 
the  dancing , as  without  visible  springs,  or  the  touch  of 
visible  hands,  it  bounded  from  the  floor  to  the  joists  and 
floor  overhead,  and  thus  went  up  and  down  between  the 
floors,  varying  its  position  from  one  part  of  the  room  to 
another.  Admitting  this  to  be  so,  what  could  have  been 
more  natural  than  for  those  inmates,  at  the  beginning  of 
that  lonely,  mysterious  mortar  waltz,,  to  have  danced  a 
“ quickstep  ” hurriedly  out  of  the  doors  and  windows ! 

One  of  the  half  dozen  aged  witnesses  concerning  this 
legend  incidentally  suggested,  though  unintended,  a key  to 
its  solution.  “La!  yes,”  said  she,  “I’ve  hear’n  tell  about 
that  mortar  when  I was  a child;  it  was  at  the  house  of 


92 


1IIST0RY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


Mr.  T.  D , the  old  opium  eater."  There,  in  his  brain, 

probably,  the  house  haunting,  and  the  mortar  dancing 
legend  originated. 

This  mortar  has  been  well  known  for  over  a century. 
More  than  fifty  years  ago  its  old  home,  the  Simon  Ray 
house,  was  taken  down,  and  a part  of  it  was  put  into  the 
new  house,  about  one  hundred  yards  distant,  then  built 
and  now  owned  by  the  aged  and  highly  esteemed  Raymond 
Dickens,  who  from  his  youth  has  been  intimately  acquainted 
with  this  mortar.  He  knew  it  when  used  for  a splitting- 
block.  But  for  some  reason,  perhaps  on  account  of  its 
waywardness  in  former  days,  it  was  refused  a place  in  the 
new  dwelling,  and,  as  if  to  keep  it  quiet  ever  after,  it  was 
placed  in  a fence  wall,  on  its  side,  with  heavy  stones  on  it, 
and  there,  for  nearly  fifty  years,  it  did  penance  until  liber- 
ated by  the  writer  in  1876,  and  was  honored  with  its 
present  home, — 

“ Where  Fame’s  proud  temple  shines  afar.” 

Perhaps  some  legend  seeker,  at  some  future  day,  will 
learn  the  weird  stories  associated  with  the  long  and  lonely 
path  on  the  Island  anciently  known  as  “ the  devil's  cause- 
way." See  Refugees,  for  “Harbor  Boys”  legend. 

THE  PALATINE. 

The  legend  of  the  ship  Palatine  is  the  most  noted  of  any 
one  that  ever  originated  on  Block  Island.  None  other, 
perhaps,  in  our  country  has  a more  perfect  commingling 
of  fact  and  fiction,  prose  and  poetry,  pathos  and  tragedy, 
truth  and  falsehood,  than  this  phantom  ship  story  as  under- 
stood by  many. 

That  there  was  once  a ship  by  the  name  of  Palatine  is 
quite  certain.  This  is  the  nucleus  of  all  the  fictitious 
pyrotechnics  concerning  her  transmutation  into  a mysteri- 
ously manned  ship  of  fire,  making  brief  voyages  on  Block 


THE  PALATINE. 


93 


Island  Sound  for  the  benefit  of  poets  and  lovers  of  the 
marvelous. 

An  effort  has  been  made,  on  the  ground  of  mere  assump- 
tion, to  show  that  this  vessel  originally  had  some  other 
name,  but  what  it  was  we  are  not  told  This  assumption 
is  that  she  received,  at  Block  Island  or  elsewhere,  the 
name  Palatine  from  her  Palatinates,  or  passengers  of  that 
name.  But  as  well  might  we  call  a ship  Ireland  because 
she  happens  to  be  laden  with  Irish  emigrants.  Were 
sailors,  as  were  the  Islanders,  ever  known  to  call  a vessel 
by  any  other  name  than  that  borne  upon  her  hull  ? No. 
Palatine  was  her  original  name,  whatever  the  nationality  of 
her  passengers. 

This  is  demonstrated  by  a few  authentic  facts.  Mr. 
Raymond  Dickens,  now  about  eighty  years  old,  a native  of 
the  Island,  hale,  and  of  good  memory,  said  to  the  writer 
that  when  he  (Dickens)  was  a boy  he  frequently  heard  his 
grandfather,  Thomas  Dickens,  at  the  age  of  about  eighty, 
speak  of  the  ship  Palatine , not  of  the  “Palatinates.”  By 
the  memories  of  these  two  Islanders  our  minds  are  carried 
back  to  about  1736,  and  Simon  Ray,  one  of  the  first  pro- 
prietors of  the  Island,  was  then  living.  At  his  or  at  his 
son’s  house  the  invalid  passengers  of  the  Palatine  were 
kindly  received.  He  talked  with  Thomas  Dickens  about 
the  Palatine;  Thomas  talked  about  her  with  his  grandson 
Raymond  Dickens,  who  is  now  living,  and  the  nearest  of 
these  few  links  in  the  unbroken  chain  of  evidence  that  a 
ship  with  her  original  name  Palatine  once  came  to  Block 
Island. 

A part  of  her  legend  is  that  she  was  somehow  changed 
into  a ship  of  fire,  rising  up  from  the  waters  of  Block 
Island  Sound,  which  separates  the  Island  from  the  main 
land,  and  gracefully  sailing  on  this  tack  or  that,  mysteri- 
ously manned  by  an  invisible  captain  and  crew,  until  hull, 
spars,  ropes,  and  sails  all  slowly  vanished  in  the  air  or 


96 


HISTOKY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


“ This  blaze  actually  emits  luminous  rays.  A gentleman 
whose  house  is  situated  near  the  sea  informs  me  that  he  has 
known  it  to  illuminate  considerably  the  walls  of  his  room 
through  the  windows.  This  happens  only  when  the  light 
is  within  a half  a mile  of  the  shore,  for  it  is  often  seen 
blazing  at  six  or  seven  miles  distant,  and  strangers  suppose 
it  to  be  a vessel  on  fire.” 

Dr.  Willey,  who  then  had  and  still  has  respectable  rela- 
tives on  the  Island,  and  who  well  knew  the  superstitious 
notions  of  many  in  those  days,  both  upon  the  Island  and 
upon  the  shore  opposite,  in  the  same  letter  states  that  when 
he  saw  the  Palatine  light  in  the  evenings  of  February,  1810, 
and  December  20th  of  that  year,  its  appearances  were 
essentially  the  same  as  those  above  mentioned. 

In  reference  to  the  now  famous  legend  he,  seventy  years 
ago,  said, — “ From  this  time,  it  is  said,  the  Palatine  light 
appeared,  and  there  are  many  who  firmly  believe  it  to  be  a 
ship  of  fire,  to  which  their  fantastic  and  distempered  imagi- 
nations figure  masts,  ropes,  and  flowing  sails.”  He  finally 
adds, — 

“ I have  stated  facts  to  you,  but  feel  a reluctance  to 
hazard  any  speculations.  These  I leave  to  you  and  other 
acute  researchers  of  created  things.  Your  opinion  I would 
be  much  pleased  with. 

u With  the  highest  feelings  of  respect, 

(Signed)  AAEON  C.  WILLEY. 

Hon.  S.  L.  Mitchell.” 

From  the  above  candid  statement  of  facts  by  so  respect- 
able an  eye-witness,  and  from  ample  corroborative  testimony 
from  others,  there  is  left  no  ground  of  reasonable  doubt 
that  a phenomenal  light,  during  the  earliest  part  of  the 
nineteenth  century,  was  frequently  seen  gliding  to  and  fro 
like  a fairy  yacht  of  ghostly  pleasure  seekers,  enlarging  and 
diminishing,  changing  from  one  style  of  craft  to  another, 


THE  PALATINE. 


97 


sinking  and  rising  and  tacking  without  helm  or  yards  as  if 
self-directed.  Of  its  frequent  spectators  Whittier  has  the 
following  beautiful  stanzas, — 

“ Nor  looks  nor  tones  a doubt  betray, 

‘ It  is  known  to  us  all,’  they  quietly  say; 

‘ We  too  have  seen  it  in  our  day.’ 

“ For  still  on  many  a moonless  night, 

From  Kingston  Head  and  from  Montauk  Light, 

The  specter  kindles  and  burns  in  sight. 

“ Now  low  and  dim,  now  clear  and  higher, 

Leaps  up  the  terrible  Ghost  of  fire; 

Then  slowly  sinking  the  flames  expire. 

“ And  the  wise  Sound  skippers,  though  skies  he  fin*. 

Reef  their  sails  when  they  see  the  sign 
Of  the  blazing  wreck  of  the  Palatine.” 

In  this  Palatine  legend,  then,  we  have  these  well-authen- 
ticated facts:  first,  that  there  was  a ship  Palatine  once  in 
the  waters  of  Block  Island ; and  second,  that  in  Block  Island 
Sound  there  appeared  a strange  fire  or  light  fed  by  an  invis- 
ible fuel,  frequently  assuming  the  form  of  a three-masted 
vessel,  moving  about.  Of  this  phenomenon  no  satisfactory 
explanation  has  ever  been  given,  while  much  talent  has 
been  employed  in  making  it  instrumental  in  gratifying  the 
taste  for  the  marvelous.  It  is  possible,  however,  that  this 
light  was  fed  by  gas  rising  through  the  water,  as  the  same 
invisible  fuel  has  been  known  to  rise  hundreds  of  feet 
through  the  ground,  and  on  the  surface  ignite  and  send  up 
a flame  forty  feet  high,  and  support  this  flame  night  and 
day  for  weeks,  during  a period  of  a score  of  years.  This 
statement  can  be  verified  by  respectable  citizens  in  the 
vicinity  of  Canandaigua,  N.  Y , where  burning  springs 
were  no  novelty  fifty  years  ago.  The  writer  has  seen  the 
stream,  once  known  as  the  “ Burning  Brook,”  in  a certain 
neighborhood,  where  the  flames  used  to  play  over  its  rapid 


98 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


surface,  as  the  stream  was  gliding  over  a rock  from  whose 
fissures  lie  saw  bubbles  of  gas  rising  through  the  water. 
He  there  conversed  with  those  who  had  applied  the  match 
near  the  surface  of  the  water  of  this  brook,  and  as  a result 
they  had  seen  flames  rise  and  dance  over  the  limpid  stream 
as  fantastically  as  did  those 

“ Of  the  blazing  wreck  of  the  Palatine.” 

The  gas  on  the  Sound  may  have  been  ignited  by  electricity, 
as  houses  and  barns  are  sometimes  ignited  by  lightning. 

It  would  be  gratifying,  were  it  possible,  to  give  as 
definite  a description  of  the  ship  Palatine,  as  we  have  of 
the  Palatine  Light.  But  during  several  years  of  research 
among  the  records  of  the  Island  the  writer  has  never 
found  a word  that  refers  to  this  vessel.  By  request,  Mr. 
Charles  E.  Perry,  a native  of  the  Island,  and  a gentleman 
whose  scholarship  and  extensive  research  concerning  the 
Palatine  entitle  him  to  a high  degree  of  confidence,  has 
prepared  the  following: — 

u Memoranda  of  Facts  and  Traditions  connected  with  the 
Palatine. 

“ She  came  ashore  on  Sandy  Point,  the  northern  extrem- 
ity of  Block  Island,  striking  on  the  HummucJc,  at  that  time 
a little  peninsula  of  the  Island.  As  the  tide  rose  she  floated 
off,  and  was  towed  into  Cow  Cove,  near  the  Point,  by  the 
Islanders  in  their  boats.  The  passengers  were  all  landed, 
except  one  woman  who  refused  to  leave  the  wreck,  and 
most  of  them  were  carried  to  the  houses  of  Edward  Sands 
(where  John  Revoe  Paine,  Esq.,  now  lives),  and  Simon 
Ray,  who  owned  a large  part  of  the  West  Side,  and  lived 
in  a house  near  the  one  now  occupied  and  owned  by  Mr. 
Raymond  Dickens.  Many  of  the  passengers,  weakened  by 
starvation  and  disease,  soon  died,  and  were  buried  on  a 
little  elevation  west  of  the  house  of  Wm.  P.  Lewis,  Esq., 
where  their  graves  are  now  visited. 


THE  PALATINE. 


99 


“ Some  of  the  passengers,  however,  lived  and  left  the 
Island,  and  one  of  them  gave  to  the  little  daughter  of 
Edward  Sands,  then  twelve  years  old,  a dress  of  India 
calico  or  chintz  patches,  as  the  material  was  then  called. 
This  little  girl  was  my  grandmother’s  grandmother,  and  my 
grandmother  has  often  heard  her  relate  this  incident.  My 
grandmother’s  grandmother  died  in  1836.  at  the  age  of 
ninety-six,  from  which  data  (she  being  twelve  years  old 
when  the  ship  came  ashore)  I conclude  that  she  was  wrecked 
about  the  year  1752. 

“ One  of  these  passengers,  a woman,  married  a colored 
slave  belonging  to  a Mr.  Littlefield.  Her  name  was  Kate, 
and  was  commonly  called  Kattern.  She  was  known  as 
Long  Kate  to  distinguish  her  from  another  who  was  then 
called  Short  Kate.  The  former  had  three  children,  Cradle , 
whose  descendants  have  died  or  moved  away;  Mary,  from 
whose  descendants  “Jack,”  a colored  man,  long  in  the 
employment  of  Hon.  Nicholas  Ball,  and  remembered  by 
many  as  the  driver  of  the  four-ox  team  that  took  the  visit- 
ors, in  former  days,  from  the  Ocean  View  to  the  Bathing 
Beach;  and  Jenny , whose  posterity  have  died  and  left  the 
Island.” 

From  Mr.  Perry’s  replies  to  his  extensive  inquiries 
concerning  the  Palatine  he  has  furnished  the  following 
extracts : — 

“ Charles  Mueller,  U.  S.  Consul  at  Amsterdam,  July  4,  1870, 
states  that  the  Custom  House  Archives  there  have  been 
searched,”  and  that  “the  record  was  found  of  a ship 
Palatine  which  was  wrecked  in  the  Bay  of  Bengal,  July 
14,  1784.” 

“Richard  II.  Dana,  Jr.,  states  that  his  father’s  poem — The 
Buccaneer,  was  simply  a work  of  imagination,  founded 
on  no  fact,  and  having  no  reference  to  the  Palatine.” 

J.  G.  Whittier  states  that  his  first  hint  of  the  story  of 
its  wreck  came  from  James  Hazard  of  Newport,  that  his 


100 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


knowledge  on  the  subject  is  very  limited,  and  that  he  has 
a plate  said  to  have  come  from  the  Palatine.” 

From  the  foregoing  facts  Mr.  Perry,  as  an  intelligent 
Islander,  gives  us  the  following  conclusions,  from  which 
others,  of  course,  are  at  liberty  to  dissent  if  they  see  reasons 
for  so  doing.  He  says: — • 

“ The  gist  of  the  traditional  accounts  of  her  seems  to  be, 
that  she  sailed  from  some  German  port,  laden  with  well-to-do 
emigrants,  bound  to  Philadelphia;  that  the  captan  died  or 
was  killed  on  the  passage ; that  the  officers  and  crew  starved 
and  plundered  the  helpless  emigrants,  and  finally,  in  their 
boats,  abandoned  the  vessel,  which  drifted  ashore,  as  pre- 
viously stated,  during  the  week  between  Christmas  and 
New  Year’s.”  * 

“The  ship  was  undoubtedly  burned. 

CHARLES  E.  PERRY.” 

Mr.  Benjamin  Sprague's  Recollections  about  the  Palatine. 

He,  a native  Islander,  when  eighty-eight  years  old,  with 
no  disease  preying  upon  his  constitution,  and  with  a clear 
memory,  says  he  heard  his  parents  say  much  about  Kattern , 
one  of  the  passengers  from  the  Palatine.  They  called  her 
“Dutch  Kattern,”  which  indicates  her  origin,  and  it  was 
well  understood  by  them  that  she  came  from  the  Palatine. 
Mr.  Sprague,  many  years  ago,  well  knew  Kattern’s  daugh- 
ter, Cradle,  a mulatto,  as  Kattern  married  a negro  soon 

* This  reference  to  Christmas  suggests  that  tradition  got  the  Palatine 
mixed  up  with  the  Golden  Grove,  a brig  from  Halifax  that  was  wrecked, 
about  a century  ago,  near  Sandy  Point,  on  Grove  Point,  which  derives 
its  name  from  that  brig  which  came  ashore  on  Christmas,  and  the  crew 
who  remained  upon  the  Island  commemorated  the  event  by  the  poetry 
still  repeated  on  the  Island,  in  which  are  the  lines, — 

“ From  Halifax,  that  frozen  shore, 

On  Christmas  day  we  made  the  shore 
On  Block  Island,”  etc. 


THE  PALATINE. 


101 


after  she  came  upon  the  Island.  From  Mr.  Sprague  we 
obtain  a clue  to  the  origin  of  the  legend  . of  the  Palatine. 
He  says  she  reported  that  the  crew  starved  the  passengers 
to  get  their  money;  that  she  was  a noted  fortune-teller; 
that  she  would  hide  away  behind  a wall,  or  in  a thicket  of 
bushes,  and  there  lie  in  a trance  for  hours.  On  returning 
to  the  house  much  exhausted,  and  being  asked  where  she 
had  been,  her  reply  was  that  she  had  been  home  to  Holland, 
and  then  would  give  an  account  of  her  kindred  there  as 
she  had  just  seen  them.  She  lived  on  the  Neck,  and  was 
believed  to  be  a witch.  The  Islanders  were  afraid  of  her. 
Mr.  Sprague  has  no  recollection  of  ever  having  heard  any 
account  of  the  burning  of  the  Palatine.  Whether  this  part 
of  the  legend  originated  on  the  Island  or  on  the  main  land 
we  are  unable  to  ascertain.  Mr.  Whittier,  in  answer  to 
inquiry  on  the  subject,  said: — 

“ 2 1st,  10  mo.,  1876. 

“Hear  Friend-. — 

“ In  regard  to  the  poem  Palatine,  I can  only  say  that  I 
did  not  intend  to  misrepresent  the  facts  of  history.  I wrote 
it  after  receiving  a letter  from  Mr.  Hazard  of  Rhode  Island, 
from  which  I certainly  inferred  that  the  ship  was  pillaged 
by  the  Islanders.  He  mentioned  that  one  of  the  crew  to 
save  himself  clung  to  the  boat  of  the  wreckers,  who  cut 
his  hand  off  with  a sword.  It  is  very  possible  that  my 
correspondent  followed  the  current  tradition  on  the  main 
land. 

“Mr.  Hazard  is  a gentleman  of  character  and  veracity, 
and  I have  no  doubt  he  gave  the  version  of  the  story  as  he 

had  heard  it. 

“Very  Truly  Thy  Friend, 

JOHN  G.  WHITTIER.” 


102 


HISTORY  OP  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


His  poetic  version  of  the  wreck  is  mainly  this^— 

“ The  ship  that  a hundred  years  before, 

Freighted  deep  with  its  goodly  store, 

In  the  gales  of  the  equinox  went  ashore. 

“ The  eager  Islanders  one  by  one 
Counted  the  shots  of  her  signal  gun, 

And  heard  the  crash  as  she  drove  right  on. 

“ Into  the  teetli  of  death  she  sped  ; 

(May  God  forgive  the  hands  that  fed 
The  false  lights  over  the  Rocky  Head  ! ) 

“ O men  and  brothers  1 What  sights  were  there  ! 

White  upturned  faces,  hands  stretched  in  prayer  ! 

Where  waves  had  pity,  could  ye  not  spare? 

“ Down  swooped  the  wreckers  like  birds  of  prey. 

Tearing  the  heart  of  the  ship  away, 

And  the  dead  had  never  a word  to  say. 

“And  there  with  a ghastly  shimmer  and  shine, 

Over  the  rocks  and  the  seething  brine, 

They  burned  the  wreck  of  the  Palatine. 

“ In  their  cruel  hearts  as  they  homeward  sped, 

‘ The  sea  and  the  rocks  are  dumb,’  they  said, 

‘ There’ll  be  no  reckoning  with  the  dead.’  ” 

Muck  of  tke  report  of  tke  Palatine  barbarity  is  traceable 
to  one  Mark  Dodge , an  Islander,  and  a maniac,  wko,  it  is 
said  by  good  authority,  burned  tke  only  windmill  then  upon 
tke  Island.  He  is  said  to  have  been  silent  when  the  Pala- 
tine was  named  to  him,  and  from  this  silence  it  has  been 
insinuated  that  he  participated  in  her  wreck  and  burning. 
But  this  is  hardly  sufficient  testimony  to  make  an  intelligent 
person  believe  that  a Christian  colony  had  been  converted 
into  a band  of  pirates. 

There  was  a time,  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  years  ago, 
when  much  was  said  of  Block  Island  in  connection  with 
pirates,  and  yet  the  Islanders  may  have  been  entirely  inno- 
cent of  piracy.  For  an  account  of  the  capture  of  pirates 


THE  PALATINE. 


103 


from  Block  Island,  and  recovery  of  their  money',  in  the 
case  of  the  British  pirates,  see  Colonial  Hist,  of  N.  Y., 
vol.  iv,  p.  512.  Also,  for  an  account  of  the  pirate  vessels 
Ranger  and  Fortune,  headed  for  Block  Island  when  cap- 
tured by  the  Greyhound,  in  1723,  twenty-six  of  whose 
pirates  were  hung  at  Newport,  on  Gravelly  Point,  July  19, 
1723,  see  R.  I.  Colonial  Records,  vol.  iv,  pp.  329  and  331. 

In  1740  the  Rhode  Island  General  Assembly  voted  an 
appropriation  of  £13  13.s.  "‘for  victuals  and  drink  to  the 
pirates  at  Block  Island,  and  their  guards.”  Many  persons 
abroad  may  have  heard  frequent  mention  of  “ Block  Island 
pirates,”  without  distinguishing  those  desperate  prisoners 
from  the  native  citizens  of  the  Island  with  whom  the 
government  could  safely  trust  those  criminals,  which  could 
not  have  been  done  if  the  Islanders  had  been  piratical. 

There  is  ample  evidence  of  the  civil  and  religious  good 
order  of  Block  Island  from  the  time  it  was  settled  to  the 
present.  It  bears  a favorable  comparison  with  any  other 
part  of  New  England.  Its  humanity  to  the  shipwrecked 
is  well  authenticated.  According  to  Mr.  Perry’s  investiga- 
tions the  unfortunate  passengers  of  the  Palatine  were  kindly 
received  by  the  Islanders,  and  from  his  research  we  can 
learn  of  only  one  ship  Palatine  from  authentic  records,  and 
she  was  wrecked  (not  burned  at  Block  Island)  in  the  Bay 
of  Bengal.  In  1704,  on  finding  a dead  body  floating  near 
the  shore  the  Islanders  at  once  summoned  a jury  of  inquest, 
and  in  1755  the  sloop  Martha  and  Hannah , Capt.  William 
Griffin,  from  Halifax  to  New  York,  was  stranded  on  the 
Island.  The  captain  was  drowned,  and  the  crew  were 
brought  ashore,  and  when  his  body  was  recovered,  an 
inquest  was  held  by  town  authority,  and  all  was  done  that 
the  best  society  could  require.  The  very  gravestones  of 
the  old  Cemetery  of  the  Island,  as  well  as  its  written 
records  of  more  than  two  centuries;  and  the  relations  of 
several  of  its  families  to  Benjamin  Franklin,  to  Maj.-Gen. 


104 


HISTORY  OP  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


Nathaniel  Greene,  to  Governors  Ward  - and  Greene  of 
Revolutionary  fame,  to  the  Rev.  Samuel  Niles,  a native  of 
the  Island,  and  the  first  student  at  college  from  Rhode 
Island;  and  also  to  Roger  Williams,  are  an  overwhelming 
protest  against  the  defenceless  calumny  that  the  Islanders 
killed  the  inmates  of  the  Palatine,  and  then  burned  the 
vessel.  Why  should  they  burn  her  ? The  writer  has  never 
been  able  to  obtain  an  answer  to  this  inquiry,  and  he  does 
not  believe  any  can  be  given  that  would  bear  a minute’s 
investigation.  If  the  author  of  our  lying  legend  had  said 
that  the  Islanders  took  the  Palatine  all  to  pieces,  and  care- 
fully preserved  every  sail,  every  rope,  every  foot  of  her 
timbers,  and  every  bolt,  all  of  which  were  of  great  value 
to  them,  he  would  have  had  corroborative  testimony  in  the 
nature  of  things.  But  everything  is  against  the  barbarous 
notion  that, — 

“ Over  the  rocks  and  the  seething  brine, 

They  burned  the  wreck  of  the  Palatine.” 

Even  if  she  were  burned,  her  burning  would  have  no  more 
connection  with  the  strange  light  on  the  Sound  than  it 
would  have  with  the  moon.  No  one  ever  saw  the  name 
Palatine  on  that  “Ghost  of  Fire,”  and  there  is  no  more 
reason  for  calling  it  by  that  name  than  there  is  for  applying 
to  it  any  other  name. 

This,  then,  seems  to  be  a fair  analysis  of  the  legend  of 
the  Palatine:  that  it  consists  of  two  parts — Fads,  and 
Fiction. 

In  the  first  part  it  is  evident  that  there  was  a ship  Pala- 
tine; that  she  landed  diseased  passengers  on  Block  Island; 
that  she  was  from  Holland ; that  she  was  finally  wrecked  in 
the  Bay  of  Bengal  in  1784;  that  a strange  light,  called  the 
Palatine  Light,  appeared  upon  what  is  now  known  as  Block 
Island  Sound,  at  the  beginning  of  the  nineteenth  century; 
that  this  light  at  times  had  the  appearance  of  a vessel;  that 
it  attracted  much  attention,  but  received  no  satisfactory 


THE  PALATINE. 


105 


explanation;  and  that  it  had  no  relation  whatever  to  the 
ship  Palatine. 

In  the  second , or  fictitious  part  of  this  legend  'we  find 
much  that  seems  traceable  to  “Dutch  Kattern ,”  the  low  bred 
woman  who  married  a negro  slave,  was  a fortune-teller, 
was  believed  to  be  a witch,  and  was  a Palatine  passenger; 
to  Mark  Dodge , the  Island  maniac  and  mill-burner,  who  was 
silent  when  he  heard  others  talking  of  the  Palatine;  to  the 
Mr.  Hazard  who  gave  his  version  to  Mr.  Whittier,  and  to 
others,  in  whose  fancy  the  ship  Palatine  has  had  a trans- 
migration into  the  mysterious  light  on  the  Sound. 

The  following  version  of  the  Palatine  Legend  from  its 
venerable  and  well-known  author  will  be  read  with  interest 
for  several  reasons,  and  not  least  for  the  poetic  genius 
which  he  has  displayed.  His  impressions  of  the  legend 
were  formed  in  early  life,  when  his  father  and  brother  lived 
in  sight  of  Block  Island,  on  the  main  land,  and  said  brother 
was  a teacher  on  the  Island  in  the  period  of  the  appearance 
of  the  Palatine  Light,  and  they  were  familiar  with  its 
existence  on  the  Sound.  Another  witness  of  this  Phe- 
nomenon who  lived  in  Rhode  Island  just  opposite  to  Block 
Island,  wrote  from  Napoli,  Cattaraugus  Co.,  N.  Y..  March 
4,  1878,  as  follows: — “About  the  burning  Palatine  ship.” — 
“I  have  seen  her  eight  or  ten  times  or  more.  In  those 
early  days  nobody  doubted  her  being  sent  by  an  Almighty 
Power  to  punish  those  wicked  men  ■who  murdered  her 
passengers  and  crew.  After  the  last  of  these  were . dead 
she  was  never  more  seen.  We  lived  when  I was  young  in 
Charlestown,  directly  opposite  Block  Island,  where  we  used 
to  have  a plain  view  of  the  burning  ship.” — “ Benjamin 
Congdon." 

How  she  punished  the  guilty,  and  whether  she  punished 
them  more  than  she  did  the  innocent,  are  open  questions. 


106 


H1STOKY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


THE  PHANTOM  SHIP. 

(By  Rev.  A.  G.  Palmer,  D.D.,  of  Stonington,  Conn.) 

Abreast  Point  Judith’s  sea-girt  light, 

Whose  radiance,  intermittent,  bright, 

Cutting  the  thick  and  heavy  night — 

Lights  up  the  rough  Atlantic’s  wave, 

The  imperiled  mariner  to  save, 

From  reef,  and  wreck,  and  yawning  grave. 

Some  twenty  miles  away,  or  more, 

The  mirage,  on  Block  Island’s  shore, 

Herald’s  the  “ line  gale  ” evermore. 

This  island,  with  its  base  of  rock, 

Formed  in  some  geologic  shock, 

Seems  a vast  monolithic  block, 

Boldly,  uprising  from  the  sea, 

As  if  from  all  eternity, 

It  had  been  anchored,  there  to  be. 

A huge  breakwater,  east  and  west, 

Forming  a lee,  where  ships  might  rest. 

When  by  the  fierce  southeaster  pressed, 

Breaking  the  heavy  swell  and  tide, 

Against  its  clay-bound  bluffs  outside, 

Despite  the  ocean’s  wrath  and  jjride. 

Southwest,  some  three  leagues,  bold  Montauk, 

Like  Dover  with  its  cliffs  of  chalk, 

Rises,  the  spiteful  tides  to  balk ; 

Sending  abroad  its  glinting  light 
In  alternating  flashes  bright, 

Now  seen,  now  unseen,  through  the  night. 

Northwest,  six  leagues,  Stonington’s  ray 
Blends  with  Watch  Ilill,  across  the  Bay; 

Point  Judith,  east,  ten  leagues  away. 

Across  this  land-locked  intervale 
Of  ocean,  white  capped  by  the  gale, 

Vessels  may  scud,  ’ncath  tight  reefed  sail 


THE  PHANTOM  SHIP. 


ie" 


In  summer,  under  genial  skies, 

The  waves  in  languid  wooings  rise, 

To  kiss  the  earth  that  seaward  lies. 

With  opening  spring  the  hills  are  green, 
And  sheltered  valleys  warm  between. 

Stand  early  dressed  in  verdant  sheen. 

Its  atmosphere,  soothed  and  beguiled. 

Of  winter’s  chill,  is  pure  and  mild — 

A bracing  tonic  undefiled. 

Its  granite  soil,  though  not  in  wealth 
Abounding,  yet  brings  robust  health — 

A treasure  free  from  “ rust  and  stealth.” 

Its  boats,  two  masted,  sweep  the  sea 
Around,  with  patient  industry, 

To  find  where  choicest  fish  may  be. 

Often  they  drift  across  the  main^ 

Bearing  their  piscatory  gain, 

To  supplement  their  living  plain. 

At  Stonington,  in  days  gone  by, 

They  came,  at  times,  their  trade  to  ply ; 

In  their  small  way  to  sell  and  buy — 

Changing  the  products  of  the  sea, 

For  what  their  household’s  wants  might  be, 
Tobacco,  sugar,  coffee,  tea — 

Returning  with  their  little  store, 

With  wife  and  children  home  once  more. 
Recounting  their  adventures  o’er. 

A rural  hermit-like  seclusion, 

Free  from  the  outside  world’s  intrusion, 
Good  livelihood,  but  no  profusion. 

Here  men  and  women  lived  and  died. 
Strangers  alike  to  wealth  and  pride, 

With  their  poor  way  well  satisfied. 


108 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


Religion  here  was  honored  too — 

A faith  unfeigned,  primitive,  true — 
Pervading,  now,  the  island  through. 

* -*■  -*■  *■ 
Let  this  suffice  : I haste  to  tell, 

A story,  told  by  one  so  well 
In  part,  no  verse  may  his  excel. 

If  but  allowed  to  supplement 
The  Palatine,  of  Whittier’s  Tent 
Upon  the  Beach,  no  compdiment, 

It  matters  not,  from  where  or  whence, 

Or  with  what  generous  pretence, 

Could  be  more  grateful  to  my  sense, 

I tell  the  story  as  t’was  told 
In  my  young  ears  times  manifold, 

By  gray  haired  men  and  very  old, 

And  women4 too,  as  well  as  men, 

With  their  loquacious  acumen, 

Described  the  how  and  where  and  when. 

“ Why,  yes,”  they  said,  with  knowing  mien, 
And  nods  significant  between, 

“ The  Phantom  Ship  we’ve  often  seen.” 

“ Before  a storm  at  edge  of  night, 

Betwixt  the  darkness  and  the  light, 

The  Palatine  looms  up  to  sight. 

“ Out  of  an  overhanging  cloud, 

Unfolding  from  a misty  shroud, 

She  sweeps,  a ship,  full  rigged  and  proud, 

“ With  sails  all  set,  masts  towering  high, 
Piercing  the  low,  storm  laden  sky, 

She  seems  about  to  pass  us  by. 

“ Then,  as  by  some  dire  fate  ruled  o’er, 
Despite  the  breakers’  warning  roar, 

She  tacks  and  plunges  to  the  shore. 


TIIE  PHANTOM  SHIP. 


109 


“ And  as  she  cuts  through  mist  and  haze, 

A shimmering  light  runs  up  her  stays. 

The  Phantom  ship  is  all  ablaze ; 

“ Her  yards  and  topmasts  all  alight, 
Reddening  the  deepening  gloom  of  night, 
Fall  to  her  deck,  all  glowing  bright. 

“ Then  with  a fiery,  hissing  sound, 

Amid  the  surging  waters  round, 

She  sinks  into  the  depths  profound.” 

Such  is  the  story,  which  a child, 

Many  an  evening’s  hour  beguiled 
With  its  recital  weird  and  wild. 

It  may  not  in  all  parts  agree, 

With  other  versions,  but  will  be 
Simply  as  it  was  told  to  me. 

I think  I may,  quite  safely  too, 

Poetic  license  kept  in  view, 

Assume  the  tale  historic  true. 

*-  * * -*  # * 
About  one  hundred  years  ago, 

The  time  exact  I do  not  know, 

Occurred  this  frightful  scene  of  woe, 

A tragedy  of  black  design, 

And  crime  blood-red  in  every  line  : 

The  burning  of  the  Palatine. 

’Twas  on  an  equinoctial  night, 

When  sea-fowl,  with  instinctive  fright, 
Landward,  for  shelter,  take  their  flight. 

Dark  clouds  draped  heavily  the  sky; 
Shrouding  the  stars,  God’s  lamps  on  high, 
Hung  out  to  cheer  the  sailor’s  eye. 

While  round  the  island’s  jagged  shore, 

The  cold  waves  beat  with  muffled  roar. 
Their  dirge  of  storms  and  shipwrecks  o’er — 


110 


HISTOBY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAXD. 


The  wreckers,  on  the  alert  for  game, 
Hastened  to  send  on  high  a flame, 

The  notice  of  some  craft  to  claim. 

Inland,  on  a commanding  height, 

They  lit  their  beacon  fire  that  night, 

As  if  it  were  a headland  light, 

Placed  there  by  Government,  to  say, 

“ No  perils  lie  in  your  pathway, 

The  dangerous  shore  is  far  away.” 

Just  then  a ship  from  out  the  sky, 
Sweeping,  they  watch  with  straining  eye — 
She  would  have  passed  the  island  by — 

Had  not  that  light  lured  her  to  keep 
Her  onward  course,  with  unchecked  sweep, 
Pledging  the  waters,  reefless,  deep — 

Onward  she  dashed,  till  struck  the  rock: 
Shivering  beneath  the  stunning  shock, 

She  foundered  in  the  fatal  lock — 

And  then,  the  booming  signal  gun 
Out  on  the  air  its  message  flung, 

Telling  the  horrid  crime  was  done. 

The  wreckers,  at  the  lurid  flash, 

As  if  possessed  of  Demons  rash, 

Plunged  to  the  shore  with  headlong  dash : 

Swift  to  their  boats  and  oars  they  flew, 
Cutting  the  crested  billows  through — 

This  outlaw,  bandit,  wrecking  crew. 

They  pushed  their  keels,  with  oars  astrain, 
And  with  strong  sinews,  swept  the  main, 

In  hungry  haste  to  clutch  the  gain — 

And  as  they  near  the  stranded  wreck, 

Their  speed,  with  oars  reversed,  they  check, 
Sweep  up  her  sides  and  pour  on  deck. 


THE  PHANTOM  SHIP. 


Ill 


The  crew  and  passengers,  without 
Misgivings  or  suspicious  doubt, 

Eeceive  them  with  a cheer  and  shout, 

But,  as  the  flickering  lights  reveal 
Dark  brutal  faces,  o’er  them  steal 
Grave  apprehensions,  for  their  weal. 

The  pirates  now  with  manner  rough, 

And  oaths,  their  courtesies  rebuff, 

And  rifle  them  of  all  their  stuff — 

Wardrobe  and  every  precious  thing, 
Necklace  of  gold  and  diamond  ring 
Into  their  bags,  in  haste,  they  fling. 

The  ship’s  rich  freight  and  merchandise. 
Her  stores  and  plentiful  supplies, 

Of  wealth  a mingled  sacrifice, 

They  smuggle  hastily  ashore, 

Amid  the  breakers’  dash  and  roar, 

Till  the  last  load  is  ferried  o’er. 

And  then,  ’mid  shrieks,  despairing  wild, 
From  husband,  wife,  parent,  and  child, 
Young  man  and  maiden  undefiled, 

While  knees  were  bent,  in  anguished  prayer. 
And  women  with  disheveled  hair, 

Wailed  fiercely  out  their  blank  despair, 

They  fired  the  ship ; the  flames  shot  high. 
Flaring  against  the  frowning  sky, 

Tinged  to  an  angry  fiery  dye — 

Tarred  rope  and  sail  and  yard  and  spar 
Threw  up  their  ghastly  streams  afar, 

The  whole  ship  one  huge  blazing  star. 

And  as  the  rigging  burned  and  fell 
Upon  the  deck,  all  helped  to  swell 
The  flaming  of  this  floating  hell. 


112 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


No  lives  were  spared ; none  left  to  swear 
What  deeds  of  horror  were  done  there. 
Under  that  night  of  black  despair. 

She  burned  down  to  the  water’s  edge. 

Then  as  if  riven  by  a wedge, 

Bilged  on  the  underlying  ledge. 

So  perished  in  that  fearful  night, 

Not  by  neglect  or  oversight, 

But  by  the  wreckers’  treacherous  light, 

By  foul  and  murderous  design. 

And  crime  blood  red  in  every  line, 

That  goodly  ship  the  Palatine. 

****** 
The  next  year  as  the  autumn  neared, 
Leading  the  equinox,  appeared 
The  staunch  old  ship,  full  rigged  and  steered 

Boldly  on  to  the  fatal  shore, 

Where  she  had  struck,  the  year  before. 

And  sank,  ’twas  thought,  to  rise  no  more. 

And,  yearly,  while  one  mutineer 
Survived,  did  that  old  ship  appear. 

As  the  autumnal  storm  drew  near. 

Coming  at  dark  amid  the  haze, 

Of  thickening  tempest,  all  ablaze, 

To  meet  the  wrecker’s  guilty  gaze  ; 

Throwing,  afar,  her  ghastly  light, 

As  on  that  unforgotten  night, 

Then  sinking,  hissing  out  of  sight. 

But  when  the  last  old  wrecker  died, 

The  tempest  howled  and  dashed  the  tide 
Ashore  with  rage  intensified. 

The  island  with  its  wrath  was  shook, 

In  every  corner  every  nook; 

All  faces  wore  a pallid  look — 


THE  PHANTOM  SHIP. 


113 


The  thunder  bellowed,  lightnings  flashed, 
And  billows  in  their  fury  lashed 
The  shore,  and  o’er  the  island  dashed. 

It  seems  as  if  each  element 
Of  vengeance  were  the  complement, 
Charged  with  some  direful  punishment. 

The  dying  wrecker  raved  and  swore 
Horrid  blasphemies,  ’mid  the  roar 
And  crash  of  tempest,  on  the  shore. 

Peering  into  the  blackened  night, 

He  started  back  in  palsied  fright, 

As  maddened  by  tome  monstrous  sight— 

His  eyes  blood-fevered,  wildly  turned. 

As  memory’s  fiery  record  burned, 

Into  his  soul  the  grace  long  spurned. 

Writhing  as  if  a demon’s  stare 
Fastened  on  him  its  scorching  glare. 

He  crouched  and  wailed  in  wild  despair. 

And  then  the  Phantom  Ship  once  more, 
Down  on  the  island,  blazing,  bore, 

And  boldly  swept  towards  the  shore. 

But  when  the  wrecker  breathed  his  last, 
The  tempest  madly  shrieked  Arast ! 

And  all  the  storm  was  hushed  and  past. 

And  never  since  that  woeful  night 
When  took  that  guilty  soul  its  flight, 

Has  come  the  Phantom  Ship  to  sight. 


114 


HISTORY  OR  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


Setting  false  lights  on  the  main  land  opposite  Block 
Island,  and  the  wreck  thus  caused  there,  ought  to  have 
had  a fire-ship  to  punish  the  guilty  deacon  whom  the  poet 
thus  describes: 

THE  CHARLESTOWN  WRECK. 

By  Charles  H.  Denison  of  San  Francisco. 

“ Below  some  rocks  on  Charlestown  beach, 

Almost  as  far  as  eye  can  reach, 

Within  the  sweep  of  rolling  surf, 

And  distant  far  from  emerald  turf, 

Embedded  deep  in  shifting  sand 
That  fringes  all  the  Township’s  land, 

Are  remnants  of  a noble  ship, 

Around  whose  ribs  the  algae  drip, 

In  graceful  streamers,  each  ebb  tide, 

Like  Erin’s  banners  flaunting  wide  ; 

While  gurgling  through  her  timbers  stout, 

The  briny  sea  goes  in  and  out, 

Hissing  and  spouting  all  day  long 
In  low,  sad  tones,  a shipwreck  song. 

“ Beyond  the  reach  of  swelling  tide, 

And  just  below  the  green  hillside, 

In  years  gone  by  an  old  house  stood, 

Its  beams  were  made  of  white  oak  wood, 

Where  hard  wood  pins  with  sharpened  point, 

To  hold  more  firmly  mortised  joint, 

Were  driven  through  the  tenon’s  side 
To  keep  such  joints  from  opening  wide; 

While  at  its  end  outside,  alone 
A chimney  stood,  of  gray-wacke  stone. 

To  keep  the  mansion  house  upright 
Through  heavy  tempests  day  and  night. 

Fixed  in  its  top  a stone  of  slate 
Informed  you  of  the  builder’s  date. 

The  outside  oven  a child  in  ’teens 
Might  know  was  used  for  baking  beans. 

“ The  heavy  outer  oaken  door 
Directly  opened  on  the  floor ; 


THE  CHARLESTOWN  WRECK. 


115 


No  vestibule  or  ‘ entry  ’ there 
Protected  from  the  gusty  air, 

Yet  summer’s  sun  or  winter’s  rain, 
Against  its  panels  beat  in  vain. 

Within  its  cheerful  owner  sat ; 

Beneath  his  chair  the  purring  cat ; 

In  fro  it,  and  glowing  at  his  feet, 

Was  piled  on  high  the  burning  peat. 
Diffusing'  warmth  about  the  room 
And  dissipating  winter’s  gloom. 

Each  chimney  corner  held  a boy, 

His  father’s  pride,  his  mother’s  joy ; 

And  cuddling  there,  with  flaxen  curl 
And  azure  eye,  a laughing  girl, 

Reflection  of  the  mother  fair 

Who  sat  in  her  creaking  old  arm-chair. 

“All  through  that  day  the  murky  skies 
Had  taught  a lesson  to  the  wise, 

And  every  dweller  on  that  shore 
Had  listened  to  the  surge’s  roar; 

Had  seen  with  dread  each  hissing  wave 
High  up  the  tiny  sand  hills  lave ; 
Observed  the  breakers  foam 
Far  seaward  with  their  snowy  .comb, 

And  dashing  on  with  thundering  shocks, 
Break  into  spray  on  ‘ Noyes’  Rocks.’ 

“ In  leaden  sky  went  down  the  sun, 

Just  as  the  tempest  had  begun, 

And  now  came  fiercely  o’er  the  main, 

In  dreadful  gusts,  the  blinding  rain. 

“ Through  darkness  deep,  lit  up  by  spray. 
That  faintly  showed  the  dangerous  way. 
Reeling  before  the  dreadful  gale, 

Without  the  vestige  of  a sail, 

A noble  ship  came  driving  fast, 

Her  voyage  finished,  at  last. 

“As  avalanche  from  mountain  height, 
When  moving  with  majestic  might, 

Takes  up  the  crag  amid  the  snow, 

And  hurls  it  thundering  deep  below — 


116 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


So  this  doomed  ship  on  crested  wave 
Was  hurled  resistless  to  her  grave, 
Striking-  the  outer  bar  of  sand 
A half  mile  distant  from  the  land, 

O’er  which  the  breaking  waves  ran  high 
And  threw  their  billows  to  the  sky. 

“Describe  the  scenes  that  there  occurred, 
Repeat  the  prayers  their  Maker  heard, 

I cannot ; it  would  make  you  pale 
Ere  I recited  half  the  tale : 

Imagine  it,  all  ye  who  can, 

’Twas  never  told  by  living  man. 

If  any  heard  that  dreadful  crash 
They  reckoned  it  the  breakers’  dash; 

If  any  heard  that  dying  wail, 

They  thought  it  shrieking  of  the  gale — 
No  intermission  of  the  roar 
Of  dashing  rollers  on  the  shore 
Gave  evidence  beneath  the  waves 
A score  of  men  had  found  their  graves. 
About  the  middle  of  the  night 
The  tempest  reached  its  utmost  height. 
But  never  failed  that  light  to  gleam, 

Or  from  that  friendly  window  stream, 
Until  the  wind  had  died  away 
At  ushering  the  ‘ break  o’  day,’ 

When  Deacon  Wilcox  sought  his  bed 
And  laid  to  rest  his  nodding  head. 

“Like  all  the  dwellers  on  the  shore, 

The  Deacon  did  a wreck  deplore, 

With  tenderness  his  heart  o’erflowed 
Toward  those  who  on  the  billows  rode; 
His  house  was  e’er  at  their  command, 

To  them  he  had  an  open  hand, 

His  candle  on  tempestuous  night 
Became  to  them  a beacon-light, 

A refuge  also,  well  they  knew 
Was  offered  there  to  shipwrecked  crew— 
But  inconsistency  again 
In  Deacon’s  character  was  plain  : 


THE  CHARLESTOWN  WRECK. 


117 


‘ Whatever  comes  from  out  the  sea,’ 

He  always  said,  ‘ belongs  to  me ; ’ — 

A godsend  was  a stranded  cargo, 

On  which  his  conscience  laid  embargo ; — 

“ His  golden  rule  was  thus  applied 
To  waifs  upon  the  swelling  tide  : — 

‘ The  ownership  by  him  is  lost 
Whose  goods  in  ship  are  tempest-tossed. 
The  ownership  in  him  remains 
Who  rescues  them,  and  who  regains.’ 

“ The  Deacon  slept  while  I’ve  told  this 
In  form  of  a parenthesis, 

And  ere  he  wakes  return  with  me 
To  his  old  mansion  by  the  sea. 

The  dreadful  night  at  length  had  passed, 
And  cheerful  daylight  came  at  last — 

Ah ! never  will  the  night  be  o’er 
To  those  who  floated  on  the  shore. 

The  gale  had  sensibly  decreased, 

The  shrieking  of  the  wind  had  ceased, 
But  still  the  scuds  drove  through  the  sky. 
The  thundering  surges  yet  dashed  high, 
Though  now  to  all  ’twas  evident 
The  storm  its  force  had  nearly  spent. 

“ What  treasure-trove  the  Deacon  gained 
That  day  before  the  sun  had  waned, 

I never  knew,  I cannot  tell, 

He  kept  his  business  close  and  well. 

But  afterward  his  oak  sideboard 
Had  silver  plate  within  it  stored, 

And  oft  in  his  spacious  pocket 
A watch  appeared,  with  golden  locket ; 
When  asked  if  these  were  heirlooms  old, 
This  story  Deacon  Wilcox  told, 

And  when  it  was  no  longer  new 
He  might  have  thought  it  almost  true, — 

“ ‘As  I one  day  walked  on  the  beach, 

The  line  of  waves  just  out  of  reach, 

I heard  a strange  and  curious  noise. 

At  first  I thought  it  was  my  boys 


118 


HISTORY  OB'  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


Who  imitate  the  call  of  birds, 

The  granting  swine,  the  lowing  herds, 

But  looking  closer  at  the  matter 
I saw  it  was  a silver  platter, 

Which  every  time  the  waves  did  wash 

Gave  out  the  sound  ‘ 1 slop  swash ! slop  swash ! n 

“ ‘Another  day  I walked  along 
The  sandy  beach  and  hummed  a song, 

Heard  something  go  ‘ tick,  whiz  ! tick,  whiz ! ’ 

Looked  down  and  saw  a watch-like  phiz; 

I snatched  it  from  the  moistened  sand, 

And  when  I had  it  in  my  hand 
I saw  a time-piece,  quaint  and  old, 

Its  face  and  cases,  British  gold. 

And  well  it  was  I came  that  way, 

It  had  been  spoiled  another  day.’ 

“ These  stories  of  the  watch  and  platter 
Were  always  sure  to  end  the  matter — 

The  questioner  polite  receded — 

He  had  the  information  needed.” 

In  the  foregoing  extract  from  Mr.  Denison’s  poem  entitled 
“Rhode  Island we  find  it  strongly  insinuated  that  on  the 
main  shore  of  Block  Island  Sound,  as  well  as  “over  the 
rocky  Head,”  false  lights  were  set  for  wrecking  vessels. 
Supposing  this  to  be  true,  may  we  not  also  suppose  it  to 
have  been  a cunning  shift  in  the  Charlestown  people,  to  say 
of  the  Islanders,  as  Mr.  Congdon  did, — “Nobody  doubted 
her  [the  fire-ship]  being  sent  by  an  Almighty  Power  to 
punish  those  wicked  men”?  Was  she  not  sent  to  pun- 
ish the  “ wicked  men  ” of  Charlestown  who  saw  her  so 
frequently,  and  had  such  deep  convictions  of  her  awful 
mission  ? Perhaps  some  wicked  man  over  there  died  a 
few  minutes  before  the  Palatine  Light  went  out  for  the 
last  time. 


SCHOOLS. — LIBRARY. 


lid 


SCHOOLS  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 

The  first  one  of  which  we  have  any  account  was  located 
a little  east  of  the  north  end  of  Fresh  Pond,  and  was  a 
common  school  in  which  were  taught  the  alphabet,  spell- 
ing, reading,  writing,  and  arithmetic.  It  existed  when  it 
was  a frequent  occurrence  for  men  to  sign  a paper  by  each 
making  his  “mark.” 

The  next  school  was  opened  on  the  Neck,  and  according 
to  tradition  was  quite  largely  attended,  and  was  conducted 
in  the  usual  manner  of  schools  on  the  main  land.  These 
have  been  followed  by  others,  one  on  the  West  Side,  one 
near  the  Harbor,  and  one  at  the  Gulley.  All  the  old  houses 
of  these  five  schools  have  disappeared,  and  new  ones  with 
modern  improvements  have,  been  substituted.  But  few 
populations  of  less  than  twelve  hundred  have  sustained 
five  schools  in  a better  condition.  In  1857  in  the  School 
Commissioner’s  Report  it  was  said  of  them:  — “They  are 
as  good  schools  as  those  in  any  of  the  country  towns_  in  the 
State.” 

The  Island  High  School,  at  the  Center,  was  opened  for 
the  first  time  Nov.  29,  1875,  by  Mr.  Arthur  W.  Brown,  of 
Middletown,  R.  I.,  with  sixteen  pupils  during  the  first 
term.  After  several  terms  of  successful  studies  under  its 
first  principal,  as  he  left  the  Island,  highly  esteemed  by 
many  warm  friends,  the  school  has  continued  to  prosper 
under  the  management  of  its  present  principal,  Mr.  C.  E. 
Perry,  a native  of  the  Island.  As  an  act  of  encouragement 
the  town  gave  to  the  school  the  free  use  of  the  Town  Hall. 
One  of  its  graduates,  Mr.  Clarence  Littlefield,  is  now  a 
student  in  Brown  Hniversity,  and  others  have  become 
teachers,  and  are  preparing  for  college. 

THE  ISLAND  LIBRARY. 

The  first  action  for  its  establishment  was  on  March  6, 
1875,  by  the  inauguration  of  “ The  Island  Library  Associa- 


120 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


tion,”  at  the  office  of  Dr.  T.  H.  Mann,  who  was  chosen 
president.  By  the  efforts  of  friends  of  the  enterprise, 
especially  of  Mr.  A . W.  Brown,  its  librarian,  contributions 
of  money  and  books  were  obtained  within  two  years  to 
make  the  number  of  volumes  on  its  shelves  in  the  Town 
Hall  more  than  five  hundred.  Donations  of  books  from 
visitors  of  means  and  friends  of  learning  would  be  well 
appropriated  on  this  Island,  by  increasing  its  library. 

PRESIDENT  GRANT’S  VISIT. 

While  many  men  of  eminence  have  visited  Block  Island, 
no  one  has  done  it  more  honor  by  a brief  stay  there  than  did 
President  Grant,  on  the  18th  of  August,  1875.  In  compli- 
ance with  an  invitation  from  Hon.  Nicholas  Ball,  of  the 
Island,  extended  to  him  through  Senators  H.B.  Anthony  and 
Maj.-Gen.  Burnside,  the  President,  accompanied  by  his 
Secretary  Bristow,  Attorney-General  Pierrepont,  and  Sena- 
tors Anthony  and  Burnside,  spent  a few  hours  on  the 
Island,’  dining  at  the  Ocean  Yiew  Hotel,  where  he  shook 
hands  with  a respectable  number,  and  after  riding  about 
some  time  went  aboard  the  revenue  cutter  Grant , which 
steamed  and  sailed  off  at  3 p.  m.  with  her  tall  and  grace- 
ful three  masts  for  Cape  May. 

ISLAND  CHURCHES. 

No  church  was  immediately  organized  at  the  time  the 
Island  was  settled  by  its  little  colony  of  sixteen  families 
from  Massachusetts.  But  they  carried  with  them  the  fun- 
damental principles  of  a Christian  society.  Before  they  set 
foot  upon  the  Island  they  united  in  setting  apart  a con- 
siderable portion  of  it  to  be  forever  known  and  used  as  the 
“Ministers  Land,”  and  for  more  than  two  centuries  it  has 
been  devoted  to  the  support  of  the  Christian  religion. 
They  were  kindred  to  Roger  Williams,  spiritually,  and 
afterward  by  marriage,  and  he  frequently  associated  with 


ISLAND  CHURCHES. 


121 


its  early  settlers.  During  a period  of  ninety  years  the 
venerable  Simon  Ray,  and  his  son  Simon,  Jr.,  as  lay 
preachers,  without  ordination,  without  salary,  or  meeting- 
house, conducted  public  worship  among  their  townsmen, 
during  a part  of  which  time  the  same  was  done  by  the 
influential  Capt.  James  Sands.  His  grandson,  Samuel 
Niles,  in  his  accounts  of  the  first  settlers  of  the  Island, 
where  he  was  born,  has  incidently  given  the  religious 
characteristics  of  those  settlers.  He,  as  the  first  student 
from  Rhode  Island  to  enter  college,  after  graduating  at 
Harvard,  returned  to  the  Island  a Congregationalist,  and 
there,  a licentiate,  officiated  as  the  first  settled  minister. 
Mr.  Niles,  fifty  years  pastor  at  Braintree,  Mass.,  said  of  his 
grandfather  Sands: — “He  was  the  leading  man  among 
them.”  “He  also  was  a promoter  of  religion  in  his  bene- 
factions to  the  minister  they  had  there  in  his  day,  though 
not  altogether  so  agreeable  to  him  as  he  might  be  desired, 
as  being  inclined  to  the  Anabaptist  persuasion By  this  is 
meant  that  Mr.  Sands,  was  a Baptist,  and  disagreed  with 
his  Congregationalist  preacher,  his  own  grandson.  “He 
devoted  his  house  for  the  worship  of  God,  where  it  was 
attended  every  Lord’s  day  or  Sabbath,”  and  the  Hon.  'Win. 
P.  Sheffield  of  Newport,  a native  of  the  Island,  says  of  Mr. 
Sands  that  “ he  did  not  differ  in  religious  belief  from  the 
other  settlers.”  As  their  “ belief  ” at  that  time  was  very 
uncongenial  to  the  prevailing  “ belief  ” in  Massachusetts 
whence  they  emigrated,  and  where  there  was  an  abundance 
of  land  for  them,  we  find  the  probable  reason  for  their 
going  to  a remote  Island  then  inhabited  only  by  savages. 
There  they  were  safer  than  in  the  colony  from  which  they 
saw  others  banished.  There  they  could  enjoy  more  in  the 
possession  of  “soul  liberty ’’than  they  could  at  Braintree 
and  Boston  where  men  and  women  were  persecuted  for 
their  religion. 

The  first  call  to  a minister,  on  the  Island,  was  made  in 


122 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


March,  1700,  not  by  a church  hut  by  the  town,  at  a regular- 
meeting,  where  a preamble  equivalent  to  a brief  sermon 
was  signed  by  twenty -eight  freemen,  ten  by  “his  mark.” 
This  preamble  deeded  to  him  “five  acres,  giving  the 
right  and  disposition  thereof  to  Samuel  Niles  and  his 
heirs  forever.”  He  accepted  the  call,  accepted  the  land, 
but  either  he  as  a disciple  of  Harvard  College  was  not 
acceptable  to  his  Baptist  hearers,  or  they  were  not  congenial 
to  him,  and  he  sold  his  land  and  settled  in  Braintree,  where 
he  was  ordained  May  23,  1711. 

A missionary  period  of  about  fifty  years,  with  perhaps 
short  pastorates,  seems  to  have  intervened  between  the 
resignation  of  Mr.  Niles  and  another  permanent  settlement 
of  a minister.  In  1756  Rev.  Samuel  Maxwell,  a Baptist 
ordained  in  Swansea,  Mass.,  Apr.  18,  1733,  received  part 
of  the  rents  of  the  “Ministry  Lot,”  and  in  Sept.,  1758,  he 
received  from  the  Island  £124,  “old  tenor,”  “for  his  serving 
as  a minister  in  said  town  the  last  four  months.”  This' 
was  by  vote  at  a town  meeting.  The  “Ministry  Lot,”  in 
1756,  rented  for  “£400,  old  tenor,”  and  this  sum  was 
equivalent  to  $50.00,  and  Mr.  Maxwell’s  appropriation  from 
the  town  in  1758  was  $15.50. 

The  Island  religion  was  indicated  in  a town  vote  Aug.  28, 
1759,  to  employ  Rev.  David  Sprague  “so  long  as  said 
Sprague  shall  serve  the  inhabitants  of  the  town  by  preach- 
ing to  them  the  gospel  of  Christ  according  to  the  Scriptures 
of  truth,  making  them,  and  them  only  the  rules  of  his 
faith,  doctrine,  and  practice.”  He  complied  with  these 
terms  fifteen  years,  until  he  moved  from  the  Island  in 
the  summer  of  1775. 

The  first  church  on  the  Island  was  organized  under  Mr. 
Sprague’s  ministry.  He  had  been  ordained  on  the  12th  of 
July,  1739.  At  an  adjourned  meeting,  Oct.  3,  1772,  the 
organization  was  affected.  They  had  previously  drawn  up 
articles  of  faith  and  practice.  Their  services,  though  brief, 


ISLAND  CHURCHES. 


123 


were  comprehensive  and  solemn.  The  minister,  four 
brethren,  and  three  sisters  were  assembled,  and  “ then 
read  the  articles  of  fellowship  with  one  another,  and  then 
the  church  gave  Elder  Sprague  the  right  hand  of  fellow- 
ship to  administer  the  ordinances  of  God  as  an  evangelist.” 
Three  months  afterward,  for  the  appointment  of  a deacon, 
the  pastor,  at  a meeting,  called  upon  each  brother  “ to  pass 
single  before  the  Lord  to  see  whether  there  was  one  in  the 
church  that  was  called  of  God  to  the  office  of  a deacon.” 
Thomas  Dodge,  in  doing  so,  expressed  the  conviction  of 
his  call  to  that  service.  Then  the  pastor  “ met  him  in  a 
covenant  way  and  declared  that  he  believed  that  his  dedi- 
cation was  of  God,  and  gave  him  fellowship  in  the  office  of 
deacon.”  While  holding  this  office  during  the  Eevolution, 
without  a pastor,  until  1784,  he  gained  “a  good  degree,” 
for  he  was  then  ordained  as  the  successor  of  Mr.  Sprague. 

For  a view  of  the  succession  of  pastors  of  this  church, 
articles  of  faith,  etc.,  see  History  of  Block  Island. 

A Free-Will  Baptist  Church  was  organized  on  the  Island 
about  the  year  1820,  and  also  a Seventh- Day  Baptist  Church, 
in  April,  1864,  although  it  has  had  no  house  of  worship. 

One  of  the  remarkable  things  of  Block  Island  is  that 
while  the  Christian  religion  has  been  well  represented  here 
more  than  two  hundred  years,  in  an  average  population  of 
over  1,000  during  the  last  hundred  years,  only  one  denom- 
ination has  here  existed,  while  the  members  of  the  first 
church  at  one  time  were  over  four  hundred,  and  those  of 
the  other  two  were  one  hundred  and  fifty.  On  this  Island 
neither  sprinkling,  nor  pouring,  nor  signing  of  the  cross 
for  baptism  ; nor  human  grades  of  ecclesiastical  authority 
have  ever  been  recognized  by  its  inhabitants. 

The  Meeting-Houses  of  the  Island  have  indicated  a com- 
mendable zeal  for  religion.  After  having  held  their  meet- 
ings at  the  private  houses  of  Simon  Ray  and  his  son,  and 
of  Capt.  James  Sands  about  ninety  years,  they  built  their 


124 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


first  house  of  worship  near  the  north  end,  and  easterly  of 
the  Fresh  Pond,  of  which  the  Rev.  Dr.  Stiles  said,  in  1756, 
the  houses  of  the  Island  were,  “ all  but  two  or  three, 
within  two  and  a half  miles  of  the  meeting-house.”  From 
this  the  sparseness  of  the  population  oh  the  Neck  then  may 
be  inferred. 

The  second  meeting-house  of  the  first  church  was  built  in 
1814,  and  was  located  on  Cemetery  Hill,  “similar  and 
equal  in  appearance  to  those  of  others  of  the  country 
towns  of  the  state.”  It  had  “the  old  square  pews  and 
sounding  board,”  and  was  erected  by  the  town,  as  was  its 
predecessor.  It  was  subsequently  moved,  rebuilt,  and  has 
since  been  occupied  as  the  Town  Hall,  and  latterly  also  as 
the  High  School  building. 

The  third  meeting-house  of  said  church  was  located  on 
Gravel  Hill,  incorrectly  called  Graves  Hill  in  the  Plistory 
of  the  Island.  It  stood  a little  east  of  the  Center,  on  the 
north  side  of  the  road  from  the  Harbor  to  the  Center,  and 
on  the  first  little  hill  east  of  the  Center.  It  was  built  “ on 
shares,”  and  was  occupied  until  the  year  1857. 

The  fourth  meeting-house  of  the  first  church  was  dedicated 
on  the  25th  of  August,  1863,  at  which  time  the  steamer 
Canonicus  conveyed  from  Providence  and  Newport  eleven 
hundred  passengers,  then  “ one  of  the  largest  and  most 
agreeable  steamboat  excursions  ever  known.”  This  house 
cost  $ 2,500,  most  of  the  funds  having  been  procured  by 
the  energy  of  the  pastor,  Rev.  Albert  Gladwin.  The  first 
furnace  ever  seen  upon  the  Island  was  placed  in  this  house 
in  1875.  The  sailor  phrases  applied  to  this  novelty,  if 
recorded,  would  afford  much  amusement. 

The  first  Free-Will  meeting-house,  on  the  West  Side,  was 
erected  in  the  year  1853,  and  was  burned  in  the  year  1863. 
The  second  one  was  partially  built  in  1869,  but  was  demol- 
ished by  the  great  September  gale  of  that  year.  It  was 
intended  to  be  like  the  one  now  at  the  Center.  The  third 


ISLAND  CHURCHES. 


125 


house  erected  by  the  Free-Will  Baptists  is  the  one  which 
they  now  occupy. 

Seven  houses  of  worship,  as  seen  from  the  foregoing,  have 
been  erected  on  Bloek  Island  since  it  was  settled.  What 
population  that  has  never  equaled  fifteen  hundred  has 
done  better  ? Too  many  have  judged  of  the  Islanders  as 
unfairly  as  they  would  to  characterize  the  entire  city  of 
Boston  by  the  habits  of  a few  of  its  worst  sailors  and 
fanatics. 

Rev.  Charles  A.  Braithwaite  is  the  present  pastor  of  the 
First  Baptist  Church  of  the  Island,  at  the  Center,  and  Rev. 
Charles  W.  Griffin  is  pastor  of  the  Free  Will  Baptist 
Church  on  the  West  Side. 


THE  CHArELS. 

In  the  fall  of  1885,  the  First  Baptist  Church  of  the 
Island  began  the  erection  of  a chapel  at  the  Harbor  for 
the  accommodation  of  summer  visitors  of  all  evangelical 
denominations.  Said  church  do  not  need  it  for  their  own 
services,  and  they  are  entitled  to  much  credit  for  their 
liberality.  It  is  not  often  that  one  sect  builds  so  costly  an 
edifice  for  the  use  of  others.  Its  tower  and  architecture 
will  please  the  eyes  of  many  approaching  the  Island,  and 
its  inner  conveniences  it  is  hoped  will  be  grateful  to  those 
desiring  spiritual  as  well  as  physical  food  and  rest  on  Block 
Island.  The  existence  of  the  chapel  is  due,  in  a great 
measure,  to  the  energy  and  patience  of  pastor  Braithwaite, 
and  to  the  larger  hearted  friends  of  the  enterprise. 

In  the  summer  of  1887,  Messrs.  Nicholas  Ball  and 
B.  B.  Mitchell  donated  a site  for  an  Episcopal  Chapel, 
about  equally  distant  from  the  Ocean  View  Hotel  and 
the  Spring  House.  A beautiful  house  of  worship  was 
erected  here,  but  was  burned  before  it  was  ready  for 
occupancy. 


126 


THE  EPISCOPAL  CHAPEL. 


Largely  through  the  efforts  of  Mrs.  John  N.  Bofinger, 
of  St.  Louis,  who  was  ably  seconded  by  Dr.  George  E. 
Brewer,  Dr.  H.  H.  Curtis,  and  other  summer  visitors,  a 
beautiful  Episcopal  Chapel,  named  St.  Ann’s  by  the  Sea, 
was  built  in  1889,  on  the  hill  northeast  of  the  Spring 
House.  Regular  services  are  held  here  during  the  summer. 

THE  SIGNAL  STATION. 

This  has  more  than  met  the  expectations  of  many  who 
rejoiced  in  its  establishment.  The  books  of  Mr.  W.  J. 
Daily,  Sergeant  Signal  Corps,  in  1888,  show  that  during 
the  months  of  July,  August,  and  Sept,  of  1887  the 
receipts  for  private  dispatches  at  this  station  were  $869 > 
mostly  from  visitors.  In  the  meantime  a private  office 
was  operating  at  the  Ocean  View  Hotel,  a privilege 
which  others  can  enjoy  through  the  cable  by  negotiating 
with  the  Western  Union  Telegraph  Co. 

HOTELS  AND  BOARDING  PLACES. 

Eulogies  of  the  Island  as  a summer  resort  seem  quite 
superflous  as  one  considers  the  accommodations  there, — • 
houses  ready  to  receive  in  each  from  five  to  five  hundred  and 
fifty  visitors.  Ample  preparations  are  made  for  the  con- 
venience of  3000  at  any  one  time  in  the  summer  of  1888 
All  of  these  houses  have  splendid  views  of  the  ocean. 
The  many  new  and  elegant  buildings  recently  erected, 
the  cottages  which  will  soon  fringe  the  Island,  the  rapid 
communications  for  passengers  and  mails,  the  public  and 
private  telegraph  and  telephone  privileges  contemplated, 
and  the  electric  lights  will  soon  make  the  once  charming 
island  of  Calypso  seem  dismal  in  comparison. 


FISHERIES. 


127 


These  are  quite  modified  from  what  they  were.  Cod 
fishing  has  greatly  decreased,  while  sword,  mackerel, 
and  lobster  fishing  have  greatly  increased.  For  sword 
fishing  the  islanders  have  about  twelve  vessels  and  fifty 
men  who  sail  out  from  one  to  forty  miles  for  their  “game” 
which  they  market  principally  at  Providence  and  Boston. 
Their  annual  receipts  are  about  $12,000.  In  the  lobster 
fishing  fifteen  boats,  and  thirty  men,  and  one  thousand 
two  hundred  pots  are  engaged,  for  which  about  $10,500 
are  received.  Some  are  caught  eight  miles  from  the 
island,  in  deep  water.  The  mackerel  caught  average 
about  two  thousand  barrels  annually.  Pound  fishing  is 
carried  on  still,  but  less  extensively  than  formerly. 
Messrs.  Uriah  B.  Dodge,  and  Geo.  Jelly  are  the  princi- 
pal fish  brokers  of  the  island. 

THE  INLET. 

The  object  of  this  is  to  secure  an  ample  ebb  and  flow 
of  salt  water  between  the  ocean  and  the  Great  Pond  on 
the  west  side  of  the  island,  by  which  stagnation  of  the 
pond  will  be  prevented,  shell  fish  in  it  made  abundant, 
and  a harbor  secured.  To  accomplish  this  the  islanders 
have  made  vigorous  progress.  They  first  procured  control 
of  the  pond,  exclusive  of  the  state.  In  1887,  Apr.  19, 
they  voted  to  raise  $10,000  to  open  the  inlet.  The  survey 
was  made  by  Mr.  J,  Cotton,  of  Newport,  and  the  open- 
ing was  located  near  the  old  Breach  which  was  in  use  two 
hundred  years  ago.  See  page  75.  The  job  of  opening 
and  completing  the  inlet  was  awarded  to  S.  V.  R. 
Hendricks  who  stipulated  to  do  it  for  $8,450,  making  the 
width  twenty-five  feet  and  depth  sufficient  to  secure  the 
benefit  of  the  tide  and  a passage  for  vessels.  Work  was 
begun  in  the  early  autumn  of  1887,  and  is  progressing  in 
the  summer  of  1888. 


128 


THE  GOVERNMENT  HARBOR. 


It  is  believed  by  many  that  the  Great  Pond  will  thus  be- 
come a source  of  much  revenue  to  the  Island,  by  its 
shell  fisheries,  its  pleasure  sailing  — so  safe  from  winds, 
calms,  and  tides,  and  as  a harbor.  The  experiment  is 
enterprising,  hopeful,  and  commendable,  and  if  success- 
ful will  be  a benefit  to  the  Islanders  and  the.  public. 

THE  GOVERNMENT  HARBOR. 

This  has  done  excellent  service.  See  page  77.  Ex- 
tensive improvements  have  been  begun,  and  $20,000  ai'e 
being  expended.  W.  R.  Livermore,  Major  of  Engineers, 
U-  S.  A.,  in  his  report  for  1887,  states  that  $50,000  will 
be  required  to  complete  the  breakwater  and  basin  now 
begun.  He  also  reports  the  following  items  of  interest, 
especially  to  those  who  knew  the  Island  well  in  1870 : 

For  the  year  ending  Dec.  31,  1886,  received  at  the 
harbor  of  Block  Island,  coal,  about  five  thousand  three 
hundred  tons ; grain,  about  twelve  thousand  bushels ; 
lumber,  about  four  million  feet ; merchandise  exported 
and  imported,  fifteen  thousand  tons.  Arrivals  and  de- 
partures of  steamers  of  fifty  to  one  hundred  tons,  drawing 
three  to  ten  feet  of  water,  one  thousand  eight  hundred 
and  ninety ; sailing  vessels,  of  ten  to  two  hundred  tons, 
draught  from  two  to  six  feet  (about)  one  hundred  and 
sixteen  thousand. 

Dredging  of  sand  will  be  done  by  the  Government,  as 
at  its  other  harbors,  when  necessary. 

The  Range  Lights  of  the  harbor,  to  enable  vessels  to 
enter  at  night  safely,  are  under  the  care  of  Capt.  Uriah 
B.  Dodge. 


PILOTS. 


129 


The  Island  is  well  located  for  this  important  service, 
and  the  pilot  boat  from  it  has  cheered  the  heart  of  many 
a foreign  sailor.  Its  Pilot  Commissioner  is  Capt.  Darius 
B.  Dodge,  and  its  pilots  are  Wm.  Talbot  Dodge,  Capt. 
John  E.  Rose,  Capts.  Lemuel  Dodge,  James  M.  Dodge, 
Andrew  J.  Dodge,  and  Andrew  V.  Willis. 

THE  WATER  WORKS. 

This  improvement,  like  others,  places  Block  Island  in 
the  front  ranks  ot  progress.  Its  principals  are  Messrs. 
Frederick  A.  Rose,  and  Edward  S.  Payne,  natives  of  the 
Island.  The  works  were  begun  in  December,  1887,  by 
taking  water  from  the  Sands  Pond  to  supply  the  hotels 
and  houses  at  the  harbor.  Many  applications  were  made 
for  the  water  as  early  as  April,  1888,  and  many  were 
supplied  in  May. 

LIFE  SAVING  STATIONS. 

These  have  proved  themselves  to  be  of  value  to  the 
Island,  giving  employment  to  quite  a number,  and  doing 
good  service  in  rescuing  the  shipwi'ecked  sailors.  The 
one  at  the  harbor  has  a new  and  convenient  building,  at 
a cost  of  $5,000.00.  It  is  under  the  charge  of  Capt. 
D.  B.  Dodge,  with  a crew  of  seven  men. 

The  west  side  station  has  won  great  distinction  by  res- 
cuing a crew  from  a perishing  condition.  This  was  done 
by  Capt.  N.  D.  Ball,  and  his  crew,  A.  W.  Allen,  P.  A. 
Mott,  C.  H.  Mitchell,  Lewis  N.  Allen,  J.  A.  Mitchell, 
A.  C.  R.  Ball,  and  N.  H.  Dunn. 

WRECK  OF  THE  WILLIAM  H.  JORDAN. 

She  was  a three-masted  schooner,  laden  with  coal, 
bound  from  Baltimore  for  Bristol,  R.  I.  Her  voyage 


130 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


was  of  increasing  roughness,  until  she  reached  the  exceed- 
ingly dangerous  waters  between  Montauk  and  Block 
Island,  where  so  many  vessels  have  been  carried  ashore 
by  violent  winds  and  treacherous  tides.  The  weather 
was  so  thick  that  her  captain,  A.  R.  Haines,  of  Taunton, 
Mass.,  was  unable  to  see  land.  She  struck  amid  the 
boulders  about  2 a.  m.,  of  Jan.  2,  1888.  At  3.30  a.  m. 
she  was  discovered  by  John  A.  Mitchell,  while  patroling 
the  beach  of  the  west  side  life  saving  station.  Her  crew 
were  all  driven  into  the  fore-rigging  by  the  terrible  seas 
beating  over  her  deck,  while  she  was  pounding  on  the 
rocks.  He  struck  hisCoston  light  and  swung  it  over  his 
head  several  times  and  in  response  there  came  to  his  ears 
the  most  distressful  cries  for  help.  He  ran  about  a mile 
to  the  station  and  gave  the  sad  tidings.  Capt.  Ball  and 
his  crew  took  the  most  energetic  measures  to  rescue  the 
perishing.  The  surf  boat,  it  was  soon  found,  could  not 
approach  the  vessel  the  seas  were  so  high  and  violent. 
Then,  as  soon  as  possible,  the  life-saving  cannon  was 
planted,  and  a line  shot  over  the  vessel.  After  several 
shots,  one  fell  within  reach  of  the  men  in  the  rigging  and 
by  them  the  line  was  secured.  Meanwhile  many  had 
gathered  upon  the  shore  to  assist  in  saving  the  seven 
sailors  who  were  in  the  most  imminent  peril.  Beneath 
them  were  the  angry  seas  dashing  over  their  deck,  their 
vessel  rolling,  plunging,  breaking  up,  and  swinging  them 
violently  over  their  watery  graves,  while  the  roar  of  the 
surf  and  the  howling  and  screaming  of  winds  amid  the 
rigging  seemed  to  be  their  final  requiem.  To  remain 
there  a little  longer  was  ro  perish,  and  to  be  taken  ashore 
in  the  only  way  possible  was  extremely  perilous. 

Capt.  Ball  ran  his  breeches-buoy  out  to  them.  This  is 
a pair  of  canvass  pants  with  a waistband  of  cork,  to  pass 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


131 


beween  the  shore  and  vessel,  attached  to  a block  that 
moves  on  a hawser  connecting  vessel  and  shore.  Into 
this  buoy  one  put  himself,  and  was  so  fastened  in  that  he 
could  not  get  out.  Then,  by  a line  called  “whip” 
attached  he  was  hauled  ashore,  sometimes  “buried  twenty 
feet  deep  in  the  combing  breakers,  and  then  as  she  rolled 
seaward  the  hawser  would  tighten  with  a snap  that  chilled 
the  blood  of  those  on  shore,  and  the  breeches-buoy  and 
its  occup  ant  would  be  hurled  high  into  the  air  only  to 
fall  the  next  moment  into  another  sea.”  Thus  the  seven 
were  landed,  and  as  they  came  ashore  one  by  one,  there 
was  a sympathizing  Islander  to  lead  him  to  the  station, 
where  dry  clothes,  hot  coffee,  and  food  were  freely 
furnished. 

Within  ten  minutes  after  the  last  man  was  landed  the 
mizzenmast  snapped  asunder,  dashed  against  the  main- 
mast which  “ broke  like  a pipe  stem,”  and  both  fell  crash- 
ing’ through  the  rigging  where  a little  before  the  men  had 
been  clinging,  and  the  hull  went  to  pieces.  From  this 
we  may  infer  the  credit  due  to  patrolman  John  A.  Mitch- 
ell for  running"  one  mile  to  the  station  to  give  notice  of 
the  wreck.  Indeed,  Capt.  Ball  and  his  life-saving  crew, 
worked  wisely,  vigorously,  and  successfully,  assisted 
nobly  by  old  members  of  his  station,  by  those  of  the  har- 
bor station,  and  by  many  citizens. 

Said  Capt.  Haines  for  himself  and  his  rescued  crew: 
“ I do  not  believe  men  were  ever  in  a more  perilous  po- 
sition or  where  it  was  more  difficult  to  afford  assistance. 
Capt.  Ball  is  the  right  man  in  the  right  place.  He  did 
not  make  one  false  motion,  or  do  one  unnecessary  thing. 
We  did  not  consider  our  lives  worth  a picayune,  and  if 
men  ever  can  owe  everlasting  gratitude  toothers,  we  owe 
it  to  Capt.  Ball  and  the  noble  men  at  his  back.  May  God 
reward  them  ! ” See  page  80. 


132 


HISTORY  OF  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


THE  STEAMER  GEORGE  W.  DANIELSON. 

This  first  vessel  of  the  kind  built  by  the  Islanders  has 
a fine  record,  proving  herself  to  be  stanch  and  service- 
able. Under  the  command  of  her  judicious  captain, 
George  W.  Conley,  and  her  faithful  officers  and  crew, 
she  has  continued  her  regular  trips  between  the  Island, 
Newport,  and  Providence  for  eight  years  without  a 
serious  accident.  This  is  saying  much,  as  all  well  know 
who  are  acquainted  with  the  rough  seas  in  the  winter. 
Her  freights  and  passengers  have  been  steadily  increas- 
ing. (See  page  12.) 

TOE  INLET. 

The  Inlet  (see  page  127)  was  completed  in  1888,  and 
has  proved  of  great  benefit  in  preventing  the  water  of  the 
Great  Pond  from  becoming  stagnant.  It  has  not  afforded 
a permanent  available  channel  for  boats,  as  was  hoj>ed, 
the  depth  being  now  about  two  feet  at  low  tide,  but  the 
Town’s  Senator  and  Representative  hope  to  enlist  the  aid 
of  the  U.  S.  Government  in  making  a deep  and  perpetual 
passage.  They  have  induced  Congress  to  order  a pre- 
liminary survey  for  such  action  as  may  seem  best  to  the 
Engineer  Department  in  the  premises. 

RECENT  WRECKS. 

Three-mast  schooner  Lavina  Campbell  came  ashore 
Oct.  14,  1883.  Barkentine  Alexander  Campbell  filled 
and  sank  on  South-West  Ledge,  Nov.  27,  1888,  her 
crew  reaching  shore  in  safety.  Three-mast  schooner 
Pocahontas,  of  Taunton,  was  wrecked  Jan.  12,  1890. 
Four-mast  schooner  William  H.  Fredson  was  stranded 
May  9,  1890,  and  proved  a total  loss.  Bark  Lady  of  the 
Lake,  of  Llalifax,  from  New  York  to  Windsor,  Nova 
Scotia,  came  ashore  May  15,  1890. 

Off  Montauk  Point,  late  Sunday  night,  Feb.  19,  1893, 
a violent  west-southwest  gale  blew  away  the  sails  and 


RECENT  WRECKS. 


133 


stove  the  pilot  house  of  steamer  Panther,  Captain  Miller, 
towing  Barge  Reliance,  Captain  J.  F.  Remington,  from 
Philadelphia  with  1,450  tons  of  coal  for  Newburyport. 
The  gale  increased  to  a hurricane,  the  sea  ran  very  high, 
and  both  vessels  labored  heavily  until  8 a.  m.,  when  the 
hawser  parted,  the  Panther  sought  safety  in  the  lee  of 
Long  Island,  and  the  Reliance,  after  an  ineffectual  attempt 
to  ride  out  the  gale,  drove  ashore  about  noon  some  two 
hundred  yards  south  of  the  West  Side  Life-Saving  Station. 
In  the  intense  cold  of  a severe  February  snap,  with  the 
wind  averaging  more  than  sixty  miles  an  hour,  the 
Station  crew  tried  in  vain  to  launch  their  boat.  Next 
they  attempted  to  throw  a line  across  the  wreck,  but  six 
times  the  powder  burned  off  the  rope.  In  little  more  than 
half  an  hour  the  barge  went  to  pieces.  The  body  of  a 
woman  of  thirty-five  years  soon  washed  ashore.  It  was 
that  of  the  captain’s  wife,  and  was  soon  followed  by  his 
corpse.  An  Italian  and  a Portuguese  sailor  were  found 
dead  on  the  beach  soon  after,  and  after  several  days  the 
body  of  a third  seaman.  Everything  possible  was  done 
by  the  Island  people  to  aid  friends  of  the  dead  in  giving 
them  proper  burial  here  or  shipment  home,  thus  closing 
the  story  of  the  greatest  tragedy  from  shipwreck  known 
here  in  sixty  years.  The  Reliance  belonged  to  the 
Philadelphia  & Reading  Railroad,  and  was  valued  at 
825,000. 

DISTANCES  ABOUT  THE  ISLAND. 

The  distances,  by  the  road  usually  travelled  from  the 
wharf  south  of  the  Basin,  are  obtained  by  careful  meas- 
urements of  the  United  States  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey 
Map,  and  are  correct  as  can  be  conveniently  given  without 
using  fractions  smaller  than  eighths  of  a mile.  The  signs 
-j-  and  - — - are  added  to  secure  greater  accuracy.  On  ac- 
count, however,  of  the  extremely  irregular  topography  of 


134 


HISTORY  OP  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


the  Island,  the  merciful  man  who  is  merciful  to  his  horse 
should  estimate  each  distance  as  practically  about  one 
third  greater  than  is  shown  by  an  unfeeling  steel  tape  line. 


Miles. 

Post  Office  . . .4  — 

to  4+ 

Summer  Theatre  . 

• 4— 

U.  S.  Signal  Station  . 

-L 

Telegraph  Office  . . 

• 4 

Harbor  Chapel  . . . 

• i 

Harbor  Hill  .... 

. i+ 

Salisbury  Cottage  . . 

• t+ 

Harbor  Pond  . . . 

. 4 

New  Shoreham  Life-Saving 

Station  .... 

. 4 

Mill  Pond  .... 

■ % 

Crescent  Beach  . . 

. i 

Bath  Houses  . . . 

. i 

Magnetic  Iron  Ore  Works,  f 

Fort  Island  .... 

■ 14 

Trimm’s  Pond  . . 

. 14 

Jonathan  Ball’s  Wind 

Mill 

. 14 

The  Centre  .... 

. 14+ 

Town  Hall  and  Free 

Li- 

brary  

. If— 

Indian  Head  Neck 

• 14- 

Edward  F.  Searle’s  Man- 

sion 

• 2f 

Clay  Head  Bluffs  . . 

• 3f+ 

Chagum  Pond  . . . 

• 3f+ 

Briton’s  Rock  . . . 

• 4 + 

Grove  Point  .... 

• 44+ 

Sandy  Point  Light 

• 4f 

Littlefield’s  Wind  Mill 

• 14- 

ELEV. 

Feet. 

Harbor  Hill 40 

Sandy  Hill 74 

Clay  Head  Hill  . . . . 142 


Miles. 

Island  Cemetery  . . . 144- 
Beacon  Hill  Observatory,  24 — 

Sandy  Hill 3 — 

Grace’s  Point  ....  34- 
Grace’s  Cove  ....  34 — 
West  Beach  Fish  Pound,  34+ 
Salt  Pond  Inlet  . . . 3f — 

Fresh  Pond 24 — 

Free-Will  Baptist  Church,  3 + 
Horry’s  Cove  ....  34 — 
Block  Island  Life-Saving 

Station 34 

Tripler’s  Cottage  . . . 3f+ 

Barlow’s  Cottage  . . . 3f+ 

Black  Rock 31- 

Palatine  Graves  ...  34- 
Dickens’  Point  ....  44 — 
Episcopal  Chapel  . . . f — 

Mineral  Springs  . . . 4+ 

Pebbly  Beach  . . . .1  — 

Old  Harbor  Point . . . 14 — 

Pilot  Hill 14- 

Water  Works  Reservoir,  14 — - 
Mohegan  Bluffs  ...  If 

Fog  Signal If 

Miner’s  Cottage  . . . If 

Southeast  Point  ...  If 

South  Light If 

Yaill  Cottage  ....  If 
Indian  Cemetery  ...  2 

ATIONS. 

Feet. 

Hill  near  South  Light  . 146 

Pilot  Hill 182 

Beacon  Hill 211 


DISTANCES  AROUND  THE  ISLAND. 
Miles. 


Miles. 


On  the  shore 17  By  water,  ordinary  sail- 

By  water,  wind  favoring,  19  ing 20  to  25 


LENGTH  AND  WIDTH. 

Miles.  I Miles. 

Greatest  length  . . . 5.96  | Greatest  width  . . . 3.61 


DISTANCES  FROM  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


135 


DISTANCES  FROM  BLOCK  ISLAND 


BY  STEAMER  AND  RAILROAD. 

The  following  table  of  distances  from  the  landing  is 
believed  to  be  the  most  complete  and  accurate  ever 
issued,  as  in  its  preparation  the  author  has  been  aided 
by  the  general  passenger  agents  of  the  leading  railroad 
and  steamboat  lines  of  New  England.  Points  reached 
directly  by  steamer  from  Block  Island  are  given  in  larger 
type,  and  under  each  is  placed  the  names  of  places  con- 
veniently accessible  thereby. 


To 

Miles. 

Narragansett  Pier 

. . 17 

Wakefield  . . . . 

. . 20 

Kingston  . . . . 

. . 25 

Shannock  . . . . 

. . 30 

Wickford  Junction 

. . 32 

East  Greenwich  . . 

. . 38 

From  Kingston,  or 

Wick- 

ford  June.,  on  the  Shon 
Line  R.  R.,  good  connec- 
tions can  be  made  for 
New  York  or  Boston,  etc. 
Newport  . 

Bristol  Ferry 
Fall  River  . 

Somerset  . 

W arren  . . 

Dighton 
Myrick’s  . 

Bristol  . . 

Taunton 
Weir  Junction 
Middleboro 
Easton  . . 

New  Bedford 
Mansfield  . 

Bridgewater 
Foxboro 
Stoughton  . 

Campello  . 

Wareham  . 

Brockton  . 

Plymouth  . 

Walpole 
Onset  Junction 


£3 

34 

41 

47 

50 

50 

53 

54 
56 
56 
60 
67 
67 

67 

68 
70 

73 

74 

74 

75 

76 
76 
78 


To  Miles. 

Buzzard’s  Bay  ....  80 

Braintree 82 

Quincy 84 

Sandwich 87 

South  Framingham  . . 89 

Cottage  City 91 

Boston 92 

Falmouth 93 

Wood’s  Holl 97 

Barnstable 98 

Marlboro 98 

Yarmouth 101 

Concord  Junction  . . . 102 

Northboro 103 

Hyannis 104 

South  Dennis 106 

Harwich 110 

Clinton 112 

Lowell 117 

Chatham 118 

Nantucket 119 

Leominster  Centre  . . . 121 

Fitchburg 126 

Wellfleet 131 

Provincetown  ....  146 
Wickford,  via  Newport  . 37 

Wickford  Junction . . . 40 

Davisville 43 

East  Greenwich  ....  46 

Kingston 47 

Also  all  Shore  Line  R.  R. 
connections,  close. 

Providence 50 

Pawtucket 54 


136 


HISTORY  OR  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


To 

Central  Falls  . . . 

Yalley  Falls  . . . 

Lonsdale  .... 
Berkeley  .... 

Asliton 

Albion 

Manville  .... 

Hamlet 

Woonsocket  . . . 

Waterford  .... 
Blackstone  . . . 

Millville  .... 
Uxbridge  .... 
Whitins  .... 
Northbiidge  . . . 

Farnums  .... 
Saundersville  . . 

Wilkinsonville  . . 

Millbury  .... 
Worcester  .... 
Olneyville  .... 
Cranston  .... 
Knightsville  . 

Oak  Lawn  .... 

Pontiac 

Natick 

River  Point  . . . 

Arctic 

Centreville  . . . 

Quidnick  .... 
Anthony  .... 
Washington  . . 

Coventry  .... 

Summit 

Greene  

Dyerville  .... 

Manton 

Lymansville  . . 

Allendale  .... 
Centredale  .... 
Graystone  .... 
Smitlifield  .... 
Primrose  .... 
Oakland  .... 
Harrisville .... 
Pascoag  .... 
Cumberland  Mills  . 
Adamsdale  . . . 

Abbotts  Run  . . . 

Arnold’s  Mills  . . 

Diamond  Hill  . . . 


To  Miles. 

West  Wrentham  ...  66 

Franklin TO 

Watch  Hill 15 

Westerly 20 

Wood  River  Junction  . . 28 

Shannock 32 

Kingston 37 

Stonington 26 

Mystic 29 

New  London 35 

Groton 37 

Waterford 38 

East  Lyme 41 

South  Lyme 46 

Black  Hall 50 

Lyme 52 

Connecticut  River  ...  53 

Saybrook 54 

Westbrook. 57 

Grove  Beach 60 

Clinton 62 

Madison 65 

East  River 67 

Guilford 70 

Stony  Creek 74 

Branford 77 

New  Haven 86 

Bridgeport 103 

East  Norwalk  ....  117 

Stamford 126 

Greenwich 131 

Harlem  River  ....  155 

New  York 160 

Montville 41 

Norwich 48 

Lebanon 58 

South  Windham ....  61 

Willi  man  tic 65 

South  Coventry  ....  70 

Mansfield 73 

Tolland 79 

Stafford 85 

Monson 96 

Palmer 100 

Barrett’s  Junction  . . . 105 

Belcliertown 110 

Amherst 120 

Millers  Falls  . . . . . 135 

| Vernon 151 

| Brattleboro 156 

Essex 58 


Miles. 

. 55 

. 56 

. 57 

. 59 

. 60 

. 61 

. 63 

. 66 

. 66 

. 68 

. 68 

. 70 

. 75 

. 77 

. 81 

. 83 

. 85 

. 85 

. 88 

. 94 

. 52 

. 54 

. 55 

. 57 

. 58 

. 59 

. 61 

. 62 

. 62 

. 63 

. 64 

. 65 

. 68 

. 72 

. 74 

. 54 

. 54 

. 55 

. 56 

. 57 

. 60 

. 62 

. 64 

. 70 

. 71 

. 73 

. 57 

. 58 

. 61 

. 62 

. 64 


DISTANCES  FROM  BLOCK  ISLAND. 


137 


To 

Miles. 

To 

Miles. 

Deep  River  . . 

. 62 

Cheshire  . . . 

. . .102 

Goodspeed’s  . . 

. 66 

Plainville  . . . 

. . .113 

Higganum  . . . 

. 72 

A von  .... 

. . .123 

Middletown  . . 

. 81 

Collinsville  . . 

. . .125 

Wethersfield  . . 

. 92 

Granby  .... 

Hartford  . . . 

. 98 

Southampton . 

. . .154 

Wallingford  . . 

. 99 

H olyoke  . . . 

. . .157 

Meriden  . . . 

. 105 

Northampton 

. . . 159 

Berlin  .... 

. 112 

Stratford  . . . 

. . .106 

Hew  Britain  . . 

. 115 

Ansonia  . . . 

. . .119 

Westfield  . . . 

. 119 

IS!  augatuck  . . 

. . .130 

Windsor  Locks  . 

. 135 

Waterbury  . . 

. . .135 

Warehouse  Point 

. 136 

Torrington  . . 

Tliompsonville  . 

. 140 

Winsted  . . . 

. . .164 

Springfield  . . 

. 149 

MAILS,  JUNE  1 TO  OCTOBER  1,  1893. 

BY  STEAMER  G.  W.  DANIELSON. 

Close  at  7.25  a.  m.  Open  at  4.30  p.  m. 

JULY  5 TO  SEPTEMBER  12. 

BY  STEAMER  BLOCK  ISLAND. 

Close  at  1.15  p.  m.  Open  at  12.15  p.  m. 

SECRET  SOCIETIES. 

Atlantic  Lodge,  A.  F.  A.  M.,  and  Neptune  Lodge, 
I.  O.  O.  F.,  meet  at  their  respective  hails  on  Saturday 
evenings  at  eight  o’clock. 

Mohegan  Council,  United  Order  of  American  Me- 
chanics, meets  at  8 p.  m.,  Tuesdays. 

Columbus  Lodge,  Knights  of  Pythias,  meets  on 
Thursday  evenings  at  seven  o’clock  from  Jan.  1 to  July 
1,  and  at  half  past  seven  the  rest  of  the  year. 

THE  WHARF  REPAIRED. 

In  the  summer  of  1892  the  old  wharf  was  thoroughly 
repaired,  and  a plank  walk  laid  to  the  Bathing  Beach, 
two  improvements  greatly  appreciated  by  all. 

AVERAGE  TEMPERATURE. 

By  the  records  of  the  U.  S.  Signal  Station  established  in 
1881,  the  following  is  the  average  summer  temperature 
for  the  ten  years  ending  with  1891:  June,  62.3°;  July, 
68.1°;  Aug.,  67.8°;  September,  63.3°. 


OCEAN  VIEW 

noTr.i,. 

TSie  Palace  Hotel 
of  the  Famous  R.  I.  Seashore. 


A Romantic  Spot , fifteen  miles  at  Sea, 

[Magnificent  Scenery.  No  [Malaria. 
No  [Mosquitoes.  Cool  Ufiights. 

Fine  boating,  Fishing  and  Sailing. 
Electric  Bells  and  Lights.  Grand  Music  Hall, 

and  Fine  Orchestra,  and  Master  of  Ceremonies. 
Gas  and  Perfect  ‘Drainage. 

Table  Strictly  First  Class.  Hotel  Physician. 
Good  Livery,  Steam  Laundry,  Steam  Heat. 

Submarine  Cable  connects  the  Island  with 
the  main  land.  Office  in  Hotel. 


SEND  FOR 

ILLUSTRATED  HAND-BOOK. 

F=.  C.  CUNDHLL, 

East  Greenwicli,  R.  I,,  or  Ocean  View  Hotel, 

BLOCK  ISLAND,  R.  I. 


2 


THE  ADRIAN. 


BLOCK  ISLAND,  R.  I. 


“ The  Adrian  ” attracts  the  stranger  while  his  steamer 
is  some  distance  out  in  Block  Island  bay,  but  as  he  is 
brought  nearer  to  land  and  even  to  the  dock,  this  house 
attracts  him  with  much  stronger  power.  Its  style  of 
architecture,  its  pretty  location  on  a green  hill,  just  far 
enough  away  to  escape  the  dust  and  noise  from  main 
road,  yet  near  enough  to  witness  all  the  passing  sights, 
within  a minute’s  walk  of  post-office,  five  minutes’  walk  of 
steamboat  landing  or  telegraph  office,  near  stores.  Bap- 
tist and  Episcopal  Chapels  are  pleasing  features  to  the 
sojourners  on  Adrian  Block’s  sea-girt  isle. 

A home-like  air  seems  to  pervade  this  hotel  and  the  new- 
comer soon  feels  as  if  he  had  been  weeks  instead  of  days 
under  its  hospitable  roof.  Guests  receive  the  personal 
attention  of  the  owner,  who  is  proprietor.  The  table  is 
good,  drainage  perfect,  house  supplied  with  modern  con- 
veniences, prices  per  week  from  $10  to  $15,  reduction 
being  made  to  families  and  those  who  stay  the  season. 
This  house  is  open  in  June  and  September.  For  further 
particulars  address 

NATHAN  MOTT,  Proprietor. 


3 


Mrs.  c.  W.  WILLIS,  Proprietor  - Block  Island, 


4 


BLOCK  ISLAND,  R.  I. 


Its  location  is  charming.  The  north  side  and  east  end 
are  directly  on  the  foaming  beach,  and  one  can  sit  in  his 
room,  or  on  the  piazzas  and  see  and  hear  the  surf  be- 
neath. Stairs  connect  the  rear  piazzas  with  private  bath- 
houses owned  by  the  proprietor.  The  house  is  near  tire 
telegraph  station,  a barber’s  shop,  drug  stores,  dry  and 
fancy  goods  store,  several  stores  of  general  merchandise, 
and  the  post-office  is  within  two  minutes’  walk. 

The  rooms  are  large,  high  studded,  hard  finished, 
finely  furnished,  “ Bliss  Springs  ” and  hair  mattresses- 
Water  on  every  floor,  best  of  toilet  accommodations, 
bath  rooms  with  hot  and  cold,  fresh  and  sea  water. 
Piazzas  surround  the  main  building  on  the  first  and  sec- 
ond floors,  and  the  wide  halls  cross  each  other  at  right 
* 

angles  opening  on  the  piazzas.  All  the  rooms  have  views 
of  the  ocean  and  steamboat  landing.  Best  of  protections 
against  fire.  Rooms  heated  by  steam  on  chilly  days. 
Street  thoroughly  sprinkled.  From  the  high  observatory 
is  a grand  panorama  of  the  ocean,  shores  of  the  Island 
and  main  land.  Many  years’  experience  gives  the  pro- 
prietor confidence  that  her  past  record  is  ample  guarantee 
for  continued  patronage,  knowing  that  Surf  Hotel  has 
a location,  appointments,  and  convenience  of  access  un- 
surpassed by  any  hotel  on  the  Island.  Her  table  will  be 
kept  up  to  the  highest  standard  of  excellence,  and  noth- 
ing will  be  omitted  to  satisfy  the  most  fastidious. 

Terms  very  moderate,  with  reductions  previous  to 
July  1st  and  after  September  1st.*  Address, 

Mrs.  CHARLES  W.  WILLIS,  Proprietor , 

Block  Island,  R.  1. 


e 


Block  Istagd  Ste^irjbo^t  Co. 


BETWEEN 


PROVIDENCE 

AND 

BLOCK  ISLHND, 


Via  NEWPORT  AND  CONTINENTAL  LINE. 

Carrying  United  States  Mail. 


— 

THE  STANCH  STEAMER 

GEO.  W.  DANIELSON, 

(,1  YEARS  WITHOUT  AN  ACCIDENT.) 


CAPT.  CONLEY. 

Running  daily,  Sundays  excepted,  between  Block  Island 
and  Newport,  connecting  with  steamers  of  the  Conti- 
nental Line  to  Providence. 

Leave  Block  Island  at  7.30  a.  m.,  arriving  at  Newport 
in  time  to  connect  with  steamer  for  Providence. 

Passengers  for  Block  Island  can  take  the  steamer  at 
Providence,  arriving  at  Newport  at  12  m.,  in  time  to  con- 
nect with  steamer  for  Block  Island  at  1.30  p.  h. 

All  express  matter  for  Block  Island  will  be  shipped  by 
Adams  Express. 

All  Deposits  of  Freight  to  be  marked  “Block  Island, 
via  Continental  Line.” 


6 


T H B 


BLOCK  ISLAND,  R.  I. 


OPEN  FROM  JUNE  TO  OCTOBER. 


This  House  is  under  the  personal  supervision  of  the  pro- 
prietor, who  will  spare  no  pains  to  make  everything  agreeable 
for  his  guests.  It  has  accommodations  for  one  hundred  peo- 
ple, and  has  attained  a wide  reputation  and  popularity  as  a 
family  hotel. 

Both  the  main  house  and  its  recently  erected  annex  are 
provided  with  all  modern  improvements,  large  airy  rooms, 
superb  ventilation,  and  perfect  sanitary  arrangements. 

There  are  broad  verandas  around  the  houses  upon  which 
shade  and  the  sea  breezes  may  be  enjoyed  at  all  hours  of 
the  day. 

CUISINE. 

The  table  will  be  supplied  with  fresh  eggs,  milk,  butter, 
poultry,  and  vegetables  from  the  farm  of  the  proprietor.  A 
special  feature  will  be  the  fresh  fish  and  lobster  direct  from 
the  ocean. 

BATHING. 

The  Woonsocket  has  bath  houses  free  for  the  use  of  its 
guests,  less  than  a thousand  feet  distant  from  the  hotel,  with 
plank  walks  leading  to  them. 

DRIVING. 

At  the  hotel  stable  guests  may  have  their  horses  cared  for 
or  can  procure  others  for  driving. 

CRESCENT  BEACH. 

This  beach,  with  its  smooth  gradual  descent,  extends  for 
three  miles  in  a graceful  curve  from  the  Woonsocket  House  to 
Clay  Head  Bluffs.  In  safety,  convenience,  and  picturesque 
beauty,  it  is  not  surpassed  in  America. 

Carriage  at  the  arrival  of  all  boats  free  of  charge. 

Full  particulars  in  regard  to  rates,  routes,  etc.,  will  be 
gladly  furnished  on  application.  Address, 

A.  J.  ROSE,  - - Proprietor. 


7 


«M  z3kr 


CONNECTICUT  HOUSE, 

M.  M.  DAY,  Proprietor, 

block:  island,  r.  i. 


A few  modest  suggestions  as  to  a stopping-place  for  visitors 
on  the  Island  may  not  be  out  of  place.  The  Connecticut  House 
is  located  on  elevated  ground  just  far  enough  from  the  steamer 
landing  to  escape  the  noise  and  dust,  and  sufficiently  near  to 
afford  an  easy  and  pleasant  walk.  Especially  adapted  to  those 
seeking  quiet  and. rest.-  Here  one  will  find  all  the  home  com- 
forts— good  wholesome  food,  well  of  good  water,  nice  clean 
beds,  pleasant  company.  Its  position  overlooking  many  of  the 
other  hotels  upon  the  Island  commands  an"  extensive  view  of 
land  and  ocean  scenery. 

Passengers  are  met  at  the  wharf  by  representatives  of  the 
hotel,  who  look  after  the  baggage  and  attend  to  every  want  of 
the  guest.  It  is  an  old-established  house,  and  the  fact  that  the 
same  ones  are  here  year  after  year  speaks  volumes  for  its 
management. 

For  routes,  time  tables,  etc.,  apply  to  the  proprietor. 

E.  H.  Day,  Manager.  M.  M.  DAY,  Proprietor. 

8 


MASSASOIT 


• O 


Hair  Dressing 

Rooms  =:= 


Post  Office  Square. 

. . This  is  the  largest  and  best  furnished 
shop  on  the  Island,  running  four  chairs. 
Patrons  will  receive  prompt  attention  here. 

FIRST=CLASS  PATRONAGE 
SOLICITED.  . . 

Shaving  ° 15  cents. 

Hair  Cutting 25  ,, 

Pompadour  .......  35  M 


On 


Shampoo  . 

Sea  Foam  . . 

Hair  Singeing  . 


MILLIKIN  BROS 


PROPRIETORS. 


WM.  J.  MILLIKIN. 


EUG.  R.  MILLIKIN. 


CONNECTIONS 


OF 

Railroads 

AND 

Steamboats. 


All  the  railroads  that  enter  Boston  connect  there 
with  the  Old  Colony  to  Newport,  and  the  various 
roads  to  Providence  connect  with  Newport,  and 
thence  with  steamers  to  Block  Island. 

9 9 9 9 

Railroads  and  Sound  Steamers  from  New  York 
to  Providence  and  Newport  also  connect  with 
steamers  to  Block  Island. 

9 9 9 9 

Steamer’s  direct  from  Norwich  and  New  London, 
Providence  and  Newport,  to  Block  Island,  where 
time-tahles  are  kept  at  the  hotels. 


10 


Capt.  FRANCIS  WILLIS,  Proprietor. 


R.  G-  LEWIS,  Proprietor, 

block:  island,  r.  i. 


THE  FAMOUS  MID-OCEAN  SUMMER  RESORT. 


This  hotel,  erected  by  its  owner,  Mr.  Kay  G.  Lewis,  has  his 
special  supervision  and  many  advantages.  Within  a hundred 
feet  of  the  ocean  in  front,  overlooking  the  harbor,  steamers, 
yachts,  fishing  fleets,  hills,  and  shores  of  the  Island  and  main 
land,  it  is  only  from  one  to  three  minutes’  walk  from  the  post- 
office,  telegraph,  shops,  stores,  bathing  beach,  and  chapel.  It 
has  first-class  appointments  for  the  pleasure  of  irs  guests.  Gas, 
electric  bells,  lavatories,  etc..,  on  every  floor.  The  drainage  is 
perfect,  and  its  proprietor’s  interest  in  a large  farm  secures 
fresh  products  to.  supply  his  table  which  will  be  kept  up  to 
the  highest  standard.  Charges  moderate,  and  reduction  to 
those  who  come  early  and  stay  late. 

For  further  items  address  the  proprietor. 


12 


BLOCK  ISLAND 
HOUSE — 


Highest  Elevation  on  tbe  Island. 
View  Unsurpassed. 

Free  Carriages  at  al!  Boats. 


CAPT.  GEO.  W.  CONLEY,  Proprietor. 


Central  {"louse* 

HEAD  OF  BEACH  AVENUE. 

Terms  Reasonable.  Carriages  to 
every  Boat. 

Write  for  particulars  to 


RAY  S.  LITTLEFIELD. 


1 Card 


Duke  University  Libraries 


D01 278936- 


